Shop organisation


AndrewPritchard

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Just now, BillyJack said:

Some comes from "the Toyota Way". The rest comes from people who get payed to show you how to make small spaces productive.

I get it, I truly do. For the line production guy, the tools stay out. For the job site guy,they hang on a belt. For most of us, there ain't no way in Hades to put everything out or on open shelves. Some stuff just needs to be stowed in dust proof ways. You have to see where hobby shops are rarely ever like production shops though. Even production shops get squeezed sometimes. Universal statements are hard to substantiate in that environment. 

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I understand. I have a once hobby shop turned into a cabinet shop back to a hobby shop. As a cabinet shop I purchased to get the best deals. Bought multiples of tools in case of a break downs. Now that I'm much older I find I wear down faster and need a more efficient shop to get the most out of my time in the shop.

i found over the years that many start out efficient but eventually end up collecting more  tooling and wood than they will use. What once was fun turns into work just to work in the shop...

Just expressing what I've learned.

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Drawers vs shelves is somewhat personal preference.   I cook in my kitchen daily, our drawers are organized and I have lived here 3 years.   But for some reason I still open 3 drawers to find what I am looking for.   I prefer open shelving for that reason.  I can look up and see exactly what I need.    

And, if you have the wall space, shelves/hooks are absolutely faster to access and you don't have to bend over.  

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This is a great thread.  We are getting some really strong opinions about preferences here.  Good dialog.  I know someone (a relative) who has massive 24" deep cabinets in his shop, drawer units under bench and machines and a wall storage system by his lathe. 

The only part of his system that seems to consistently fail are the deep cabinets.  As someone said "people create clutter" (sorry if I paraphrased that).  He cannot resist setting "stuff" in front of other "stuff" when there is so much room left in the cabinet. 

The result is that he frequently has to move something to get to what he is after but, his system has no space for the "stuff" that's in the way to be moved to.  Ultimately things are not in the same place as they started out and he is always wasting time any time he needs something from the cabinets.  Seriously, I actually cringe when we are working together and I ask him for something and he heads for . . . (queue the Vincent Price voice over) "the cabinet".

I hope the OP can cull through all this spirited conversation and pull a few gems that will help him in his task.

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Great stuff guys! This is really helpful.

Drawers: I think shallow drawers works well for the majority of tools. I don't want tools laying over the top of other tools. as it makes it harder to find things or get tools out

On reflection, I wonder if a combination wall of tools and drawers for some tools like routers would work.

Maybe once I've got it built, I'll post some picks

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25 minutes ago, AndrewPritchard said:

On reflection, I wonder if a combination wall of tools and drawers for some tools like routers would work.

 

I would think that would be real doable.  A base cabinet with the drawers and a wall above.  the first picture you posted setting on top of a cabinet.  Depending on how wide you wanted it and how deep the drawers, you could put drawers on both sides & the wall in the middle so it would be useable on both sides.

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So the next question is how deep should I make the drawers?
The deeper drawers need to accommodate the routers etc, so that's easy to decide.

The shallow drawers on the other hand is harder. I'm thinking deep to put a hand plane in on it's side and still shut the drawer. I don't want it much shallower than that or it won't be useful. Deeper than that and I'm thinking it'll get crap thrown on top of tools.

I also need to decide what to do with my lumber. I don't have many long pieces, but the move has highlighted how much I do have. Most of it is 4" or less. Should I put the lumber rack on the back of the mobile tool wall or will that make it too heavy?

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1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

Don't discount drawers less than 2" deep. Lots of pencils, squares, dividers, and other marking / measuring tools will fit.

So will chisels, rasps and small hand saws if you don't have any place else for them.  I have two drawers, one is an 1 1/2 deep with chisels and on that is just over 1 inch deep with rasps and carcass saws.

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14 minutes ago, BillyJack said:

You might try searches on Pinterest for mobile shop options.

I did, and it came up with some interesting ideas. The problem with Pinterest is that it only displays a picture; it doesn't tell me how useful the resultant product actually was and I was hoping (and got) some real world advice from people who have actually done it.

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So this is the basic design I've come up with so far. 2" drawers at the top row for small items. The larger 12" deep drawers are for routers, circular saws etc. I like the idea of the 2' deep worktop, as it gives me a place to set up tools - routers etc. The space at the back can be used to store wood etc. 2" wheels on the bottom completes the setup. I'm planning on putting french cleats on at least some of the top board.

Toolwall.jpg

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I have seen 3 mobile racks require a re-work due to underestimating caster requirements.  While there are small casters that can move large weights they are not really designed for speed or distance. 

The heavy duty bases in my jointer, planer and bandsaw make moving a few hundred pounds possible. I would not want to move these machines several feet with any regularity. I have 3" casters on my out feed table and wish I had gone with 4" for the ease of movement. My drum sander which is probably only 100 pounds less moves on 3" with ease.

Calculate your weight and remember, four 150 pound rated casters does not mean you can move 600 pounds with ease.

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Shop casters need larger wheels more often than heavier duty ratings. Most shops over time will accumulate some debris or experience a concrete crack that will put torque on the caster in ways it won't tolerate. Typically larger wheels go with heavier duty ratings. This is just to fill out the prior post discussion. If you can find two similar duty ratings with different sized wheels, choose the bigger wheel. 

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In addition to weight requirements, unless your shop is dead flat, and free of debris, 2" casters can be hard to get moving. Larger wheels reduce the rolling resistance (I think that is right). Heavier carts will have more inertia, so over-sizing your casters will make your cart a lot easier to roll around.

I made a 4' lumber cart a few months ago (Steve Ramsey design) using 2.5" casters. It's a great cart, but I had enough hardwood on the thing that I had to unload it to move it to a different location in the shop.

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I like the polyurethane casters way more then the hard rubber and phenolic.  Also its nice to have the ones that lock both the wheel and the swivel.  And gee-dub is correct, don't get the small ones, the 4" casters I have on my outfit/assembly will roll over an extension cord if I had to.

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