Tracksaw setting gauge

[TerryMcK]

For all you users of tracksaws (Festool, Bosch, Makita etc) here is a design of a measuring gauge to make setting cuts far easier.

The one problem with cutting sheetgoods using a tracksaw is measuring. You create a good edge from stock by cutting about 1/8" off. Then using a tape measure and a pencil make a couple of pencil marks relative to this edge.
Then you set the tracksaw track onto the pencil marks and suddenly you can't see them. You move the track a little to expose the pencil line. Go to the other end and find that pencil line is 1/8" away from the rubber splinter guard. You move it back to the line, goto the other end and find you have obscured the pencil again.

This scenario does happen and sometimes you end up with a board cut that is slightly out of parallel and oversize because you covered the pencil line. There must be an easier way of setting this.
The good news is there is.

Steve Maskery of Workshop Essentials designed a simple setting gauge with integral rule that compensates for the track width and results in parallel, accurate width, repeatable cuts every time.
I take no credit for designing this but set about making one.
(Steve also says this has probably been done many times before in the dim and distant past but he was the first person to show it being created on video.)

Here is my Sketchup version of Steve's original design:

Tracksaw Gauge Head

Stock
First of all I found a length of hardwood on my shelves around 1.2m (48") long. I milled this square to about 20mm (approx 3/4"). It is not essential that this is dead straight over its length and a slight amount of bow is acceptable. If you can make it straight and it maintains then all the better.
Cut both ends square.
Relieve the arris on each side of the stock to remove any sharp edges and splinters.

Head fabrication
Next the head was made from a length of walnut cut to 20 x 30 x 90 mm (3/4" x 1-1/4" x 3-1/2").
I cut 2 blocks 20 x 30 x 35mm long (3/4" x 1-1/4" x 1-3/8") from walnut. Into one of these I drilled and tapped a hole for M6 (1/4" threads can be used in US). I also counterbored one end 12mm diameter x 10mm deep (1/2" x 3/8").

The walnut blocks were then glued on with a 20mm division to form a U section. I used the actual hardwood bar to space the blocks. There can be a slight amount of clearance here of about 10 thousands to allow the bar to slide easily back and forth. I further dowelled these blocks into place.

Graticule plate
Next an acrylic graticule was made from some 6mm (1/4") perspex or plexiglass I had in stock. It measures 30 x 90 x 6mm (1-1/4" x 3-1/2" x 1/4" thick) I scratched a line on the backside and highlighted it with a Sharpy to make it standout. Then I drilled 4 small holes, 1 in each corner, and countersunk them on the opposite face to the scratched line.

Then using small countersunk screws the transparent graticule plate was attached, line side down, across the blocks. All corners were then chamfered on my disc sander. I decided to radius 2 corners as a visual reminder as to which way around the reference face goes.

Assembly
Use a finger screw or machine bolt if you don't have one and insert it into the threaded hole. I found a plastic rod of suitable diameter and cut it to 8mm (5/16") long. This is the pressure washer to prevent marring the stock in use.

Then insert the stock and set it to a random length.

Calibration
The final part is calibrating the gauge. At this stage there is no scale on the gauge.

Take a random sheet from your racks and set it flat on your cutting bench. Cut one edge with your tracksaw to establish a straight edge. Then move the track over to the other edge of the board. Take your gauge and set the head to register on the straight edge, extend the stock until it touches the back edge of the track and lock the head in position.

Move the gauge to the other end of the track and ensure the track also is located correctly. 

Move the gauge back to the original location to ensure it hasn't moved.
 If you have track clamps lock them into place. The rubber strips on the underside of the track hold it into place 99% of the time but there is the odd time where you can knock it yourself.

Then make the cut with your tracksaw. Note that you have NOT measured anything whatsoever yet.

Remove the track saw and track.
Next using your most accurate steel rule take a measurement of the width of the board you have just cut. Make a note of this.

Applying the measuring tape.
You can buy self adhesive metal measuring tape that is intended just for this purpose. I bought one which came on a roll starting at 0mm and ending at 1000mm (0-39" approx). The ends of the tape have a large un-etched section intended for trimming to any size you wish. I bought one that works from right to left. You can also buy them that start from left and increase as you get to the right as shown below.

The tape is thin enough to slide underneath the graticule plate and between the face of the stock. Slide it into place and set it so the measurement you took is under the scratch line. Then using a few strips of blue tape temporarily stick the tape into place so it can't move. Remove the head.

Next cut the tape with tin shears to be shy of the end face. Now remove a small portion of the backing release paper and start sticking the tape down to the stock. Pull out the backing paper at 90 degrees to the tape whilst smoothing the tape as you go along. When you reach the first bit of blue tape remove it before carrying on. Do this until the entire tape is stuck down.

Using the tin shears again cut off the end that it surplus.

You will then have a gauge that starts at 127mm (5") or whatever the width of your track is.

Gauge head with measuring tape applied

My completed full length gauge

Reassemble the head into place and make a test cut this time setting the gauge to a determined length.

Measure the resultant board width and you will find it is spot on. If it isn't you can slot the holes in the graticule plate and move the scratch line slightly.

