Milling Your Own vs s4s

[pkinneb]

On 5/5/2022 at 11:00 AM, BillyJack said:

Looking at the prices, I want to know exactly what I'm buying before I pay for it

LOL good point!!

[Coop]

I’ve never worked with hard (sugar) maple until today and I see where it gets it’s name! After several passes on the jointer, I realized that it was time to sharpen the blades. It helped considerably but I also dropped $100 on some carbide blades from Infinity. Per ounce, they are probably more expensive than the A holes are getting for the catalytic converters that are getting stolen from vehicles around here. 

[gee-dub]

On 5/4/2022 at 3:15 PM, pkinneb said:

I prefer rough not becuase of cost but becuase because it provides the ability to mill to the thickness I want, which a lot of times is not 3/4" 

This is me too.  As is so often the case the answer is "it depends".  If I have to increase my waste amount to yield the material I am after the savings gap between "done" and "DIY" gets smaller. 

As an example one of my early workbench bases was made from dimensional "2X" material to save money.  My waste volume was so high to get usable material that the cost was greater than using a higher quality product.  I have used poplar ever since.

If I am making a kitchen full of cabinets that will be stained to the point of nearly qualifying as paint, figure selection becomes much less important.  If I am doing a buffet that will have a finish that accents the natural beauty of the wood, project part selection becomes much more important to the quality of the piece.

Both processes are "right".  However, each process is seldom "right" for the other IMHO.

[curlyoak]

I needed a few pieces 3/4 x 1 and 3/4 x 1 1/4" of flat sawn soft maple. I knew when I ripped it would loose the flatness I gave it with the jointer. And the straight edge was at risk also. So flattened on one side rough on the other I ripped my needed pieces 1 1/8" plus and the other 1 3/8" all 37" long. My need was half the length but I guessed the wood would behave at twice the length to save labor. After the rips the wood did some contortions but I had plenty of stock to re-joint the wood and make a second rip that did not contort.

If you bought dressed lumber and rips make the lumber contort what recourse do you have?

[BillyJack]

Anytime to take a larger board and make it smaller it can contort.. That's the million question.

[Woodworking_Hobby]

Here where I can get hardwood lumber it is usually always cheaper to get it in the rough but I can pay the mill to surface and straight line rip if needed. The only time I have done that is when I was buying the 8/4 hard maple for the workbench build and had them skip plane it done and add an edge so it was easier for me to work the long boards. I guess I am kind of a nerd and for me I enjoy the milling process. There is something about taking the rough and old looking piece of wood and opening up the beautiful wood and grain inside. Although I am a hobby woodworker so I can understand if you have lots of wood or are making something for your business you might not have the extra time it can take to mill all of the parts.  Also I end up buying extra to deal with the issues that arise when milling and to have spare parts if something goes wrong in the build. That could add up quick if you are buying lots of B.F but in my case it is usually a very small cost. 

[curlyoak]

On 5/8/2022 at 3:02 PM, Woodworking_Hobby said:

your business you might not have the extra time it can take to mill all of the parts.

If in the business of woodworking you cant afford not milling. I have added on straight line if I have parts that are long. And

 a straight line cut is a savings on the first step.

On 5/8/2022 at 11:43 AM, BillyJack said:

Anytime to take a larger board and make it smaller it can contort.. That's the million question.

 That is why starting in the rough and cutting wider gives you a fighting chance to true up the piece. If you start with boards already dressed, make a contorted rip, you just made fire wood. After cutting wide but near the dimension most if not all the grain tensions been released.

[roughsawn]

On 5/2/2022 at 10:06 PM, Coop said:

Just wondered about the difference in cost.Has anyone ever compared your cost of milled s4s lumber against the cost of rough cut lumber, taking into consideration of the waste, say getting 4/4 down to 3/4”? 

I have close to $10,000 worth of rough sawn oak and walnut, both in my shop...and outside. I paid $125.00 for the first batch, and $175.00 for the second batch...to my sawmill guy. Trees I cut down, and took to the sawmill. I can do a lot of jointing and planing for $9,000.00. And I get what I want when I do.

[roughsawn]

I lied. I forgot about the first trip, 3 years ago. Add $150.00 for the saw mill...lol

[BillyJack]

On 5/8/2022 at 2:33 PM, curlyoak said:

If in the business of woodworking you cant afford not milling. I have added on straight line if I have parts that are long. And

 a straight line cut is a savings on the first step.

 That is why starting in the rough and cutting wider gives you a fighting chance to true up the piece. If you start with boards already dressed, make a contorted rip, you just made fire wood. After cutting wide but near the dimension most if not all the grain tensions been released.

Said nothing about "afford", sometimes there isnt  enough savings to  spend the time and equipment on.  I got guys that wont make cabinet doors for the same reason. I know one shop that  has parts precut and orders doors

 He makes enough on assembly and finishing to stay away from cutting process. 

If you want to spend your time processing lumber, by all means do so. 

There are shops that by premade panel blanks, face stock already donensioned, etc. 

I got 3 sets to get out in 2 weeks. Roughly 4 days each set.  You dont have time to waste.

.

[Coop]

Initial question was about price comparison and some of you answered that. Not that I as a “hobbyists “ with a jointer and a planer, would ever consider stopping at the finished wood isle. Just for the helluva it, on my next visit, I will make some notes on the true difference in the two in my area. I have at times, seen folks shopping in the finished area and most appeared to be contractors with customers in tow. Looked to be a one time finish type deal or an occasional fellow with no calloused hands.

[BillyJack]

Time is money , even for hobby woodworker.

If your happy with the time you spend milling lumber, that's all good....

Busing finished wood at what isle?

[curlyoak]

On 5/9/2022 at 11:07 AM, BillyJack said:

If your happy with the time you spend milling lumber, that's all good....

I just don't have the money to turn good hardwood into fire wood. Or do I want my work to have crooked wood. Equipment to dress lumber is a must.

[BillyJack]

If you've Segen  my scraps , you know I don't waste..

I don't recall getting wood crooked enough it couldn't be worked with. If your buying a lot, you need nice equipment, if your making jewelry boxex you may not want to invest much in a planer and jointer. 

I don't have a jointer and no plans to buy one..