namluke Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 Hi, Im sistering joists (7x2) 2.5 meters in length. I am securing them with around 4 to 6 100mm No.6 wood screws and 4 x M10 Nut and Bolts. Would you say i need to use construction adhesive also or do you think that what i have used will be ok. I thinking the adhesive may help with potential creaking Thanks Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post drzaius Posted September 7, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 I would use adhesive. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 I would use adhesive and jack them up at both ends before attaching the fasteners . Use adhesive between and on top of the new joist. Use clamps to close any gaps, then drill pilot & bolt holes, install the fasteners then release the jacks & do the next joist. Repeat as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 If you have the option of using adhesive, definitely do it. Polyurethane construction adhesive is excellent stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Region Rogue Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 I do this a lot in rehabbing. The accepted practice here is that the sistered joist extends at least three feet beyond the damaged section, and then secure using adhesive as well as three screws/nails every 16 inches with two 1/2 inch carriage bolts at each end, though that last bit is not as important if the sistered joist extends the whole span and is supported by a wall/foundation on each end. For a joist that's 8 feet long, I'd be using something around 12 screws or nails. Screws hold the joists together better over time, but nails have much better sheer weight strength. Personally, I use the carriage bolts and screws, because most of the sheer weight holding is going to be done by those carriage bolts. Clamps are a must for closing those gaps before driving the fasteners, especially if using screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 Yep, and gaps negate the bond of the adhesive. 12 screws and 4 bolts sounds right for that length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 I have always lagged and nailed, or bolted and nailed depending on the span. The nail vs screw can be limited by code in some localities still so I limit screws on structural areas. Edit: Always with adhesive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 Yep, nails have high shear strength. Drywall screws are too brittle. Construction screws do not have a bugle head. If it's getting inspected just use bolts & nails. Nails are cheap so you can use plenty, especially if you have a nail gun ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandorLush Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 1 hour ago, wdwerker said: Yep, nails have high shear strength. Drywall screws are too brittle. Construction screws do not have a bugle head. If it's getting inspected just use bolts & nails. Nails are cheap so you can use plenty, especially if you have a nail gun ! and it is really fun to pincushion the daylights out of a beam with a nail gun 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 7 hours ago, CandorLush said: and it is really fun to pincushion the daylights out of a beam with a nail gun Ain't that the truth! I just can't control myself when I get a framing nailer in my hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
namluke Posted September 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 Awesome thanks for the advice everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tom King Posted September 10, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 10, 2017 I could have used you guys when we built these trusses in the attic of an 1850 house. The rafters are 20 foot long 3x4's. It's a good thing they were clear Heart Pine, because tensile strength was the only thing keeping the roof from caving in. The hips had sagged a little over three inches, and the rafters over 5 inches. A few of the rafters had split. These trusses span the 44 foot length of the house, and there is one on each side, in the middle of the rafter span. They are built from 2x12x16 Weyhauser Framer Series. Top and bottom chords are doubled. We had to pull all the pieces up through a 16 x 20 inch opening, that thankfully was in line with the double back doors on the second story, so they had a straight shot up, but we could still barely get the 16 footers up in there. I jacked the hips up with a hydraulic jack before assembling the trusses, piece by piece, and then wedged the rafters back up to straight, with a flat roof plane. We used screws to pull everything together, along with some bolts, and then sewed them together with over 5,000 3-1/2 inch framing nails in each truss. The lightweight guns proved too hard on wrists, so I dug out the old Senco SN IV, that I bought new in 1974, and even though it is really heavy, it was the right gun for the job. Anyone who likes shooting framing nails would have had your fill here. The homeowners had been trying for years to get someone to not only figure out what needed to be done, but do the job. They kept us busy for two more years, and would have kept us busy for several more, but I just got tired of working 35 miles from home. That's the house we put the Cypress shingle roof on. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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