The "Lunch After Thanksgiving" Desk

[Chet]

3 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

@Chet, what product was that? GF isn't commonly available around here, I might need to investigate Benjamin Moore.

This is the primer and paint I used from Benjamin Moore.  It also comes in quarts.  You can spray, brush or roll it.  I was going to spray it but ended up rolling it for a few different reasons but I was extremely happy with how it rolled on.  I used a real short nap mohair roller I picked up in the B.M. store.  I brushed in the tight corners and rolled everything else.   The primer is one of the nicest ones I have used.  The broacher for the Cabinet Coat has a fair number of colors but they can mix it in almost all the colors they have in the color inventory.

 

[wtnhighlander]

Thanks, Chet! We have PPG and SW stores, but the only source for Benjamin Moore is an interior decorator in town. I'll see if they carry those products.

Meanwhile, I found another local place that carries some GF products, so I picked up some milk paint and HP topcoat to test. 

[wtnhighlander]

So, a little shop time this afternoon got me through building drawer boxes, adding some spacer blocks inside the case, and slathering Bondo all over stuff.

I used a variation of the 1/4, 1/4, 1/4 method to make the boxes. 3/4" sidewalls and 1/4" ply bottom. Does anyone else have to assemble the sides and mark where the bottom groove goes to avoid cutting the wrong edge?

Impromptu pinch-sticks are awesome for gauging the bottom panel dimensions.

So, this is as far as I got today. Probably pick it back up on Saturday. Merry Christmas, and God bless us, everyone!

[wtnhighlander]

So, the top of each leg attaches inside the case. Not satisfied with just glue and/or screws, I made some splines to add mechanical connection.

Initially a bit too wide, I clamped them in my end visean used the benchtop as a "fence" to rip the small pieces to size.

The top of the leg slips over the spline, like so...

I also routed a profile on the undeside of the top, shown here bottom-up.

I really need a DC attachment for this new router...

Last, the beading is installed on the lower edge of the case.

The details are starting to coalesce...I think it is going to work out pretty well.

[wtnhighlander]

More progress, and a couple of tips for the uninitiated. When adding mitered trim around a panel, use a piece of the same trim against a reference surface, like my saw fence shown here, to mark the exact length needed for the piece.

I use my "B1 Bomber" sled, since I have no miter saw. The weird fence system was added to support crown molding for a kitchen upgrade.

While fitting these drawer fronts -

I used shims cut from soda can stock. No poker deck handy. For reference, the can mics at 5 thou.

Almost done with construction. Surface prep will occupy my next few sessions while I wait for paint to be delivered.

[Chet]

42 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said:

More progress, and a couple of tips for the uninitiated. When adding mitered trim around a panel, use a piece of the same trim against a reference surface, like my saw fence shown here, to mark the exact length needed for the piece.

I don't consider myself totally uninitiated but I am always willing to learn and this is one I have never seen but will be using going forward.  Thanks Ross

And I don't mean to pick on your woodworking but that sled looks more like a B2 Bomber.

[Coop]

Good idea about using the fence. I have made several projects using the same style trim including the pieces that will hold the glass in my door. In doing so, I would cut a right and left piece from off cuts as guides. As my cuts are probably not as accurate as yours, I cut them a tad long and sneak up on them by putting the edge very snug against the stopped blade and hold them in that position which will take just a sliver off with each cut. I always make extra stock as every once in a while, the long side will become a short side. 

[wtnhighlander]

@Coop, I do the same for the final fit, butting the cut against the saw plate and pulling the sled back across the teeth to remove very fine amounts.

[Coop]

It makes for multiple trips to the ts but sure makes for tight joints! 

[Chestnut]

Nice tip I'll need to remember that one!

[TerryMcK]

Looking good Ross

[Mark J]

12 hours ago, Coop said:

sneak up on them by putting the edge very snug against the stopped blade and hold them in that position which will take just a sliver off with each cut. 

 

12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I do the same for the final fit, butting the cut against the saw plate and pulling the sled back across the teeth to remove very fine amounts.

I'm not following this.  Is the motor on or are you turning the blade by hand? 

Are you butting the work piece against the center of the blade, then pulling it backward into the bottoms of the teeth?

[wtnhighlander]

@Mark J, I can't speak for Ken, but my method is to raise the blade so that the carbide is completely above the work piece. With the blade spinning and the work retracted a bit, advance the miter sled so that the work aligns to the middle of the saw blade. Push the work into the side of the saw plate, hold it firmly in place against the sled fence, the draw the sled backward so that the work brushes the sides of the teeth. The angles involved allow the carbide teeth to push the work away from the blade, so that only the slightest bit of material is removed. Powered version of a miter shooting (chuting?) board.

