drzaius Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Yes, that last pass should be extremely light. That makes it easier for you and the router to make a clean, straight cut. It also allows you to feed the router fast enough that you don't get burning or glazing. And pay particular attention to keeping the router base plate tight & flat against the counter surface. I find it help to rub a little candle wax on the base plate & on the straightedge to they slide smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Keep an eye on your bit building up resin when doing cuts like these. Clean the bit before resin & heat lead to rapid dulling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkearns10 Posted October 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Thanks guys, this is a behemoth of a bit and needs to be extra nuanced. I think for my longer piece I'm going to just rip 1/16-1/32" and just try again. Very light feather-routing. So I ordered my sink and I ran into an issue....I found the perfect sink on amazon for my corner cabinet, stainless steel and perfect dimensions etc., but it has a center hole cutout. Would this be a giant no-no for eating into the limited miter in the back corner? I could try to slightly offset it so that the hole falls on one side of the joint but that might look ridiculous? Or just biscuit and bolt as much as I can in front and behind the joint? Conversely, what I thought might be possible was to fill in the sink hole with a piece of stainless, and to drill a new/secondary sink hole on the side of the sink. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 How much distance from where the faucet cutout would be & the back corner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkearns10 Posted November 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Roughly 16"-17" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 I don't think the faucet hole would cause a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkearns10 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Here's an update for you guys... take it easy on me I beg! hah Slightly wonky front corner on the one piece, so don't take that miter as final! So my one run of butcher is limited by a side wall in terms of length to play with, so I've cut this piece to as close as I can get it to final placement (the right piece in the picture). My left piece is not capped by any wall or obstruction so I have length to play with and left this piece slightly long in hopes of getting the miter (close to) perfect and then trimming the back end. But for the life of me I'm not sure how I ended up with this long miter. My right and final miter is around 35" on the dot in terms of the length of the miter itself. So how can I amend this bad boy given this lip/overhang? I know it's probably something simple but would just like to pick your guys' brain. The difference between the two miter tips is probably 3/8". Maybe 1/2". If I keep the front corner, is it possible to just shift the cut point BACK say the 3/8" to the left to accomodate the gap? Or would that simply screw up the angle to a non-45?, I guess my question here is.....what should I use as a reference point to cut the new miter? Should I completely plane shift to the left by the 3/8" at both the front and back corner and cut a fresh 45? Bear with me here guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Hmm... Are the 2 slabs the same width? Either that or both those cuts are not at the same angle. The miter will not necessarily be 45*, but they should both be the same angle. At this point you can't do anything with the right hand slab, cause you have no more length to play with, right? So now we need a little more information: - How thick is your back splash tile. Is it enough to hide that gap? - Are both slabs sitting parallel to the cabinet fronts right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkearns10 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Exactly. Right slab has no length to play with....BUT I can see there being some wiggle room to adjust if I fix my walls a bit. Framing is out of whack and there's some major bows in both walls keeping me from being able to truly get these things in square. Given that I'll be tiling I'm going to trim the sheetrock the height of the backsplash and true up the studs, maybe plane out the bows actually. Then reinstall the rock and see what these look like with a flat wall. Do you think that might alleviate some of the issue? Maybe get after that and try again and see how things look? Both slabs are 25" on the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 I have never seen a one cut miter fix except where a saw kerf will trim the butted pieces. The wall make this a no-go unless you can exactly match that setup in your shop. I think you are left to trim half the gap off of each piece until the pieces meet. I am so sorry to hit this thread so late, but this is why counter top guys mock up with lathe or 1/4” ply strips to map wall irregularities and the 24” projection. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkearns10 Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Going to bust into these walls and true some things up and give these a go once more, and check back in. I suppose taking that small notch out of the back corner wouldn't be a big deal and would be covered by backsplash and thinset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 You have agonized over this for a month. Your poor spouse has to be at her wits end by now. Me-thinks you jumped into the deep end of the pool before learning to swim. Having said that after a few cocktails , cutting into the sheetrock is an old carpenters trick we try to hide from wives & clients. I use a osselating multi tool with a saw blade to cut the wallboard. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkearns10 Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 5 hours ago, wdwerker said: You have agonized over this for a month. Your poor spouse has to be at her wits end by now. Me-thinks you jumped into the deep end of the pool before learning to swim. Having said that after a few cocktails , cutting into the sheetrock is an old carpenters trick we try to hide from wives & clients. I use a osselating multi tool with a saw blade to cut the wallboard. You bet man! It's moreso a family home that I took under my wing when my pops got too old to handle. So I'm renovating with intent to sell or rent. Not sure yet. But you're absolutely right man! I'm definitely the ready shoot aim type with probably too much confidence in my abilities, but I guess I just try to remain humble and be a hyper-learner. I'm truly grateful for all the help everyone has given me on this forum and it's all with the best intentions to learn, so I apologize ahead of time if I seem scattered. I was thinking of truing up some bows and waves in this wall to give me a better flush job on the counters, and since I need to tile the backsplash anyway.... are you saying guys will literally just knock out the sheetrock entirely where the counter is and slide it underneath to create the illusion of flush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 I have cut the face of the drywall paper and dug into the gypsum core to get a countertop to fit better.. Cutting all the way through the drywall does happen but only. as a last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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