Shop Build: Outfeed Table Base Build


bushwacked

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So my stability question was basically for this build here. Next week I will be busting out a base for this:
 
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It only took about 3 hours of cleaning and a blower to make it look so nice and clean haha.
 
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This is the overall look I am going for ... it will be inset about 1/2” from the top.
 
The pullout drawers will be on the backside of where the picture is. They will house my dewalt planer, air compressor and rigid oscillating spindle sander.
 
The front side will just be drawers for more storage.
 
The top area with lines through it will be open to give me room to clamp things on the table top.

The bottom with be on adjustable feet and then I will also be attaching some workbench casters as well I can pop down and move it around on wheels if I need to.
 
I got a new job and so I will have pretty much all next off to hopefully get this built. My birthday today my wife surprised me with a $250 credit on my account at the wood store so that will basically pay for almost all my ply I need for the cabinets which is great!
 
I will be picking up all the stuff either Friday or Monday. Not sure yet but it will be nice to get this done and have lots more storage for the shop! Slowly getting my rework done to it.
 
 
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I recognize the carpeted door/panel holders but I've never seem them built quite that way. I'm interested in how they went together.  Your base cabinet questions make much better sense now. 

Do you feel any shame putting a drink on a MDF top ?  <grin> we notice things !

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10 minutes ago, ..Kev said:

Looking forward to seeing it BW!

Happy Birthday!

Thanks! 

6 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

I recognize the carpeted door/panel holders but I've never seem them built quite that way. I'm interested in how they went together.  Your base cabinet questions make much better sense now. 

Do you feel any shame putting a drink on a MDF top ?  <grin> we notice things !

I can take some pictures of those for you if you want ... they are my brother in laws that he built.

Glad that question now makes sense after confusing everyone haha. Neh not too much shame :) ... it is a removable top, 2 x 3/4 pieces so I can scrap the top one when it gets nasty.

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5 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

Thanks ! Pictures would be great ! 

I would spray some finish on the top after a good sanding. Glue will come off easier and wood slides smoothly when ripping. 

ok will do ... 

what kind of finish do you recommend for this? how many coats? I dont have any type of HLVP sprayer though unless you just mean a rattle can from HD

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That top should handle some work in the future.

1 hour ago, bushwacked said:

my wife surprised me with a $250 credit on my account

Wives are the best!!!

 

1 hour ago, wdwerker said:

Do you feel any shame putting a drink on a MDF top

Better there then the cast iron tops in the shop

I finished mine like Steve said and then I wax it every few months.  Everything just pops of with a putty knife.

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1 hour ago, Chet said:

Better there then the cast iron tops in the shop

I finished mine like Steve said and then I wax it every few months.  Everything just pops of with a putty knife.

Yes, I cry a little when I see drinks on cast iron machines haha

What did you finish yours with? how many coats?

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26 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

Yes, I cry a little when I see drinks on cast iron machines haha

What did you finish yours with? how many coats?

I had some left over hardwood flooring poly for mine and did 3 thick coats. a quart or 2 of oil based brushing poly should do fine. WB might work but i always get hesitant with water and MDF.

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58 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

What did you finish yours with? how many coats?

I think everyone empties the finish cabinet when it comes to finishes for shop stuff. :P  I used up some Defthane I had on hand.

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Thanks ! Interesting design. I bet it works well, holding by using the vertical weight to clamp the jaws shut. 

Use whatever finish you have on hand or are the most familiar with. I've used waterbourne finish on MDF plenty of times, but it's much easier when you spray.

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Thanks ! Interesting design. I bet it works well, holding by using the vertical weight to clamp the jaws shut. 

Use whatever finish you have on hand or are the most familiar with. I've used waterbourne finish on MDF plenty of times, but it's much easier when you spray.

 

He seems to love them. Used on 100s of doors and he’s had them for as long as I’ve known him.

 

Ok I’ll go searching for some old finish. I think I have some danish oil and maybe some ARS as well that are pushing age limits. I am assuming I apply like normal ... pour lots on rub in and then rub excess off 15 mins later and repeat ...???

 

 

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16 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

 

He seems to love them. Used on 100s of doors and he’s had them for as long as I’ve known him.

 

Ok I’ll go searching for some old finish. I think I have some danish oil and maybe some ARS as well that are pushing age limits. I am assuming I apply like normal ... pour lots on rub in and then rub excess off 15 mins later and repeat ...???

 

 

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Apply evenly don't remove the excess, or more likely there won't be excess to remove. You will want to build a thick film.

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ARS, thin coat will dry faster. Multiple coats to achieve thickness. Sand after first coat is very dry to cut off any bumps/dust/flaws. With any luck you could coat in the evening and let it dry overnight. Danish oil might take much longer to dry.

After 2-3 coats you can refresh the finish easily whenever it's taken a beating .

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3 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

One other question.....

Can I just apply on the top and sides or will I need to cover everything to keep moisture and movement equal?


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I only applied on top and sides. Your top is so danged thick that your not going to have any issues. 5" .... overkill man, and i like it. I suggest doing a hardwood edge like others have mentioned. Doesn't have to be nice or thick wood. I think mine is 1/2" the corners of the mdf are going to get damaged and that will create problems.

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Top and sides should be fine on a torsion box. I might add hardwood to the sides if you ever have the time & wood. Screw it on & countersink so replacing the top eventually will be easier.


Ya I am thinking I will do that one day as well ... just need to run a flush trim bit around the top.


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