Trouble with sanding after staining


Kathy

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This is my first time refinishing a piece of furniture. I am refinishing a kitchen table, I believe it is maple. I didn't notice until after a second coat of stain that one section looked scratched up. I lightly sanded with 220 grit and added 1 more coat of stain to just that section. That one section now looks dull where the rest of the table looks shiny. Any ideas? Do I sand the rest of the table and add stain like that other section? Just add my top cost and hope the glossiness all matches? Help! I'm using Minwax oil based stain. Thanks!

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If this were me, I would re-sand the top and get everything back to even and restain, then do the same thing to the remaining items. Meaning, if you have already stained those pieces, sand and re-stain. If you didn't stain the other pieces yet. Stain those, let dry and sand back then stain again. Every piece must have the same process done or it wont be consistent.  

-Ace-

 

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After staining it's hard to sand. The stain clogs the sandpaper rapidly. I use a card scraper in that situation. It takes some learning to keep one sharp but it's the best tool for the job. It's either that or plan on wasting a bunch of sandpaper. 

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To be clear, should of said "scuff" sand. The object of the game is to use the sandpaper to blend and remove "some" of the stain already down. I think in this case, using a card scrapper would be to aggressive. I'm not implying to completely remove the stain and getting back down to white wood. All we're trying to do is equalize the background for the next coat of stain.



-Ace-
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2 hours ago, Kathy said:

I've tried to upload the picture on a computer and iphone and keep getting the same error message (200)

Your tag says only two posts. Pics will only upload after a few more posts that are not identical. The forum is attempting to stay spam free. 

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polyurethane is more durable than spar.   Spar is more flexible so it does better outside because it can move with the seasons.   But regular indoor poly is more durable. 

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Oil based poly does add a warm tone to the wood, which on most woods is a good thing. If you have a very light wood such as maple & want to maintain that white look, then waterborne is the stuff to use (even so, it will eventually darken & yellow). 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok I got the stain to where I wanted it and it looked great. Just applied second coat of oil based poly and all I see are scratches everywhere. I had ended the sanding with 220 grit. And very lightly sanded with 220 before applying second coat of poly.  Help! I don't want to have to strip this all over again. 

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In any case, it sounds like you might need to clean off the poly to fully remove the scratches. I can't recall seeing scratch lines between sanded coats of poly, ever. Maybe some dust was left from the sanding?

If the scratches were in the wood, I would think they would appear after the first coat.

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42 minutes ago, Kathy said:

How can I take just the poly off and not all of the stain with it?

Magic?  Sorry, don't mean to make light of your predicament.  I often find that trying to avoid a total re-do is more work and gets me poorer results in the end.  I would just strip the poly and then assess what I have to work with.

There will probably be coloration left behind.  I would expect to sand some to achieve a uniform surface preparation.  Depending on how you end up, a re-application of stain will probably be in order.  Don't let it overwhelm you.  The actual process is a little more involved than some folks make out (especially DIY shows) but, it is a process.  Be patient and diligent and you will be rewarded every time you look at the table after it is done.

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  • 2 years later...

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