Kathy Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 This is my first time refinishing a piece of furniture. I am refinishing a kitchen table, I believe it is maple. I didn't notice until after a second coat of stain that one section looked scratched up. I lightly sanded with 220 grit and added 1 more coat of stain to just that section. That one section now looks dull where the rest of the table looks shiny. Any ideas? Do I sand the rest of the table and add stain like that other section? Just add my top cost and hope the glossiness all matches? Help! I'm using Minwax oil based stain. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 Hi Kathy, and welcome. I'm sure one of the more expert (re)-finishers will drop by momentarily, but could you post a photo or three? It always helps to see what you are describing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 I'll just say welcome. Fnishing so not my strong suit either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 If this were me, I would re-sand the top and get everything back to even and restain, then do the same thing to the remaining items. Meaning, if you have already stained those pieces, sand and re-stain. If you didn't stain the other pieces yet. Stain those, let dry and sand back then stain again. Every piece must have the same process done or it wont be consistent. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted May 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 I've tried to upload the picture on a computer and iphone and keep getting the same error message (200) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 After staining it's hard to sand. The stain clogs the sandpaper rapidly. I use a card scraper in that situation. It takes some learning to keep one sharp but it's the best tool for the job. It's either that or plan on wasting a bunch of sandpaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 To be clear, should of said "scuff" sand. The object of the game is to use the sandpaper to blend and remove "some" of the stain already down. I think in this case, using a card scrapper would be to aggressive. I'm not implying to completely remove the stain and getting back down to white wood. All we're trying to do is equalize the background for the next coat of stain. -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 2 hours ago, Kathy said: I've tried to upload the picture on a computer and iphone and keep getting the same error message (200) Your tag says only two posts. Pics will only upload after a few more posts that are not identical. The forum is attempting to stay spam free. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted May 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 What do you recommend for the protective coat? From what I'm reading, polyurethane doesn't see like the way to go. Someone recommended Spar Urethane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 polyurethane is more durable than spar. Spar is more flexible so it does better outside because it can move with the seasons. But regular indoor poly is more durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted May 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 From what I've read, water based poly doesn't do well with heat so it isn't a good candidate for a kitchen table. Oil based poly will add yellow, which I don't want as I'm going for a cherry finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Oil based poly does add a warm tone to the wood, which on most woods is a good thing. If you have a very light wood such as maple & want to maintain that white look, then waterborne is the stuff to use (even so, it will eventually darken & yellow). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Ok I got the stain to where I wanted it and it looked great. Just applied second coat of oil based poly and all I see are scratches everywhere. I had ended the sanding with 220 grit. And very lightly sanded with 220 before applying second coat of poly. Help! I don't want to have to strip this all over again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Kathy, did you progress through the grits in small steps, or big jumps? The scratches may be left from a much coarser grit, and weren't removed if you jumped ahead too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted June 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 I did 100, 150, then 220.So I would need to completely strip the table to nothing and start over? If so, I'm ready to throw this table into the trash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Maybe not. Can you capture the scratches in a photo and upload it here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Ross, it does sound as you suggested. How else, other than taking it back to bare wood, would she correct it? Perhaps, if she can't upload pics, she could send them to one of us and we can post them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted June 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 I'll get a picture in the morning so there's enough light to see it. I only saw scratches once I put on the second coat which makes me think the 220 scratched the first poly coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 If the scratches are only in the poly, and you scuff-sanded it with 220, it is possible you just sanded before the poly was fully cured. Did you notice any spots of material buildup on the paper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted June 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 I still can't upload pictures. I'll go back and look but I don't remember seeing build up on the sand paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 In any case, it sounds like you might need to clean off the poly to fully remove the scratches. I can't recall seeing scratch lines between sanded coats of poly, ever. Maybe some dust was left from the sanding? If the scratches were in the wood, I would think they would appear after the first coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kathy Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 How can I take just the poly off and not all of the stain with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 42 minutes ago, Kathy said: How can I take just the poly off and not all of the stain with it? Magic? Sorry, don't mean to make light of your predicament. I often find that trying to avoid a total re-do is more work and gets me poorer results in the end. I would just strip the poly and then assess what I have to work with. There will probably be coloration left behind. I would expect to sand some to achieve a uniform surface preparation. Depending on how you end up, a re-application of stain will probably be in order. Don't let it overwhelm you. The actual process is a little more involved than some folks make out (especially DIY shows) but, it is a process. Be patient and diligent and you will be rewarded every time you look at the table after it is done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnie Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I’m having the same problem, sanding lines which were noticed after staining! My question is how long should I wait before resanding to stain it !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Check the instructions on the stain you applied, should tell how long to wait before handling. Give it a day longer to cure enough to sand without gumming up the paper. Then test in an inconspicuous area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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