Tom King Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 I missed the question about the square. Test it both ways on a straight edge. If I buy a framing square in Home Depot, I carry a sharp pencil, and go find a good sheet of plywood in the racks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 If you're going to do a lot of work a Stanley #7 or a wooden try plane would be good. I don't do loads of stock prep by hand but the thought of using a really heavy metal plane to do so makes me sweat just thinking about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Capwn Posted January 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Picked up a length of aluminum angle iron and just need to chop it in half and add some contrast, and I should be in business. @Tom King - Ok, good to know. I tend or over-analyze things. I suppose that if you draw two lines, you can determine if there is an error by seeing variance between those two lines. This is what happens when you don't pay attention in math class, you forget basic geometry. @G S Haydon - Yeah, I am contemplating that. Honestly, running a 48"x8.5"x2" repeatedly over a bench-top jointer is more exhausting than just tossing that same piece on a bench and using the No. 5. Ideally, I'd like to remove the bench-top jointer from my work flow, if possible. The big question is: Do I need a No. 7 if I am using a powered thickness planer? Will the No. 5 get the surface "good enough" to provide a reference surface for the planer? I currently have no intentions of fully milling stock by hand; P90X Amish Edition is not my goal. However, I have enjoyed using the hand planes to true up a face to send through the thickness planer. I will probably enjoy it more once I have a workbench that is able to properly hold the material. Ideally, I'd like the following workflow: Identify twist and high/low spots on the face of a board. Hand plane using the No.5 to eliminate it. Send it through the planer, cleaning up the opposing face. Flip the board over and use the planer on the original face. At this point, both faces should be flat and parallel to each other. Either use a hand plane, or table saw jig to joint one edge. Flip the piece and joint the opposing edge with the table saw. So for step 3, I could see a No. 7 being useful since it will be able to true up long edges. However, since I have other alternatives at the moment, I am not sure if it is a need? However, I was so wrong about the No. 4/5, that I can freely admit I "know nothing John Snow". From what I have read, at least according to Chris Schwarz is that you get it close with the No. 5, plane it completely true with the No. 7, and then finish for ooh/ahh factor with the No. 4. Do others use the No. 7 after running through a powered planer or jointer? Unrelated: Router plane is such a fun gadget; sure, it isn't as quick as the power tool equivalent, but you can reeeeeaaallly dial things in. Cut some shelf support material and then cleaned up the depth of the rabbets to exact depth. Neato burrito. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 24 minutes ago, Al Capwn said: Identify twist and high/low spots on the face of a board. Hand plane using the No.5 to eliminate it. In my experience, when jointing with hand planes, working on one side only will only work when you're 100% sure that the opposite side is already flat. Say after an unsuccessful resawing of a flat board. If that is not true, you will need to hand plane sections on both sides, re-assessing and alternating sides all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebelk Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 On 1/4/2016 at 0:09 PM, Immortan D said: In my experience, when jointing with hand planes, working on one side only will only work when you're 100% sure that the opposite side is already flat. Say after an unsuccessful resawing of a flat board. If that is not true, you will need to hand plane sections on both sides, re-assessing and alternating sides all the time. If this were true, how would you ever flatten rough lumber? You only need the board to sit on your workbench without rocking - then you can flatten the top side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 1 hour ago, nebelk said: If this were true, how would you ever flatten rough lumber? You only need the board to sit on your workbench without rocking - then you can flatten the top side. So you need to work with your hand planes on both sides... exactly what I said.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I've been reading "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker" (what a great Christmas gift!). It is an account of how they did things around 1839. They pretty much do it in the same way I do on one side. Start with a fore plane (the modern one would be a jack plane, or a #5 Stanley), they then move to a try plane (which would be a jointer or a #7 or #8). That gets the board flat enough for work. That is how I do it to prep one side for the planer (though not as well...lol). I have winding sticks and the edge of the plane makes a good straight edge. Back then they used wood planes so I put in the (arguably) modern versions. I have also seen older smoothers (wood body) with the mouth opened up from truing it over and over, have the blade ground with a camber (radius) in it to use as a scrub plane (for really coarse work). I believe a Fore/Jack plane blade is supposed to be cambered too (I would not call that a rule, more of a common practice) but with a larger radius. Some just bevel or round the corners of the blade. One thing to remember, is if you are putting it through a (thickness) planer, all you need to do is improve the surface to the point that it is OK for that. You have to take any twist out of it, but when you cut the stock to length, a bit of care can ease that process (I try to make the smallest parts from the "worst" wood). It only has to be flat enough to be stable while riding over the planer bed, and that is a pretty big surface. As long as you get any major cupping, bowing and twist out, the surface should (thickness) plane nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebelk Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 1 hour ago, Immortan D said: So you need to work with your hand planes on both sides... exactly what I said.... Sorry, I misunderstand your first post. My bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I vote for Graham Hayden do a video on stock prep. Perhaps both narrow and wide stock. Only a suggestion Graham...lol. I would be willing to say a bunch of other folks would agree with me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Shannon's are no good? ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Shannon's are no good? ? They're great, but Graham works at hyper-speed! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim DaddyO Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 3 hours ago, C Shaffer said: Shannon's are no good? ? Of course they are! But more is gooder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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