Shane Jimerfield Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 I'm soliciting opinions on this saw that is for sale. Seems like a good deal to me, but thought I'd get more input from this virtual brain trust. http://eugene.craigslist.org/tls/4522493023.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Jimerfield Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Also, am I going to be able to install a riving knife on this thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 I doubt a riving knife would be available to fit a saw that old. Looks like it was restored very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjeff70 Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 He replaced the motor but I guess he's throwing in the original Baldor 3 phase, along with the original fence. Amazing that it still works when you consider how long it might have ran at the school. Potentially, all of the nonelectrical components have been worked to death. You'd pay less and it would be a much finer machine if it were all original and owned by a hobby woodworker. He shouldn't have much trouble selling it since most people are drawn toward appearances rather than what's on the inside. The reason people buy these older machines is because of what's on the inside. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 ==>install a riving knife on this thing? I'm sure there's a thread, because I posted a link at one point. Bob Ross makes an aftermarket riving knife. I had one on my old PM and it worked fine. You've got to contact him for the PM65: -- it's about $100 bucks. ==>Seems like a good deal to me I've used the PM66 (built like a tank), but not the PM65... There are forums on vintage saws, that may be your best bet... As mentioned above, it looks like he did a good restore job, but you're going to have to kick the tires to be sure: test the slop in the trunnion, check run-out, etc. The vintage saw sites will give you a checklist... However, If you read his renovation list, it's mostly electrics/cosmesis... I didn't see bearings, arbor seat, etc... Those aren't expensive, but a bit of a pain in the ass --- so if there's too much slop you can negotiate a few hundred and just replace them yourself. It's a little strange to go Leeson -- after all, if you're going to all that effort to restore the saw, why not spend the extra $100 and go Baldor? But certainly not something to worry about -- Leeson makes a good motor ---- BUT I'd check the service class -- there's 3hp and than there's 3HP. He could have shaved an additional $100 with a lower service class motor. BTW, the 5HP 3p motor weighs about 245lbs -- it's a beast. The overall price is probably a starting point -- I certainly wouldn't pay $2K unless he replaced the bearings, polished the arbor/shaft assembly, etc -- and included a 5HP Baldor... Then you would be getting an as-new saw... <edit> Must have had a brain aneurism, It's a left-tilt saw, not a right-tilt as previously stated... Either that or the couple of beers before dinner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 I've had nothing but good luck with machines from schools. Looks like a left tilt to me. If it's as good as I expect it to be, it's not a bad buy. Not a great buy, but a good buy, if it checks out to be ready to go right to work without having to fiddle around with it. If it was on this coast, I would buy it myself. Check for wear in the table top slots. I have seen more than one saw that was used with a miter gauge a lot in one spot, and the slot was enlarged there. That would be a deal breaker for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Yeah, no mention of bearings and mechanicals is a red flag. The lube in sealed bearings only lasts about 5-10 years, they're not expensive but replacing them requires a complete tear-down. I'm assuming anyone who went through the effort he did would do this as a matter of course but it wouldn't hurt to ask. And be sure to give the worm gears and the bushings on the height and tilt shafts a good look as well as the corresponding teeth on the arbor assembly. Any play in either adjustment or wobble in the shafts is a great big red flag. There's no fixing these parts and no replacements available unless you maybe own a foundry and a machine shop(DAMHIKT). Yeah, you can live with it just like adjusting a hand plane but for this kind of $ you should be getting a top-notch machine with no issues. Even if it's in absolute NOS condition, I think the price is a bit high. It's not even in a factory color, fercrissakes. What was he thinking? My thoughts, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Go see it! Go over the internals throughly with the owner, Bring a straight edge and a square, ruler and $1500. in your vehicle somewhere! Check the flatness, the accuracy of the fence. Plan on spending an hour or two checking every inch you can think of! if it feels good, do it.... If you have even the slightest doubt... Bail! Not going and looking, will bug you for days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 ==>$1500 Yea, that feels about right... If he didn't touch the bearings/arbor/etc, I'd ask him why the Hell not -- he already had the thing apart... It's not a technically difficult job, but it's hours of work now that the saw is put back together... As already mentioned, if the trunnion itself has issues, you ain't fixing that. ==>It's not even in a factory color, fercrissakes 1921 - 1959 - Gray / Grey 1959 - 1969 - Vista / Pea Green 1970 - 1981 - Evergreen / Metallic Green 1982 - 1993 - Metallic Gold 1 1994 - 1995 - Metallic Gold 2 1996 - Pres - Mustard Yellow So.... Let's see, saw built in 1963 - Pea Green? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotscott Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Also, am I going to be able to install a riving knife on this thing? Doubtful. You might be able to design something yourself, but AFAIK, the BORK won't fit it. It's best to check with Bob Ross, as Triple H (hhh) suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BorkBob Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Did anybody else question the price? It's a neat looking old saw but I wouldn't pay over $800 for it if it was cherry. Based on what info I could find, the BORK will not work. I will follow up with Shane via email. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Don't doubt that it's a good saw. May need a bearing or two but it's probably solid but I think it's too much money. Personally I'd be thinking many hundred cheaper. I searched craigs list for 2 years and saw many 'deals' like this one but settled on a new Grizzly with a warranty, cheaper than I could have bought the used Powermatics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.