tperson Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 Here’s the skinny: Our oldest (15) is making a walnut gun cabinet in highschool woods class and he’s getting close to start finishing. Our typical regiment is clear shellac, orange shellac, clear shellac, followed by some 50/50 polyurethane rubbed on. Makes a beautiful, lightweight finish. Here’s the problem: I was speaking with the shop teacher at parent-teacher conferences and he said that they really don’t have the space to spray shellac…crap. I’m (now) thinking we should be able to tint the poly and get similar results. I splashed a little orange shellac on a white paper towel last night and let it dry. After it dried, I compared it to the color chart on Mixol’s website…it looks like yellow oxide is a pretty close match (at least comparing my phone screen to the paper towel). Here’s the question: Anyone tried to match the color of orange shellac by tinting poly? I’m fairly comfortable with water-based aniline pigments for dyes, but tinting poly is new territory. I one time tinted some blonde shellac with transtint…the results weren’t stellar, but I was the only one that thought so. Wide open to suggestions and advice. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 26 Report Share Posted February 26 On 2/26/2024 at 9:26 AM, tperson said: I was speaking with the shop teacher at parent-teacher conferences and he said that they really don’t have the space to spray shellac Just an option, I wipe on shellac all the time. I am using shellac made from flakes and DNA, not store bought pre-made shellac. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 27 Report Share Posted February 27 @Chet You got me into spraying shellac but I’ve never tried to wipe it. I know that it dries coming out of the gun almost before it hits the wood. Is it a little more forgiving using a rag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 27 Report Share Posted February 27 Shellac is commonly 'wiped on' in the French polish technique. I have used this method several times, using a lot of alcohol, and a little mineral oil to lubricate the wiping pad so it doesn't stick as the shellac dries. However, it IS a sloooow process. Smoothness isn't the only advantage of spraying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 27 Report Share Posted February 27 On 2/26/2024 at 5:21 PM, Coop said: Is it a little more forgiving using a rag? Yes, I have found it better in getting a even appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roughsawn Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 I wipe on dewaxed shellac made from flakes, exclusively. Works great. You can tint the shellac, then wipe it on. Try some samples, I bet you can find what you like. Pretty refreshing to hear of a school letting students do/make/build anything having to do with guns. Hats off to the shop teacher! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tperson Posted February 28 Author Report Share Posted February 28 On 2/26/2024 at 2:26 PM, Chet said: Just an option, I wipe on shellac all the time. I am using shellac made from flakes and DNA, not store bought pre-made shellac. yeah, I thought of that...but he's 15. I've tried to wipe it on and have struggled...and I'm 3x his age! On 2/28/2024 at 10:38 AM, roughsawn said: I wipe on dewaxed shellac made from flakes, exclusively. Works great. You can tint the shellac, then wipe it on. Try some samples, I bet you can find what you like. Pretty refreshing to hear of a school letting students do/make/build anything having to do with guns. Hats off to the shop teacher! part of the hidden benefit of a country high-school in a flyover state! Our most recent state motto was "It's not for everybody", but it certainly works for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roughsawn Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 29 Report Share Posted February 29 Another vote for padding it on. That’s probably because that is the way I have good success with it. Conversely I often have trouble spraying so, there you go;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tperson Posted March 1 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 1 Okay gents, an update. My Mixol came in the mail yesterday and I was playing around with tinting my poly last night. I kept adding drops to a pint of 50/50 poly until I got the color pretty close, it took 225 drops of yellow and about 100 drops of transtint amber to get there. It’s pretty stinking close when applied. A little concerning, I noticed that the mixol was settling to the bottom of the bag and really didn’t like to stay in suspension. I left it overnight and it separated (see picture) but was easy enough to re-suspend by shaking/squeezing…what the heck? I took a look at Mixol’s website this morning and, the only thing that I can see is, maybe I need a better mixing apparatus. Thoughts on a better mixing device? I doubt the boss will let me use her VitaMix blender…but that’d be perfect. Mixol datasheet: https://www.mixol.com/content/allg_anwendertipps_gb-807.pdf 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 2 Report Share Posted March 2 I don't think better mixing is going to make a difference. It looks like the dye is not dissolving in the finish/solvent. Sort of like vinegar & oil, they're not going ro blend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 I think you need a multi-layer approach. You need a layer that can impart your color, and need to find a carrier that will work with the tint. If I recall correctly, TransTint, in your picture, has a specific formulation that is not universal. It goes better into alcohol and water, if you do not have a finish that has an emulsifier in it. That has led me to tint shellac as a base for color, if I find the color not mixing in the finish. This may well be the approach you need to use. Tint first, then poly over. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted March 6 Report Share Posted March 6 Correct me if I am wrong but Mixol is a pigment, not a dye. Pigments are particles in suspension and will naturally separate. I beleive the instruction are to chake well before opening. Dyes like transtint do not need to be shaken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tperson Posted March 7 Author Report Share Posted March 7 On 3/4/2024 at 7:06 AM, Tpt life said: I think you need a multi-layer approach. You need a layer that can impart your color, and need to find a carrier that will work with the tint. If I recall correctly, TransTint, in your picture, has a specific formulation that is not universal. It goes better into alcohol and water, if you do not have a finish that has an emulsifier in it. That has led me to tint shellac as a base for color, if I find the color not mixing in the finish. This may well be the approach you need to use. Tint first, then poly over. Thanks Tpt, great suggestion and a path forward. Sorry I haven't responded earlier...haven't hardly been in the shop for the past couple of weeks. On 3/6/2024 at 2:18 PM, Ronn W said: Correct me if I am wrong but Mixol is a pigment, not a dye. Pigments are particles in suspension and will naturally separate. I beleive the instruction are to chake well before opening. Dyes like transtint do not need to be shaken. Very interesting comment...would certainly explain the settling. I'll do some digging and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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