Hanging Hand Tool Cabinet

[pkinneb]

Laid out a face frame to determine the size of the panels I will need. Pekovich split his (with the center rail) in half but I think I will do like 40 - 60 like this

Then I spent way to much time trying to determine WTH these marks, on all the rails and stiles, were for. After about 30 min I realized they are not cut to final width and these were marks to tell me which side to trim 

Next I cut out the BB for the panel cores. A bit brisk at 5 degrees and windy but got it done lol

Cut to final size at the table saw

Then marked and cut the panel veneers to final size for glue up

Fronts:

Back side:

With that done I cleaned up the edges with a hand plane and started taping the veneers for glue up.

That should work

Then rinse and repeat on the outside faces

Glue them up, just using yellow glue for these

...and into the bag they go (one panel at a time)

No pics but the second panel is in the bag now.

 

 

[Coop]

Great grain match! 
5*? 

[pkinneb]

First up today I cut the panels so I had good edges on both sides. Side note: I am going to try and pick up some poplar tomorrow to make the inside door and till slabs using Philip Morley's rip and flip lumber core technique. While the BB worked "ok" it did not stay perfectly flat. While not an issue here becuase the panels are captured on all four sides I want the till and inside doors staying perfectly flat or as close to that as I can get. 

Question for the forum: I used yellow glue (TB) on one and it stayed pretty flat may maybe an 1/8" over 42" inches on the other I only had TB3 and it was out about 1/2" over 42", Thoughts??

Next it was time to cut some groves. I set up the table saw and a 1/4" dado blade and away I went

Next I changed the dado stack to a 1/2" amd buried a bit into the fence to do the flats

Then a quick swipe with a hand plan to get a good fit

With both frames complete that's it for today 

Next up I'll fit the panels to the door frames and glue them up and then to the other door frames. Once that's done I'll be ready to start on the inside components  

 

[wtnhighlander]

This is looking great! As for your glue question, TB3 always seems a little more "watery" than TB2 (just my observation). But unless you used TB2 on one face and TB3 on the opposing face, I don't see how it would make any difference. Maybe the longer working time of TB3 just gave the panel more time to move?

[Mark J]

Yeah, I'm not sure I would blame the glue.  Do you know if the plywood was flat before you applied the veneer? 

[pkinneb]

On 1/2/2026 at 8:58 PM, wtnhighlander said:

This is looking great! As for your glue question, TB3 always seems a little more "watery" than TB2 (just my observation). But unless you used TB2 on one face and TB3 on the opposing face, I don't see how it would make any difference. Maybe the longer working time of TB3 just gave the panel more time to move?

Agreed definitely more watery then the TB. I did use the same glue on both faces but left them in the press the same amount of time which was about 90 min. I'm thinking I should have left them in the press much longer but may run a test to see how that pans out. I did have them clamped to my bench over night and the one that cupped was on top meaning only one face was covered also thinking that could have played a roll. Thanks for your input!!

On 1/3/2026 at 8:09 AM, Mark J said:

Yeah, I'm not sure I would blame the glue.  Do you know if the plywood was flat before you applied the veneer? 

Agreed guessing it was user errors. The plywood was not perfectly flat, maybe out 1/6" over the length, but the one panel definitely cupped after applying the veneers  

[pkinneb]

First up today was to cut panels to size an easy task one might think right  (more on this later in the post)

Big sled out with long fence and stop

Fence pic above was set for the long panels apparently the cameraman missed that LOL

Then I set up the dado blade and fence and cut the dado's on the panels

Clean them up with a hand plane and walla looks pretty good right?

Until...

One would think a finance guy could do flipping math LOL certainly wasn't for a lack of trying 

 

Luckily it was an easy fix reset the dado stack by 1/16th of an inch and run the tops of both panels back through. Then reset the panel cutoff sled and fence up and cut the panel down to final size (no I mean it this time )

Now we're talking

Tomorrow I will clean them up and get them glued together and maybe glued to the door frames.

 

[pkinneb]

First up today I got sidetracked working on till size / layout. I was trying to determine what size the platform would be so I could start making the panel.

With that done I went through my remaining shop sawn veneer to see if I had enough, looks like I should for this at least.

Next I ran the door rails over the planer to add a little detail as laid out by Pekovich

Then I worked on cleaning up the four panels

Followed by the rails

Finally I was able to get one glued up today.

Tomorrow its back to work but I hope to get the other door glued up and this one attached to the door frame.

 

 

[Mark J]

I noticed that you have both a Hammer combination jointer planer, and an Oliver planer.  I'm curious why?

[pkinneb]

On 1/5/2026 at 7:06 AM, Mark J said:

I noticed that you have both a Hammer combination jointer planer, and an Oliver planer.  I'm curious why?

Two reasons really. The Hammer J/P has straight knives which work amazing for most work but in curly maple (which I use a fair bit) can be a bit of a pain, the other issue is when I need to plane a board quick because I messed up or miss judged what was needed its quicker. I saw the Oliver on sale for $899 which I felt was cheap enough to give it a try to decide whether upgrading the J/P to a helical head would be worth the cost and then I could resale the Oliver. Well after several years I can tell you yes the helical head is worth it for curly maple and no I decided to just keep them both rather than upgrade the J/P. Sorry for the long winded response 

Ultimately the $899 I paid for the Oliver would probably be one of my top 10 tool purchases of all time, its an awesome machine for a great price, although I think now they are $1,000 or $1,100. Still worth every penny in my book.