[Chestnut]

I do a similar process but with an added step. I push the piece against the stopped blade. If i need to remove 2 hairs i put a bit of force on the pieces to deflect the blade a hair. Then i retract the piece start the blade and make the cut. I do this on the miter saw as well as the table saw.

I think Ross's idea above is the same thing just with out my added step.

[Coop]

Mine is basically the same but with the blade not turning. I press the wood against the blade snug and draw the piece back, then turn on the saw and run it thru. 

[wtnhighlander]

Since it is going under paint anyway, I used automotive glazing putty as a grain filler. Save a few $$, and seems to dry a bit faster.

And now, for all you walnut lovers ...

This GF Milk Paint is like spreading mayo on a BLT. I'm gonna switch to a foam brush.

Or maybe a butterknife!

[RichardA]

Spatula!

[wtnhighlander]

Working on the paint today. I used some Antique White that didn't meet the client's approval, as a base coat, to see how well it covered. This stuff goes a lot farther than I expected.

This illustrates why rushing is a bad idea. This was the last joint glued in, and I didn't take great pains to remove all signs of squeeze-out, since paint would cover it. However, the glue, which appeared dry, still shrank a bit after the paint dried, leaving a crackly finish to scrape off.

To that end, let me recommend this as a highly useful addition to anyone's collection:

The folding handle keeps it handy in a pocket, the steel holds an edge surprisingly well, and the structure is sturdy enough to take a bit if pounding, when needed. Great for scraping glue or paring away the odd sliver. I only wish it was narrower, as 1" doesn't fit into a lot of places.

FYI, the actual color coat chosen is Gulfstream Blue. Photos pending ...

[Chet]

I remember Steve (wdwerker) talking numerous times about the process involved when painting a project versus just finishing.  Every little flaw or crack or seam gets magnified by the paint process, it just really stands out as apposed to say using a finish like ARS.

His words were ringing in my ears when I was doing my kitchen.  You sand and prime and sand and prime, once that looks good you can feel safe putting you paint on.

[wtnhighlander]

Steve was not wrong. 

Anyway, the GF Milk Paint levels nicely, and dries fast. Makes up for a lot of my poor technique. I got 3 coats on, and dry enough to lay down some High Performance. With a little help.

With the space heater cranked up in my tiny shop, the clear is fully dry to the touch already. Instructions say to wait 2 hours between coats, but I think one is going to be enough. Expect an in-situ photo by noon tomorrow!

[Coop]

Now with the drivers license, once he gets his hands on an automobile, I hope you don’t loose your helper

[wtnhighlander]

He'll have to get his hands on a paying job, first! 

[Coop]

You two are tight like my son and me and that’s cool! 

[wtnhighlander]

Final installment. First, I flipped the case upside-down to attach the top. The front edge is screwed through a cleat that was glued across the inside of the upper apron rail. Icepick helps re-align the screw holes.

To attach the rear edge, expansion of the top must be respected. Newbies may be confused by the references to "figure eights", Z-clips", or "furniture buttons" they see in this forum. I know I was. Just understand those devices allow the top panel to expand and contract without coming loose from the case. Given that those devices are "specialty" hardware, not available in the typical home center or neighborhood hardware store, here I show an alternative:

Angle brackets, washers, and metal straps are found in every home center I have visited. Used together, they provide a suitable replacement for those specialty fasteners.

Note, the angle bracket is only attached to the apron, not the top (photo taken with desk still inverted). The strap is attached across the angle bracket, with washers to keep it from over-tightening. Now the top can move it 2 axes, but not the third.

Another frugal woodworker tip:

Bits of scrap ply stack together as a depth stop to avoid blowing throw the outside surface.

Now for the big reveal!

So far, the "client" is happy. I would be happier with a sprayed finish, so I plan to experiment with spray setups as weather allows. 

Thanks for following along!

 

[Chestnut]

The wood on the drill bit tip is a good one. I've used blue tape and sharpie as well to give a depth indication.

I really like how this project turned out. The painted color looks great. I assume you want to spray because there is a slight brush texture to the surface and you want it to be smooth?

The trim on the drawer fronts and bottom edge really set the piece off. Did you cover how you made the trim pieces in the journal? If you did i must have missed them and should go back.