pghmyn Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Annoying I can handle...remember Jim Carrey's most annoying sound in the world from Dumb and Dumber? That was annoying. But it was funny, too. That Sheldon dude just ain't funny. IMO, of course. Pills are good!I was just talking at work how I wanted that as my ring tone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Eric, since we went multiple directions on this thread, I figure any things game and not hijack. I will start the contemplation bench shortly since the current guild project is not my cup of tea. I looked at your journal and see that you used a plane with a curve to it. What is that called and did it help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 It's a convex sole block plane. https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/convex-sole-block-plane Did it help? Honestly, not really. It's quite small and the curve is kind of too severe for the gentle curve you're shaping in the bench seat. The ideal tool would have been a round spokeshave, but I only had a flat one at the time. Most of the shaping was done with the Arbortech, and I used a regular block plane, rasps and sanders to finish it off. I do have a round spokeshave now, and that would be the tool I'd recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Thanks Bud. I bought a comparable wheel from Saburrtooth last month at a show here in Houston. I like your idea using a pattern and router to get the shape and I do have a round spokeshave. Thanks again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Eric maybe I missed it somewhere but I don't think I see it on the thread: what kind of dye and topcoat did you go with? The bench looks beautiful. It's QSWO right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Thanks man. No, it's lacewood. I used GF dye stain...a mix of medium brown and cinammon. Can't remember the exact ratios anymore. Top coat Arm-R-Seal. I hate staining anything, but that color match problem left me no choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Wow, I've never even heard of lacewood - it's beautiful. I really like how the ray fleck pattern is more dense and uniform than QSWO - it's a cool contrast in that it gives kind of an "orderly" appearance to a piece whose design feels more "improv". Nice job. I don't like staining either...but when you have to, GF dye stain is so easy and nice to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Just like with QSWO, the fleck in lacewood will vary from board to board, and will be more intense and uniform the more perfectly quarter-sawn the board is. The fleck tends to be more "circular" than "linear," for lack of better terms...which gives it a more uniform look, generally. The board I built the bench out of just happened to close to perfect from end to end. Thanks again! It was a fun build and pretty fast and easy, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Eric, the template jig worked great. A little cantankerous wielding some that large against that small bit, but patience paid off. Thanks for the tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Right on! What species are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 I think it's about time for a shot of the Enchanter on the contemplation bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 The last trip to Louisiana, we cut down a cherry tree that had been dead for 6-7 years but was still standing. I took it to a local mill along with the walnut tree. I had a center section of one cherry log cut to 8/4, just for the bench. Unfortunately, it's full of ant/bug tunnels so it won't be a show piece. I've just been intrigued by the bench since Marc built it. Maybe a bunch of West Systems is in order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 I had a big knot on the inside of one of the rails of the bed I just finished, and I filled it with WS epoxy. It's a pretty good match on cherry. It's plasticy and ugly, and I'm not sure I'd want it on the show face of anything, but it does about as good a job as you could hope for as a filler on cherry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 I use WS for this purpose all the time with good success.. You can add some color to it which might help as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 29, 2014 Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 I have an inexpensive rasp from Rockler. I've looked back on other post and see that a few of you favor the Auriou and some the Liogier. On one post, someone had purchased hand cut rasp form Lee Valley. I checked on the LV and they don't indicate the coarseness (for lack of a better word). If I were to get one LV for this project, which would you suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 Coarseness is defined by "grain" when talking about rasps. Lower is coarser. They go from #3...The HOG, which will remove material like a chainsaw, up to like #15 or something in the modeler's rasps. I think they recommend starting with a 10" 9 grain or something in that ballpark. It's coarse enough to remove material quickly without leaving super-deep scratches. That's where I started...and I was addicted immediately. Think I have almost a dozen Auriou rasps and rifflers now. I love using them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Coarseness is defined by "grain" when talking about rasps. Lower is coarser. They go from #3...The HOG, which will remove material like a chainsaw, up to like #15 or something in the modeler's rasps. I think they recommend starting with a 10" 9 grain or something in that ballpark. It's coarse enough to remove material quickly without leaving super-deep scratches. That's where I started...and I was addicted immediately. Think I have almost a dozen Auriou rasps and rifflers now. I love using them. Eric do you mind running down a quick inventory of which rasps/rifflers you have and which you use the most? I bought a 9 grain auriou rasp when I was making a desk with cabriole legs, and I absolutely fell in love with it. Not sure where I would go from here though. I'd like to get involved with the maloof rocker guild build and am starting to re-build my tool wish list after Christmas buying season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 10" 5gr 10" 9gr 10" 11gr 7" 13gr 6" 15gr 6" rat tail 13gr 7" knife/half round riffler 7" thumb/laurel riffler HOG on LN back order Several others on my wish list...guess I don't have a dozen just yet. These things are addictive though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Coarseness is defined by "grain" when talking about rasps. Lower is coarser. They go from #3...The HOG, which will remove material like a chainsaw, up to like #15 or something in the modeler's rasps. I think they recommend starting with a 10" 9 grain or something in that ballpark. It's coarse enough to remove material quickly without leaving super-deep scratches. That's where I started...and I was addicted immediately. Think I have almost a dozen Auriou rasps and rifflers now. I love using them. So, having the assortment that you have, would YOU recommend the 10" 9 grain as a starter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 That was the first one I bought, and yes I think it's a good place to start. The second one would probably be a modeller's...7" 13gr would be good for more intricate work. Be aware they come in right and left handed models... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 I actually thought you were jackin wit me about the RH/LH so I looked it up. I'll be damned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodworking_Hobby Posted April 12, 2022 Report Share Posted April 12, 2022 On 12/8/2014 at 7:51 PM, Coop said: Thanks Bud. I bought a comparable wheel from Saburrtooth last month at a show here in Houston. I like your idea using a pattern and router to get the shape and I do have a round spokeshave. Thanks again for your help. I did a search of the site and did not find many posts on power carving or Saburrtooth power carving bits. I was interested to see if anyone had used them with any success? I wanted to make some kitchen utensils, nothing too fancy. From what I have found I think I can cut out the general shapes with my bandsaw and then could use something like these bits to get me down to the final shape. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 @Woodworking_Hobby, if you can't fibd Saburrtooth, try Kutzall brand. They have a nice line of grinder disks and burrs for powered wood carving. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 I have used these burrs to do simple "carving". They are effective wood removers. I've used the cylinder shapes, never the balls or round nose bits. If you are going to use a Dremel, then I think their flexible shaft accessory is useful to have for this. I wish the Dremel motors were reversible, but alas, they are not. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodworking_Hobby Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 9 hours ago, Mark J said: I have used these burrs to do simple "carving". They are effective wood removers. I've used the cylinder shapes, never the balls or round nose bits. If you are going to use a Dremel, then I think their flexible shaft accessory is useful to have for this. I wish the Dremel motors were reversible, but alas, they are not. I will have to try these out! I looked at their web site and it actually reminded my I have their wood rasps and I use them to round over my tenons and they work great! If the power carvers work as good as the hand rasp I would imagine these do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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