Fenced in


collinb

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What model? I'll look it up

There is this one

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5552914641.html

If I replace those stamped wings with something else and/or build it into a table ...

It's more modern. 

Still ... I can't get past that it is really the same functional design as mine. Is that not so?

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17 minutes ago, collinb said:

What model? I'll look it up

There is this one

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5552914641.html

If I replace those stamped wings with something else and/or build it into a table ...

It's more modern. 

Still ... I can't get past that it is really the same functional design as mine. Is that not so?

That's pretty overpriced.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206

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What model? I'll look it up

There is this one

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5552914641.html

If I replace those stamped wings with something else and/or build it into a table ...

It's more modern. 

Still ... I can't get past that it is really the same functional design as mine. Is that not so?

That's pretty overpriced.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206

CL is a garage sale. Always negotiable.

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk

This might also be nice.

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5556143623.html

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I probably would pay Maybe $200 for that table saw, at least buying new you have a warranty and a brand new saw.  I bought a used ridgid last january, motor crapped out 6 months later.  Was gonna cost more to replace or fix the motor than what I paid for the ts or what it was worth, said screw it and bought a brand new saw, happy with my decision.

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I just sold that model Ridgid contractor saw. I also wanted $450.00 for mine (EBay), but a guy called me and his additude  was so appealing that I sold it for $ 300.00. I take very good care of my tools and mine was in excellent shape. Mine was a 2424 model and I had it for many years. If Collin can get $300.00 for what he has now, he is was ahead of the game as far as upgrading to a more powerful, safer, and precise tool. I went extreme from that saw to a SAWSTOP and I smile every time I spool it up. Not advocating that Collin buys a SAWSTOP, but as others have said, if your equipment scares you then you should take up another hobby or get decent tools. I'm relieved that some of the vitriol is being neutralized......:D    After looking further mine was in much better condition and had the factory wheeled dolly installed. Ridgid, in my opinion is a decent entry level tool. All depends on what you intend to cut with it...

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16 minutes ago, collinb said:

CL is a garage sale.

Right, and you have to be careful you don't go from the fire to the frying pan here. If it's not someone on this forum you trust, I suggest you buy less saw but new. You just don't know what you're buying otherwise.I'd hate to see you go from one old loose saw into another. The idea here is to get something you know is solid!

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4 minutes ago, collinb said:

The rhetoric has me curious: What is it about this saw which makes it inherently dangerous?

Once it is aligned is it not safe? Is there something else I'm missing here?

 

If the ONLY issue you are having with the saw is that the fence is not aligned, and you are able to get it properly aligned then you should have no issue as long as you are using common sense when you are operating it. If you are struggling with other things on the saw those things can weigh the decision even more since every problem can and will compound on one another. From this post it seems like you have had an accident or two with this saw already? 

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I had one accident with the saw and it had to do with how I was handling the wood. My other was with the router and involved some inattention.

The issue is whether or not the fence can be made as rigid as it needs to be. Some are saying that it is not worth the effort. Am evaluating.

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk

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You ever see an old ford pickup truck totally redone? They are awesome once you put a rebuilt engine in them, fix all the front end parts from wobbling and sink a few thousand dollars into them. But in the end, they are still old trucks, and if you got in a new ford truck, you'd be like...wow this thing steers great, it's responsive and has an air bag! 

You're driving an old ford. No matter how much you dump into it, it's an old ford. Take a new one for a test drive, and you'll be convinced you'll get better mileage and you'll be safer....with less dust/pollution.

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4 hours ago, AceHoleInOne said:

 

 

For smaller pieces I use a strong magnet butt against the fence. Large or heavy pieces. I will clamp a caul to the table and brace the end of the fence that-way.

 

 

-Ace-

fdb7d660be11039962e2f3053c0f4896.jpg

Why not go with this suggestion? It will get you back to work the quickest and seems pretty easy. If you can send some more pictures of the fence and how it attaches I have never worked with one.

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I have a Delta Contractor saw. The fence is shit, but hey, it works just fine. The issue becomes, as you exit the cut and you're applying side pressure to the fence. The fence will deflect juuuust a little bit.  It takes VERY LITTLE TIME after you lock the fence into position, to drop down a few magnets.. 

If I'm ripping long boards, I will clamp a caul and WOZZER, THIS TAKES A WHOLE FEW SECONDS (I usually spend way too much of my shop time looking for pencils and tape measures than to worry how long it takes to steady my fence). :P

 

-Ace-  

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