Improvements
You can put a brass threaded bush in the hole if you like but I haven't found it necessary.

Now get out there and make one

 

Terry
 

[wtnhighlander]

Nice write-up, Terry! I like this idea, as it works for any type of straightedge-guided cut, not just track saws.

[TerryMcK]

Correct Ross

[Eric.]

Interesting contraption...but I gotta wonder...why not just use a good, long square?  Something like the Woodpeck framing square makes the whole problem moot...just strike a full line and set your track to that...no back-and-forth...and done in two seconds...

[TerryMcK]

@Eric.We are not talking about making something square here but cutting sheets to parallel width without any measuring (pencil marks tapes etc). This is repeatable with one setting of the gauge so you can cut multiple sheets one after the other all to the same width.

Use the square afterwards to make a 90 degree and then again use the gauge to cut to length.

[Eric.]

14 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

@Eric.We are not talking about making something square here but cutting sheets to parallel width without any measuring (pencil marks tapes etc). This is repeatable with one setting of the gauge so you can cut multiple sheets one after the other all to the same width.

I thought that was why god invented table saws?

[TerryMcK]

 

Just now, Eric. said:

I thought that was why god invented table saws?

No need for the TS55 in that case.

[Eric.]

3 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

 

No need for the TS55 in that case.

Well everyone's workflow is different.  I use my TS for the rips and the TS55 and MFT to crosscut my panels (at least the panels that are too big for the TS sled or SCMS).  If I didn't have the MFT I'd just use a big, accurate square to set up the track...which is what I used to do.

[TerryMcK]

Good for you.

My glass back won't allow me to lift heavy 3/4" 8'x4' boards of ply or 1" thick 8 x 4 MDF sheets onto the TS to rip so I'll carry on with ripping with the track saw .

[Immortan D]

Interesting device, Terry. I use my combination square for the same purpose, I have a 600 mm Starrett ruler I often use to set my straight edge.

[Llama]

Have you found the applied scale having the numbers rubbed off? I'd probably grab a t-track type extruded aluminum channel with a recess for my scale. 

I like the idea... This would have saved me from borrowing the Seneca version.

[Coop]

Neat idea Terry. I don't have a track saw but do have a straight edge with clamps (same idea) designed to rip sheet goods and this would be very helpful. Thanks bud for sharing!

[Vyrolan]

1 hour ago, TerryMcK said:

My glass back won't allow me to lift heavy 3/4" 8'x4' boards of ply or 1" thick 8 x 4 MDF sheets onto the TS

Even when my back is being agreeable, my puny arms struggle lifting them... Festool needs to make a device that makes us telekinetic.

 

Also, a most excellent writeup Terry...thanks for the above and beyond effort.

[Mark J]

It's a giant marking guage without the scratch pin.

It occurs to me that you could also do the initial setup using the cutting side of the track rather than the back side.  That would allow you to make a parellel cut closer than 5 inches to initial panel cut.

You could set up one side of the measure stick for the back of the track and the other side for the front of the track so you could make either kind of parellel cut.

[Eric.]

1 hour ago, TerryMcK said:

Good for you.

My glass back won't allow me to lift heavy 3/4" 8'x4' boards of ply or 1" thick 8 x 4 MDF sheets onto the TS to rip so I'll carry on with ripping with the track saw .

It's a totally logical workflow for most shops.  I do have an advantage that most guys don't have, which is that I can back my truck right up to my outfeed table with the garage door open, slide the sheets out of the truck and rip them one at a time without ever really having to lift anything.

But yeah...in any other case...whatever you can do to avoid manhandling a full sheet of 3/4" ply (or MDF...you're right...that stuff is like lead)...is definitely a priority.  You can't get much woodworking done when you're in traction. LOL

[wtnhighlander]

Interesting contraption...but I gotta wonder...why not just use a good, long square?  Something like the Woodpeck framing square makes the whole problem moot...just strike a full line and set your track to that...no back-and-forth...and done in two seconds...

Yep. But Terry's rig is more affordable....the number of times I might use a square that long can't justify the red aluminum price.

[bgreenb]

1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

 can't justify the red aluminum price.

But...it's red!

[TerryMcK]

17 hours ago, Llama said:

Have you found the applied scale having the numbers rubbed off? I'd probably grab a t-track type extruded aluminum channel with a recess for my scale. 

I like the idea... This would have saved me from borrowing the Seneca version.

No there is still sufficient clearance so the plexi doesn't scrape the tape. However machining a very shallow recess would be a good idea. The thing to be aware of is not to move the scale lines too far away from the scratch line on the plexi to avoid parallax errors.

[ben_r_]

Nice design. I have done this same measurement setup with my Woodpeckers rulers and their Rule Stop. If you'd rather buy than build, check those out or the Precision Dogs / Seneca parallel guides for dual action!

[gee-dub]

Cool idea.  A larger version of this.  OMG, 23 dollars!?!  That almost makes Woodpecker's version make sense.  I'm glad I bought 2 back when they were reasonable.  Not sure that I would pay $23 for one but, I use them on all my steel rules for just that sort of thing except my 36" one; that is too wide.