Outfeed Table/work bench/assembly table

[John Hall]

I am designing an outfeed table/work bench/ assembly table.  I am limited on space and was hoping to have a multi-purpose table/bench.  I have attached a preliminary drawing so comments, suggestions and recommendations are greatly appreciated.  I do have a couple questions.

1.  What material should I use for top?  How should I attach it so it can be easily replaced when needed?  

2.  T-tracks, dog holes, or both?

3.  Leveling legs are from Rocklers.  How would using leveling legs to raise table up 1 or 2 inches affect stability of table and should I be concerned about sagging if the table is approx. 4'x5'?

 

[Chestnut]

1. I've seen a lot of people post about easily replaceable tops and none of them in many many years have replaced their tops. You could go MDF or hardwood. MDF is nice and stable. No matter the route build a few good coats of poly on it. This way glue won't stick and it should receive minimal damage. If you are planning on cutting with a track saw on it get some pink rigid insulation and cut into that instead.

2. I can't answer this one i have neither on mine and just use clamps around the edge.

3. I use elevator bolts in T-nuts to level my out-feed table and it is sufficiently stable. They probably make rubber elevator bolts that can do the same thing. As long as they are in contact with the ground evenly you'll have enough weight that things shouldn't budge. I have a torsion box style assembly table 6' x 2' and have used it sitting on sawhorses for a couple years and it never bowed. I suggest making the top torsion style and you shouldn't have any issues.

[gee-dub]

First of all, WELCOME! 

I used tempered hardboard for my new Outfeed/Assembly table as I had a previous worktable that used that and is still in service at its new home.  It is 15 years old.  I made it replaceable but, it is still fine.  I went with dog holes and slots for clamping. The tempered hardboard is already decently sealed.  I just paste wax it a few times a year.

You can probably see that the whole upper assembly comes off with 3/8" threaded knobs.  These positions then align with my workbench top for times that I want a large, elevated surface at the bench for an extended period of time . .. so far . . . twice.  Probably could've done without that feature 

The slots have been a great idea though.

[..Kev]

This is my OF/work table.  The top isn't replaceable but, at 4" thick, it's certainly able to be sanded and refinished when needed.  I added storage and dog holes as well as a split top which is super handy for clamping as well as breaking down sheet goods.  I just remove the center and have a place for the blade to go.  I also put a BC leg vise and an HNT Gordon tail vise on it.

Full build videos are on my YT channel.

Welcome to the forums!

[Chet]

Welcome to the forums John.

[pkinneb]

Welcome!! I used laminate over a MDF torsion box for my latest one the one before that was plywood with laminate and lasted about 15 years before going to my son in law for his shop.

[Ronn W]

I would consider moving th vise to the left side of the table - that is the left isde of whichever side of the table you will be working from.  Reverse if left handed.