What Does Your Bench Plane Stable Look Like?


brooklyngohardwood

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ChrisG: I see you have multiple planes in the 4 to 5 1/2 range. Do you have them set up for specialized tasks or it is more about just having backups?

 

My 3 size (MF 8 and SBUS) as well as my No. 4 and MF 9 are all pretty much setup the same.  The 9 and 4 are essentially duplicates and I got the SBUS because I love no 3 size planes but find they do not have enough knuckle clearance. The SBUS has plenty of clearance and so it makes for a really nice small smoother. I have it setup with 38 degree iron for a 50 degree included angle which is a nice all around angle.  On my BD smoothers I use the chipbreaker to prevent tearout so I don't really have a need for high angle blades on my BU planes or for high angle frogs etc...

 

The jack planes YES are all setup differently. The 5 1/4 is setup super coarse with something like a 4" radius camber.  My stanley 26 transitional jack is my main coarse plane and is setup with about a 14-16" radius camber, which I find is more than enough camber for prepping a from a rough sawn surface (I only use the 5 1/4 if there are some really wonky high areas or twist in boards).  My MF 14 is setup with a dead straight blade but I use it only for coarse work on edges.  Really handy for hogging an 1/8" of an edge.  MF 15 (5 1/2) is setup like a heavy smoother.  Its got enough camber to take a shaving that is a few thou thick, but not so much that it can't still take reasonable width really thin shaving with it. Love my MF 15...probably my favorite bench plane.  

 

My LA jack mostly just gets used for shooting so I keep it setup for that. I do sometimes pull it out for other stuff just because its a nice plane and fun to use, but I really prefer my MF 15 for most bench work.  LA jack is a GREAT shooter though, and it earns its keep doing that alone.

 

I have a few other jack planes that I don't really use, as they really just duplicate the above setups.

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It's all about preference. I like LN, and I don't see that changing. :)

I'm sure LV makes nice tools. :)

I've only got one chisel from them, and I know I want more. Woodworking is not a job for me, but it is an extremely calming hobby. The feeling from nice tools just makes it even better. Lie-Nielsen, if you're reading this, you've got me hooked!

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It's all about preference. I like LN, and I don't see that changing. :)

I'm sure LV makes nice tools. :)

 

Just as nice as LN. I have both brands sitting side by side. Both are top notch. I know everything I have is all recommended by Marc, but I made my decision on every tool I own based on Matt Wolfe. He is probably my biggest source for inspiration. I have exchanged emails as well as time on the phone, and he helped me out a lot. 

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To expand upon my LV vs LN point.
I've only been using hand tools at all for about 3-4 years now. I've been a woodworker for almost 25 years. Yeah, until recently everything had an electric motor in it or I wasn't really interested.

 

I say I've been a woodworker, but in truth most of my woodworking was cabinet building, some furniture, and a ton of built-ins. I've done tons. I've earned quite a few nice commissions on my work as well. But I want to be better. So, how do you improve? -> Learn to use hand tools.

 

Over the last 3-4 years I'm trying to become a "fine woodworker". I'll leave the definition of that term for another thread. Anyway, at first I bought equally from Lee Valley and Lie Nielsen. I think both are great companies. -High quality, quick deliver, what I think is reasonable pricing.

 

But what I've found over really the last year or so is that the LV planes and saws really seem to "fit" my hands. (Maybe I have Canadian hands?) This is not to say Lie Nielsen's stuff isn't awesome and to quote Freddie "sexy", because it absolutely is. However, when I have to reach for a smoother, I always went for my LV 4-1/2, when I needed a jointer, I went for the LV bevel up. I found the LV medium shoulder infinitely better than the LN. More and more I was only using the Lie Nielsen stuff in photos of my work, but not to produce the work.

 

So, as I told Graham, I'm applying the same principle I use in Golf. I won't carry a club in my bag that I wouldn't hit in a tournament. So, I'm not keeping tools in my shop when I prefer to use different ones. So, I've slowly let me LN planes and saws go. I've kept and at the same time kept and expanded my LV collection.

 

One thing that really is awesome about LN stuff is it holds it's value. You can sell it on ebay for about 75-95% of the price you paid for it.

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That's about it too. We've done this before :)

It really does come down to how the tool feels in our hands.

I really like the low angle LN planes a lot! Yeah, the LV has a little set screw for adjusting... I just tap mine with a plastic hammer. :)

For the shoulder being superior, it may be. I rarely use mine. When I need it, it does what I ask.

In the end, we buy what we like. No matter what the reasons are. I'm not blindly loyal to LN and I sure don't have a sponsorship, although I'd like one. :)

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Wow, this is a busy thread :)  Thanks again for all the replies and detailed info! This confirms some of my ideas about the best way to set up planes and it's so interesting to hear how others work.

 

Chet: Interesting about your preference for LV. Do you think it's the size of the rear tote? I do feel like the rear tote on my vintage Stanley's are a little small and can start to hurt my hand after long periods of use. I've noticed from pictures that the LV totes seem to be a different shape. I'd love to see a diagram of the shape of the totes from Stanley, LV, LN overlayed on each other.

 

Freddie: Are you going to the LN event in Brooklyn? That's right near my apt and I was planning on going on Saturday. I think Tools For Working Wood will be there as well. It will be my first change to see the LN stuff in real life (although I don't plan on buying anything yet).

 

I think the old tools are actually my favorite, both aesthetically and because of their history, but I do wonder how much better performance I'd get out of new premium planes. I'm definitely going to get a LV low angle Jack and I'll have a chance to try out the LN stuff this weekend.

 

Happy (almost) New Year everybody! I'm also home with kids—and too old to go out an party. :)

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I think you nailed it Chris.

The size of the rear tote and the shape fits my hands better with the LV.

The LN are a bit more curved, the LV are straighter and more squarish, if that makes any sense?

For me the LV's a better "fit".

 

Makes total sense. I guess I'll need to get my hands on both of them to see what fits best. Also, one could always make a custom tote I suppose—but maybe that's an extreme solution. :)

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Mel, I see a router plane in your collection. I just finished Marc's new book, "Hybrid Woodworking" and the router plane was included in his "Must Have Tool" chapter. How often do you and others use this plane? I'm also considering getting a large shoulder plane. I can see right now that Marc's book is going to cost me big time!

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Mel, I see a router plane in your collection. I just finished Marc's new book, "Hybrid Woodworking" and the router plane was included in his "Must Have Tool" chapter. How often do you and others use this plane? I'm also considering getting a large shoulder plane. I can see right now that Marc's book is going to cost me big time!

 

I use it all the time. I cut my dadoes by hand, so it is essential for me. I'll find a pic of my method on dadoes... But I basically measure for the top of my shelf and strike a line with a straight edge and deepen the mark with a marking knife. Then I put my actual shelf against the straight edge, then mark the bottom of my dado and strike and knife that line in. Then I saw the lines to my depth, and then it's all router plane from there. Works great. The router plane I have has a great depth stop, and allows you to advance the blade for a deeper cut while retaining the depth stop. 

 

I hope that helps. 

 

I find that my medium shoulder plane does what I want it to do. If I needed a large shoulder plane, I would consider the rabbet block plane instead.

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