Chet Posted May 25, 2018 Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 2 hours ago, bushwacked said: I think 5” high sides should be plenty You may not even need that. I done pull out shelves with just a lip all the way around the shelf just enough to keep things from rolling off the shelf. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 2 minutes ago, Chet said: You may not even need that. I done pull out shelves with just a lip all the way around the shelf just enough to keep things from rolling off the shelf. so basically something just high enough to attach the slides to and I should be good? I mean I am not really worried about a planer, compressor or sander randomly rolling off the shelf haha. If that works, I like that and save materials too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 25, 2018 Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 If you go with short sides use 3/4" thick stock. 4" or 5" with dominos , dovetails, dowels etc spreads the glue surface out if you use thinner drawer sides. I prefer 5/8"Baltic & 5 mm dominos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 4 minutes ago, wdwerker said: If you go with short sides use 3/4" thick stock. 4" or 5" with dominos , dovetails, dowels etc spreads the glue surface out if you use thinner drawer sides. I prefer 5/8"Baltic & 5 mm dominos. would dados and screws work or do I need something more substantial due to the weight? I will be using leftover 3/4 ply I used on the cabinets. I figured I needed bigger ply with the weight and didnt think 1/2" would be strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 25, 2018 Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 3/4" ply glue & screws with piloted holes will be plenty. I always use 4 or 5 screws per section to attach the slides. The longer the better too. Carefully centered pilot holes help. 16-20 screws will handle the weight of a machine easily. Vix bits to center pilot holes in hardware with countersunk holes are wonderful. Focus on holding the drill very straight. If unfamiliar w the bit PRACTICE ON SCRAP ! Overbuild it as accurately as possible. Use good materials and then it should handle the abuse for the rest of your days ! Do it right then give it hell ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 12 hours ago, wdwerker said: 3/4" ply glue & screws with piloted holes will be plenty. I always use 4 or 5 screws per section to attach the slides. The longer the better too. Carefully centered pilot holes help. 16-20 screws will handle the weight of a machine easily. Vix bits to center pilot holes in hardware with countersunk holes are wonderful. Focus on holding the drill very straight. If unfamiliar w the bit PRACTICE ON SCRAP ! Overbuild it as accurately as possible. Use good materials and then it should handle the abuse for the rest of your days ! Do it right then give it hell ! As far as slides I normally use every screw hole they include to attach. I figure if they give me, for instance, 6 holes, I should be using 6 screws. I am assuming for these longer and heavy duty ones I will be using a lot more screws with it. I do not have a vix bit set, sounds like it is time for me to order one 21 hours ago, ..Kev said: Pretty much a personal choice. Some want all their stuff open and easy to access and some want the doors to help keep the dust off. 21 hours ago, Chet said: If the pull out tools will be used in place the doors could become knee knockers. If the tool is to be lifted to the bench top and the door closed for use then doors become a good option to keep things tidy. 21 hours ago, wdwerker said: Main reason for doors is if you run a router or other chip throwing tool it keeps the contents clean. Best reason for no doors is you can see where things are for quick access. I think for now, I will leave them open. If I get out the dovetail jig, I will use it over an area with the drawers on them to help with mess. other than that I think I should be fine just blowing out the compartment every now and then. All the tools, minus the air compressor will be lifted out and put onto the outfeed table for use. The compressor will just be stationary in there unless I need to adjust something. I plan on running a rose out through the end of the cabinets as well so there will be no clutter through the front of the cabinets with a hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted May 25, 2018 Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 1 hour ago, bushwacked said: As far as slides I normally use every screw hole they include to attach. I figure if they give me, for instance, 6 holes, I should be using 6 screws. I am assuming for these longer and heavy duty ones I will be using a lot more screws with it. So a screw with a 35,000 psi strength will have a factor of safety over over 2. That's a single screw. If you do 3 screws per slide your factor of safety jumps to 12. If you use 6 screws per slide you safety factor jumps to 24. What this means it's seriously over built and under designed. They include so many screw holes in the slides so you have the flexibility to install the provided screws in convenient locations. If the package provides enough screws to fill 3 holes on each slide you don't need to provide your own to install more screws. I don't know what material they make screws out of but generally structural steel strength is 60,000 psi not 35,000 psi so i added more safety in there as well. The bottom line is keep over building but know that you don't NEED to. If you run out of screws your drawer bottom is going to break more likely before the screws sheer off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 So what factor of safety is good? Lol So you are saying I would be just fine with 2 screws in each slide? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 One thing I didn’t consider was how tight the dust collection. I am thinking of a 90*fitting for it? Got it finally adjusted for the perfect height I feel. And the distance between the 2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 25, 2018 Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 What I worry about with slides is the repeated opening and then slamming shut working the screws loose. I keep boxes of several diameter & length screws for attaching hardware. Flat head, pan head & round head. If screws are included with your hardware - Asian made screws I just toss in the trash. European & USA made are usually ok. But if I've got a screw that's a little longer I will use it. Test on scrap to prevent a screw making a bump or coming through . I get real compulsive when mounting slides. The slide in the case needs to be exactly 90 degrees to the face of the cabinet. The drawer section needs to be very parallel to the drawer box. The case section may need to be slightly in from the face of the cabinet, read the specifications and follow them ! The slide members in the case must be parallel to each other ! If your case is slightly narrower in the front or back the drawer isn't going to fit well. If the drawer isn't perfectly square & parallel your gonna have issues too. Those tabs on the case sections can be flexed to compensate for slight inaccuracies of the case to drawer fit. I use plastic laminate sample chips as shims when the fit isn't perfect. Slides & new replacement drawers I built for a 1950's mid century modern kitchen in 1983 were still working fine 28 years later when the whole kitchen was redone. I