Gunther15 Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I am new to filling knots in table tops. Generally I just use clear wood and work around the knots. However I did just get some air dried shingle oak that is riddled with small knots (smaller than I diameter of a pencil) it is some beautiful wood and I am going to make a table top from it. I have heard good things of the West System Epoxy but I was wondering if this was the best to use and if so what all do I need to order. I have been looking on Amazon and it looks like I can get the 105 resin but I didn't know which hardener I needed to go along with it. I was also curious if anyone knew of and system that might be cheaper. $100 just seems like a lot to drop on epoxy. And insight that could be given would be appreciated. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I have picked up the Devcon epoxy kits of 2 small bottles at my local hardware store and had good luck with it. http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-Epoxy-4-25-Ounce-Bottles/dp/B005K091ZU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I'm gonna assume your just filling knots here and then apply a stain and topcoat? I use the 2 part epoxy from the box store. Nothing fancy to filling knots. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 A piece of tape over the bottom side keeps the epoxy from running out. Filling holes in 2 or more pours works better sometimes. Wave a torch cautiously over bubbles to get them to pop . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I use West.. 105 resin and 205/206 hardener. The 206 is considered fast and the 205 is considered slow. Frankly, neither are fast Be sure to get the pump kit as well. Steve is correct, tape the bottom. Also, have a torch or heat gun at hand to take care of the bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I use West 105/206. If you want a cheaper option for West epoxy you might try a repair kit. They are not as good a value as the pumps but if you don't foresee using a lot $30 is easier to justify. Since filling knots is non-structural I don't see why a hardware store two part epoxy won't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Hotze Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Has anyone used wood stain after these? I have a decent knot to fill and plan on using clear epoxy but am going to stain with general finishes candlelite gel stain. I imagine the epoxy won't take the color at all after cured? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 You can add color to the epoxy. Not sure what is compatible so do some,research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Trans-Tint dyes work well in the WS epoxy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Woodcraft sells some powder tints for resin. I think the brand is stickfast. I just use the black one and it works great. A tiny amount smaller then a pencil erraser is enough for a knot bigger around then a silver dollar. Regular 2 part epoxy from home depot is all I used. Works extremely well with a heat gun. I won't go back to knot filling without a heat gun anymore. Not only can you fill even deep knots in one go with a heat gun but it also makes the epoxy looser so it fills more cracks and the black tint even blacker. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Be careful not to over extend yourself, trying to fill many small knots with one batch of 5-minute epoxy. It stiffens up pretty quick, especially in warm weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 The little bottles of Locktite epoxy that Steve and minorhero mentioned make the most sense here without the initial cost of setup for West. I use a lot of West Systems, but have used the Locktite more than a few times when I'm somewhere that I don't have all my gear with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I go simple. I buy the two part epoxy form the dollar store, and add general finishes dye to it when I mix it. Works great. Often the dollar store epoxy is lepage or other brands the big box sells for 7 or 8 dollars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Hotze Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 So I was at this stage in finishing an oak table top and decided to be cheap so I bought the 2-part epoxy resin from Lowes, basically 5-minute epoxy. I wanted to dye it black to match the knots but they didn't have the dye. So I tried a little dot of black acrylic craft paint. Filled a knot and let it settle, cut it off scraped with a cabinet scraper and put a coat of gel stain over to see how it looked and it worked perfectly. In case you want to go the cheap route like me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk T Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 I have used that Devcon epoxy kit for many years. Useful to know about the paint to color the knot hole. I have used walnut filler in small open knots then after sanding it flush I cut the grain pattern back into the surface with an Xacto knife and filled it with oak filler . This prevented a solid color spot that drew the eye to the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Be very careful what you color the epoxy with. Just a bit too much of that craft paint will cause it to cure as a stiff rubber, rather than hard plastic. Don't ask me how I know ... I prefer to suspend dry pigment powders in it, instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Hotze Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Thanks for the heads up highlander. I used the paint out of lack of dye so it won't be a forever thing. I was wondering on the chemical side of the house if I was messing with anything adding it but it seems that the smallest drop I can get out of it does the trick.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da Hammer Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 This has been very helpful for a newbie thanks for all of the discussion on using epoxy. Have used on boats but not wood, as always lots of good info in here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Graphite powder works great to tint epoxy from slightly grey to a deep black depending on how much is used. Graphite powder can be had cheaply from pretty much any art store. It's not my project just I would not have used paint to tint it. The chemical junkie in me wonders what you did to the actual strength of the epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Hotze Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Yea Brendon I wondered the same but did two test knots with a tiny bit of paint and one with a bit more and both cured in the same time as without paint and cut, scraped and stained just fine so it's good enough for government work.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Hotze Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 Just did a long crackly knot with the technique before and the craft paint does make it a little crystal like but it stays in the knots well after scraping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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