Eric. Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 10 minutes ago, Denette said: but what's the chemistry behind how oil cures? Who knows. They all have different dryers in them. A finish like ARS will dry and cure much faster because of whatever chemical dryer they add to it. Clearly they don't add the same stuff to DO. Also keep in mind that DO is an oil/varnish mix. ARS and Minwax wipe-on poly are both diluted oil-based varnishes. Meaning, the latter does not necessarily contain straight oil the same way DO does...rather, they are manufactured with oil. And anyway...why ask why? Danish oil sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 I don't know Danish oil, but take a lesson from concrete myth. Concrete starts soupy and ends rock hard. If you approach it with a "let's dry this faster" mindset, you have lost. Concrete needs hydration to occur. The reaction requires water and creates heat. Add heat, and problems can occur. Starve it of moisture and problems can occur. Some chemical compounds just need the right temp and enough time to go through their change. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 Evaporative and curing finishes are two different things. Shellac is an evaporative finish and once the DNA has flashed off it's done. Oils finishes have both dry times which take many hours and cure times which can take several weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted November 28, 2016 Report Share Posted November 28, 2016 50 minutes ago, estesbubba said: Evaporative and curing finishes are two different things. Shellac is an evaporative finish and once the DNA has flashed off it's done. Oils finishes have both dry times which take many hours and cure times which can take several weeks. OK, so then I guess my question is what the difference between those two times signifies. Is there a different process occurring when an oil finish dries versus when it cures? Or do we just call an oil finish "dry" when it is no longer tacky and "cured" when it no longer has any liquid properties at any level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Dry = you can move it without ruining the finish. Cured = you can treat it as finished furniture without ruining the finish. Set a glass on the table top and there will be no sign when you move it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 The solvent is just there, basically, as a carrier, to make the finish flow. It evaporates, leaving behind a very viscous oil or resin. The curing phase involves that thick stuff polymerizing by reacting with oxygen, which leaves it hard. It's the polymerizing phase that makes oily rags dangerous because the finish is oxidizing & giving off heat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 18 minutes ago, drzaius said: The solvent is just there, basically, as a carrier, to make the finish flow. It evaporates, leaving behind a very viscous oil or resin. The curing phase involves that thick stuff polymerizing by reacting with oxygen, which leaves it hard. It's the polymerizing phase that makes oily rags dangerous because the finish is oxidizing & giving off heat. Ok. So let's say I used Watch Danish Oil, which according to the manufacturer's MSDS has these solvents: Stoddard Solvent Rosin Adduct Ester Solvent Naphtha, Light Aromatic What, if anything, could be done to speed the evaporation and polymerization phases? If you can't tell, I'm working on a project with this stuff, and need it done within a week if possible. Serves me right for using it before reading up on the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Maybe circulate some air, because the varnish in the danish oil will cure with exposure to oxygen. I don't know how to make the oil dry any faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 8 minutes ago, Denette said: If you can't tell, I'm working on a project with this stuff, and need it done within a week if possible. Serves me right for using it before reading up on the stuff. If you want an oil-based finish and you need it to be dry before 2018, I'd recommend cutting your losses and switching to ARS or Minwax wipe-on poly. You'll get a nicer looking finish, a more protective finish, and a piece of furniture you'll actually be able to touch within a day or two. Danish oil sucks. Save it for the next work bench you build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 You are sunk. The naptha will flash off pretty quick, I don't know about the other solvents. At 70* F, a typical coat of DO will be dry to the touch in 6-8 hours, but not safe to handle for a couple of days. Give it a month for a good, solid cure. By then you should be able to lay a book on it overnight, and not have it stuck the next day. Switch to a wipe-on poly, if you possibly can! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 8 minutes ago, Eric. said: If you want an oil-based finish and you need it to be dry before 2018, I'd recommend cutting your losses and switching to ARS or Minwax wipe-on poly. You'll get a nicer looking finish, a more protective finish, and a piece of furniture you'll be able to touch within a day or two. Danish oil sucks. Save it for the next work bench you build. Maybe. But what sucks is it is the perfect color. So I'm motivated to keep it for that reason. The intention was to use Danish oil for the consistent even color (I'm working with pine) and then go over it with a thick few layers of polyurethane, because the project is a countertop for my brother. And yes, I know, pine is a terrible choice for a countertop, hence the plan to have layers and layers of polyurethane. I wouldn't have made it this way, but he supplied the wood, so I'm working with what I've got. And of course it has to look like walnut. I may take the project into our backyard shed, which has windows, and leave it there with good ventilation for the next week and see how the Danish oil does with 24/7 fresh air. It's been cooped up in the garage up until now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 That's a big bowl of wrong. LOL 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxdabroxx Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 @Eric. how do you really feel about danish oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 6 minutes ago, Eric. said: That's a big bowl of wrong. LOL Don't I know it. But I'm sure you know how terrible walnut stain looks on pine. Since dark walnut wood stains ruin pine and my brother didn't want a faux-zebrawood stained counter, Danish oil seemed like a good way to color it. So at least that was the only mistake I really made. The counter itself is very well made, aside from being pine. It is a single slab, 14.25" wide, 9' long, with 4" breadboards at each end attached with homemade domino joinery held in place by half-blind counterbored dowels. The slab has a few walnut dovetail keys in it. It was so much prettier before the stain, but, alas, it's not for my house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 12 minutes ago, Denette said: walnut stain This is the problem. And it is a large problem. Even if you got the pine slab for free, you are money and time behind trying to make pine look like walnut. First, it never will. Second, it's just bad practice. Just use Walnut next time, it's not that expensive. Walnut with a few coats of ARS would have solved all of your problems. You would have been done in the same day you started with the proper material. Personally, I'd burn the pine and start fresh with walnut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 3 minutes ago, Llama said: This is the problem. And it is a large problem. Even if you got the pine slab for free, you are money and time behind trying to make pine look like walnut. First, it never will. Second, it's just bad practice. Just use Walnut next time, it's not that expensive. Walnut with a few coats of ARS would have solved all of your problems. You would have been done in the same day you started with the proper material. Personally, I'd burn the pine and start fresh with walnut. Me too. Walnut would have been a much much better material for a counter. But the pine will have to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 It's your responsibility to explain these things to people who don't understand wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 4 minutes ago, Eric. said: It's your responsibility to explain these things to people who don't understand wood. I did. It didn't matter much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 It oxidises . You can keep the room warmer but trying to force it will not end nicely. Have patience ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 And anyway...why ask why? Danish oil sucks. Just because it turned your workbench into a banana Eric... I'm a huge DO fan...plus it smells good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 3 minutes ago, vinnyjojo said: Just because it turned your workbench into a banana Eric... Nope. That was BLO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Nope. That was BLO. Oops..that's right. Has it dried yet? p> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 1 minute ago, vinnyjojo said: Oops..that's right. Has it dried yet? p> Yeah it's plenty dry and it lost its banana for the most part. It looks okay now. But lesson learned...no more BLO on maple and no more DO on anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Boiled Light Orchestra ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wouldwurker Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Bachman Linseed Overdrive 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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