replaced the rest of the original drawers at that time ( all of those were falling apart ) . Client said she saw no reason to do anything to my 1983 drawers except clean & tighten screws. I got 1/8 to 1/4 turn on most of those screws. Very few were tight after all those years. This sort of attention to detail is rare these days but it does pay off. My grandfather taught me to do it right the first time. Fitting drawers into new accurately built cabinets is easier than replacing one in an old cabinet but both situations demand close attention to tiny details. It's like laying floors, do it right at first and you can walk on it for decades ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 so building has been put on a little hold ... the 101-8 dovetail bit I am using is bigger than the 1/4" collet I have for my router ... Ordered 1 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-Precision-Reducer-Overall/dp/B000P4ULRS/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000P4ULRS&pd_rd_r=ZHME0J29P9823ZX8JWKB&pd_rd_w=4vYbr&pd_rd_wg=ru0b3&psc=1&refRID=ZHME0J29P9823ZX8JWKB Then I contacted Leigh support and they pointed me to this: https://www.leighjigs.com/cutters-d4.php#cart One 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer 1 1/4" long. Required for all 8mm shank bits. So now I have 2 options on the way ... hopefully one if not both will work for me and I can continue on the drawers. Although not a complete waste of time since my slides are still being shipped. Should get them this week as well so later in the week or weekend I can knock out the 3 drawers and get my heavy stuff on them to see how well they do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted May 29, 2018 Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 I think your best bet is the one from Leigh, its the one i have and it works well. the only thing to remember is that its a reducer and if it's not tight it will slip and ruin the piece you're working on, you know how i know this someone makes an 8mm collect for routers (i use a Porter Cable) and its on my short list of things i want to buy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted May 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2018 1 hour ago, treeslayer said: I think your best bet is the one from Leigh, its the one i have and it works well. the only thing to remember is that its a reducer and if it's not tight it will slip and ruin the piece you're working on, you know how i know this someone makes an 8mm collect for routers (i use a Porter Cable) and its on my short list of things i want to buy. haha, you wouldn't have by chance had one slip while working on a piece did you? Yes, I will be using the Leigh first, but did not hear back from Leigh support and found the other one on amazon while I waited haha. For $7 I was willing to risk it and if I have 2 that work, then I now have a good backup if I ever need one ... if not, well I lost a lunch. Or just keep it around for other router bits, so not a complete loss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted June 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2018 Finally finished 90% of it and finished to the point I want to be. Now I am just going to use it for a few projects and see if I can figure out where I want the rest of things to go. Still deciding which spot I want the sander and air compressor in ... I think if I run the air hose to the near side in the pic it will be easier to use than down by the tablesaw though. If that’s the case then I’ll keep it the way it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 2, 2018 Report Share Posted June 2, 2018 Well if your pullout hold the 735 then it should hold just about anything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 2, 2018 Report Share Posted June 2, 2018 Looking great! The down side to having the 735 down there is picking it up! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted June 3, 2018 Report Share Posted June 3, 2018 1 hour ago, ..Kev said: Looking great! The down side to having the 735 down there is picking it up! Yeah, I noticed, that as I get older that so called 92 pound planer starts weighing a hell of a lot more than any 92 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 3, 2018 Report Share Posted June 3, 2018 Move the planer drawer up as high as possible. Pull it out, squat & plane short pieces right where it is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted June 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2018 Looking great! The down side to having the 735 down there is picking it up! Haha. True. Move the planer drawer up as high as possible. Pull it out, squat & plane short pieces right where it is. I will take a look tomorrow and see how much I can actually move it up. Not sure there is too much room but I will check. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 3, 2018 Report Share Posted June 3, 2018 It's the reason I went to a dedicated planer cart. It hooks up to my table to make things easy but, there was no way in hell I was going to pick that thing up each time I needed to mill lumber. If that was my option, I'd probably buy a lot more S4S 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 3, 2018 Report Share Posted June 3, 2018 Not for nothing and I’m sure I have a few years up on ya, but tha mofo is heavy, and I’m assuming this is for storage, otherwise you’ll have knee problems real soon. I’m with Kev, build yourself a dedicated planer cart. I’m not sure this would be substantial enough for the 735. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted June 3, 2018 Report Share Posted June 3, 2018 Looking great! It's hard to tell, is the lip low enough on the planer drawer that you can use it in place? I feel like I need a solution like this, so I don't have all this stuff on the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 3, 2018 Report Share Posted June 3, 2018 Maybe you could jury rig 2 pair of those kitchen mixer lift hardware onto one shelf. A single pair is rated for 60 lbs. I imagine a counterweighted lift would be possible but very time consuming. Having said that my lunchbox planer lives on a shelf under my outfeed table and it's not that bad to grab it then lean back and swing one corner up on the table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwacked Posted June 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2018 Maybe you could jury rig 2 pair of those kitchen mixer lift hardware onto one shelf. A single pair is rated for 60 lbs. I imagine a counterweighted lift would be possible but very time consuming. Having said that my lunchbox planer lives on a shelf under my outfeed table and it's not that bad to grab it then lean back and swing one corner up on the table. Hmmmm I may have to look into that! Curious how expensive that mixer lift hardware is ...So it’s about 17” tall.. to clear the top cross brace it needs to be less than 23 1/2”ish so I can really only move it up about 6” which doesn’t seem worth the hassle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 5, 2018 Report Share Posted June 5, 2018 My mixer is 16 1/2" tall. https://www.cabinetparts.com/p/revashelf-organizers-kitchen-organizers-RVRASMLHDSC?gclid=CjwKCAjwo87YBRBgEiwAI1LkqSclXNmuaNBkTEcltisZNfcqjW3y0-Ucz3Qe25kx8FI51syKdQzZjxoCrKkQAvD_BwE but I'm not sure it would work in tandem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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