wtnhighlander Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 The reason I wanted a spindle sander is to do inside curves, which I can't do on my belt/disk combo. The Ridgid seems the most versatile tool available in my price range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 The reason I wanted a spindle sander is to do inside curves, which I can't do on my belt/disk combo. The Ridgid seems the most versatile tool available in my price range. This ^^^ Ok round two ... Worked perfectly!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDave Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Awesome... have fun with it today... but as Steve said watch you fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Awesome... have fun with it today... but as Steve said watch you fingers. Ya I can only imagine how bad that's gonna hurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 It's a miniature version of motorcycle wreck road rash ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 So what's the secret to stop this? 2 or 3 passes and its up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Did you skip using the washer under the nut? Tightening the nut should expand the drum. Maybe scuffing the rubber a little, warming it up and tightening the nut should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Just make sure the rubber is free of dust and the inside of the sleeve as well. I have the Craftsman spindle sander with the MDF table. I have a 1/2 nut on the top of the spindle shaft that i tighten with a wrench. You have to give it a pretty good snug with a wrench till the sleeve stops moving on the rubber. The object is to compress the rubber down to swell it in the sanding sleeve. Not sure you getting the torque on that with the cheep knob thing. I purchase all my sleeves here https://www.woodworkingshop.com/search.aspx?q=spindlesander+ -Ace- Enjoy the tool, this will take your woodworking up a notch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cochese Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 This is what all those washers are for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Did you skip using the washer under the nut? Tightening the nut should expand the drum. Maybe scuffing the rubber a little, warming it up and tightening the nut should do the trick. Yes I got the wash there. The directions said snug and not super tight. So I didn't crank down but maybe I do now knowing this. Just make sure the rubber is free of dust and the inside of the sleeve as well. I have the Craftsman spindle sander with the MDF table. I have a 1/2 nut on the top of the spindle shaft that i tighten with a wrench. You have to give it a pretty good snug with a wrench till the sleeve stops moving on the rubber. The object is to compress the rubber down to swell it in the sanding sleeve. Not sure you getting the torque on that with the cheep knob thing. I purchase all my sleeves here https://www.woodworkingshop.com/search.aspx?q=spindlesander+ -Ace- Enjoy the tool, this will take your woodworking up a notch! Ya doesn't sound like I am getting the torque. This is what all those washers are for. I got it on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstroDave Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Yes you definitely need to crank it down but not overly tight. Mine did that and then with another turn or so it was fine. Oh and the belt sander can be temperamental as far as the up/down movement of the belt. Be careful not to over loosen the nut on the belt sander as it will come out and it's a pain to get back in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Yes you definitely need to crank it down but not overly tight. Mine did that and then with another turn or so it was fine. Oh and the belt sander can be temperamental as far as the up/down movement of the belt. Be careful not to over loosen the nut on the belt sander as it will come out and it's a pain to get back in... Ok thanks! I will definitely keep that mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaneAndDestroy Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 I just picked one of these up as well, great tool for the price. It's definitely no high end machine, but you can't beat it for the money. I got one to see how much an oscillator would affect my workflow before I decided if I wanted a cast iron quality version, or if the simple rigid type would do the trick for me. The dust collection isn't the greatest when using the belt, I'll warn you. I used a Y on the port and ran another collection hood on the top of the table where the belt wants to fling the dust. Before that I was like an MDF snowman... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 It lasted about 4-5 years in my shop ! I was pushing it real hard 9- 10 hours a day on a job many days in a row, burned it up, bought another and finished the job w a new one. Saved the carcass for parts ! Curious why you bought a new one, I thought the Rigid stuff all had lifetime warranties? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentEvil Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I'm planning on going to pick one of these up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponderingturtle Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 take the knob to an hardware store, get a bolt that will fit it and a nut that will fit the bolt. run the bolt in to the knob and the threads down the stem. just see if can clean up the threads on each a bit and it may work fine. It sounded like it is reverse threaded and you have to have a very good hardware store if it stocks a good selection of left handed bolts and nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I'm going to thread Jack here for a second. I understand that oscillating is a cool word we all like to use but what value does an oscillating spindle sander have over chucking up a drum in a drill press, attaching a ply base to bury the drum in and going to town? I've seen the specs on some drill presses that go up to router bit speeds. I've been toying with the idea of buying both a drill press and this sander. It seems to me that one could perform both functions with the exception of the belt feature of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 It uses the whole drum (or at least a lot more of it) rather than sanding only on one section of it, which wears the paper out faster. It reduces the risk of burning, and sands cleaner and faster because it's more of a "random" motion, for lack of a better word...as opposed to sanding the same straight lines over and over again. Same concept of a hand-stitched rasp opposed to a machined one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 No burning of the endgrain, paper tends not to clog, you typically have good dust collection with a stationary oscillating spindle sander ("OSS"). With non oscillating, you can get slight grooves in the endgrain from paper clogging. Been there done that with a drill-press. Sucks when sanding through the grits changing drums on drill-press. You have to rig up a wood bed for the top of the drill-press. Counter sink a hole for the drum to fit down below the surface. Just not worth it. spend a $50.00 get a nice used bench-top OSS. I use my OSS all the time. It's nice to have it ready to use with no set-up like you would for a drill press. Hey man....you can find OSS all day long on Craigslist. It's a one trick pony, but its it's sure nice to have. -Ace- All I have ever needed. Here is a pic like my sander.......THIS IS A PIC FROM THE INTERNET NOT MY SHOP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I pushed it way past it's limits so I knew I killed it. Not gonna try to waste my time trying to convince them to replace it. Don't think the warranty lasts that long on bench top tools, maybe just the cordless stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I pushed it way past it's limits so I knew I killed it. Not gonna try to waste my time trying to convince them to replace it. Don't think the warranty lasts that long on bench top tools, maybe just the cordless stuff. My pamphlet says lifetime so I'm gonna hold them to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Is there a " professional use " exemption ? If it dies under home use hold them to it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I'm going to thread Jack here for a second. I understand that oscillating is a cool word we all like to use but what value does an oscillating spindle sander have over chucking up a drum in a drill press, attaching a ply base to bury the drum in and going to town? I've seen the specs on some drill presses that go up to router bit speeds. I've been toying with the idea of buying both a drill press and this sander. It seems to me that one could perform both functions with the exception of the belt feature of course. Just as everyone else said. Better sanding, using more of the paper, less heat build up, no linear sanding marks etc. You don't want to put lateral pressure on the head of your drill press, it can introduce a fair amount of runout. Also you don't wanna spin the sanding as fast as possible unless you're trying to char your workpiece and chew through paper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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