[pkinneb]

Not much time but was able to clean up and glue up the second door today

Next up glue them to the door frames. 

[pkinneb]

Another short night but took some time to put the cabinet / door frames / panels all in place so I could see what fine adjustments need to be made prior to glue up.

With the gaps all set correctly looks like I will need to trim about 1/16th of the left door panel and 3/32nds off the right at the TS. I also need to do a quick clean up on the top and bottom of the panels. Probably just use a hand plane on those.

Also pondering how to correct this bow (little less than a 1/16th) when I glue the panel to the left door frame. It's not bad but I don't want any binding on the hinges so best to solve it now.

 

[Coop]

I like your pulls cut int the bottom of the doors. Fantastic looking cabinet! 

[wtnhighlander]

Very nice! I think we often fail to give the light-colored woods the appreciation they deserve. Your grain and color selection makes this piece really stand out.

[Mark J]

+1

[pkinneb]

Finally got a little bit of time in the shop. I am always busy at work in the first qtr of the year and this year has been no exception.

After cutting the doors to size I cleaned up the edges with a hand plane 

Then glued up the first one

Decided to go a different route on the till. In an effort to make it just a titch smaller I am going to keep it to metal planes and I will put my #5 on a shelf in the lower section. Except I just realized I forgot the shoulder plane  Oh well pretty sure I can fit it in there.

Also in the lower section I will have drawers and a space with tambor doors. Not exactly sure what I'll store behind them but always wanted to try doing them so why not 

My rough plan subject to change at any moment. Gotta love my hand drill (brace) drawing skills huh 

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

Looks meticulous like the rest of your work @pkinneb. 

I should apologize in advance, I've got a hanging tool cabinet on the project list for this year and am probably going to be following you down this trail like a lost puppy. 

[pkinneb]

Was able to get the second door and frame glued up tonight

Also nailed down (I think) the general cabinet layout and maybe the final design below the till shelf. I'll store the #5 behind the tambor doors doing this will give me more room for additional drawer storage.

[pkinneb]

With the cabinet done its time to start knocking out the tool placement / holders.

First a quick clean up of the shop.

Then I worked on some layout. Starting with the left door, there will be a swing out inner door that will hold all my nice chisels, the beaters will stay in the cabinet drawer they are in today. 

Ok not going to lie I really need to knock out the rest of my handles so all the chisels with removable handles match. Please disregard the one in process 

My rasps will live behind the chisels. Not sure what will fill the extra space but we can deal with that later. For now I will work on the swing out door and holders.

...and yes I will be turning matching handles for the rasps too, OCD is real! This never bothered me when they were all in drawers but hanging where I can see them 

Next stop the lumber yard, I need some more stock

 

[Mark J]

Handsome work.  When it's done it's going to look great.

With the marvelous doors you're making, it's also going to be heavy as wall hangings go.  Do you know how your going to anchor it to the wall?  Will you mount the doors before or after the carcass goes on the wall?

'nuther question.  What are you using for the door hinges?  They are going to be under a lot of load.

[Von]

Looking great! I look forward to building something similar some day, so thanks for sharing.

[pkinneb]

On 1/16/2026 at 7:41 AM, Mark J said:

Handsome work.  When it's done it's going to look great.

With the marvelous doors you're making, it's also going to be heavy as wall hangings go.  Do you know how your going to anchor it to the wall?  Will you mount the doors before or after the carcass goes on the wall?

'nuther question.  What are you using for the door hinges?  They are going to be under a lot of load.

Thanks!

So the back is actually a French cleat the portion you see is screwed and glued to the case. The bottom portion not seen yet will be screwed to the studs than the case by itself will be mounted and screwed to the studs on the top portion. Then doors and tools will be added.

Going with these for the doors:

https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/pair-of-solid-brass-cabinet-hinges-3-inches-x-2-inches

and these for the inner doors

https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/antique-hinges-cabinet-steel

[Sergio Escudero]

I just discovered your post and I'm glad to see that your cabinet is almost identical to the one I was planning to build for my planes, although my doors were going to be much simpler. I'm saving your post to refer to in the future when I can make my cabinet. Great job!

[pkinneb]

Ok made it to the lumber store wasn't thrilled with my choices but it will work.

Time to start making tool holders, starting with the files. Cleaned up a stick, laid out for the holes, then headed to the drill press. For the folks asking about DP dust collection yeah not great LOL

Oh soo close 

That's better

Now it was time to knock out the riffler/ rasp brush holder

...and using some of the rasps / rifflers I cleaned up the mount

Then I cut a small recess in the back to catch the brush

After cutting a small relief curve in the bottom, for appearance, I glued it up. You can also see in this pic I made a holder for the Shinto as well.

You gotta love the grain match of the riffler holder to the door back 

Finally I started looking for the piece I would use for the tambor door as I know this will take me a while. I couldn't find anything like what I used on the door panels but this section, book matched, might look pretty cool. I will need to find really straight grain for the drawer fronts so there is not to much going on. Not totally sold on this but this is the direction I am currently pondering.

Tomorrow I plan to start on the inner doors I will do both sides at the same time so they match.

[Coop]

Now that’s fancy and fine! What type of wood is the last pic?