Size Does Matter... Miter saws anyone?


PurpLev

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Not having one, I was always curious about the choice of preference for miter saws among woodworkers. Coming from construction bigger was always better - so you'd see almost nothing but 12" miter saws on jobsites, but now that I am more into woodworking, I notice that miter saws aimed at woodworkers are actually 10" versions (Makita, Festool, Bosch, etc).

So, it got me curious - for woodworking purposes, why go 10" when you can go 12" what's the benefit of having a 10" over 12" ,or would you rather have a 12"

anyone?

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Personally, I would rather go 12". The only disadvantage I see is cost. But for many folks, a 10" saw has all the capacity they need. Especially if they have a sled or miter gauge that they use for the wider cross-cuts. Right now, I seem to depend on my miter saw for a lot of cross-cuts, so I appreciate the greater capacity.

Also, if you're doing trim work and you find yourself cutting wide molding, you'll be thankful for the the extra capacity.

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I have the DeWalt 10" and it works really well for my purposes. I actually have the 12" sitting in my basement as well but never pull it out of storage. The size of my "shop" (I use that term liberally) means that the extra footprint of the 12" is just that much more inconvenient. There have certainly been a few situations where I wished I could cut that extra couple of inches but it hasn't been frequent enough for me to justify keeping the big dog setup.

That may change when I need to build a 8' long table top out of a few of 12" boards, but until that day, the 10" does just fine.

That said, when I was building the porch on the back of my house the 12" was a game changer.

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I have a Makita 10". I use it mostly for crown and base molding. Unless the board is really long, I crosscut on the table saw. If the crosscut exceeds the capacity of my table saw (10" between miter gauge and blade), then I use the Festool MFT table. The miter saw was the first tool I bought and I bought it for "construction-like" things, where it excels. For rails, stiles, panels, I much prefer the table saw or MFT.

I guess I don't know in which context the question is asked. Intending it for molding? on-site work? Crosscutting rails/stiles?

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The question was very general in context, nothing specific in mind - just based on observation. I happen to notice after getting into woodworking, that most miter-saws in shops are 10" - so from the responses so far - it has to do with footprint and cost where the 10" is just more affordable (space and cost). and I guess if you have a sliding 10" it'll work for most flat boards.

good info - keep it coming if you have more to say.

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10" is the most common around here and what I prefer. Capacity is pretty close to that of a 12" and you have more blade selections available and home centers and contractor supply stores. Another reason I like 10" is the blades seem to be more stable with less flutter / run out, an important factor to me.

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I have a 10" and a 12" saw but in my little shop, which is only 12'X16', only the most used and heavier tools get a designated spot. The miter saws are on a storage shelf and only come out when needed. Even though the 12" has more capacity I find the 10" blade to be more stable and gets used probably three to one over the 12" saw.

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Thanks for the added input. didn't think of blade deflection!

From what I have seen it appears most furniture makers, cabinetmakers and finish carpenters go for the 10". A lot of rough & remodeling carpenters and deck builders etc go for the 12", their use of 4 x 4's and other large stock is a factor.

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I have a 10 year old DeWalt 12" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw. While I've heard many an argument about blade deflection and play in the rails I must say the only complaint I have it that it's footprint is too big for my current shop. After 10 years, with virtually no tune up and a Forest Chopmaster blade it remains absolutely dead accurate. I'd day most guys go for 10" because within woodworking 12" SCMS are considered too sloppy. Get a quality brand (DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, Milwaukee etc) and you'll be satisfied.

So to answer your question, I'd say buy the biggest one you can afford and fit in your shop.

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I have a 12 inch non sliding miter saw because a 10 or 12 inch sliding saw takes up too much room in my shop. most of my boards are within the 8 inch crosscut width of the 12 inch so it works well enough for me 80% of the time. That was a decent compromise for me and it's accurate enough for my needs.

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Manya years ago I was told that a 12" fixed saw is more accurate than a 10" slider, because of slop in the slides. I imagine that this depends on the manufacturer and model. They recommended a 12" non-slider.

Has anyone had problems with sloppy slides?

I've had Makita and Milwaukee SCM, the slides are were tight. I used a DeWalt that was also very nice. I hear Hitachi was making a nice SCM too.

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I used to have a Delta 10" and about 5yrs ago it went to tool heaven to be replaced with a 12" PC. As far as greater blade runout on a 12", I don't have any and get perfect cuts. A buddy of mine and my Dad both have 12" units by different manufacturers as well and I have used both with no problem and I am very fussy so it wouldn't go unnoticed. I am confused, for those of you that notice blade deflection are you using thin kerf blades or worn out/cheaper quality saws, because that will make a big difference. No matter if it is a 10 or a 12 if you have a well tuned quality saw with a solid correct quality blade you should get great cuts. As for preference goes I like my 12", it gives me not only wider crosscuts but also a taller capacity.

Nate

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  • 9 years later...
On 8/17/2010 at 8:38 PM, Timberwerks said:

 

From what I have seen it appears most furniture makers, cabinetmakers and finish carpenters go for the 10". A lot of rough & remodeling carpenters and deck builders etc go for the 12", their use of 4 x 4's and other large stock is a factor.

Disagree....

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On 8/18/2010 at 11:20 PM, Dan S said:

I'm betting 10" is more popular, because most woodworkers have 10" table saws, and thus the blades are interchangeable. Imo a 10" sliding miter, is probably more than enough for most shops.

Agree..... but a blade warped on one cuts the same on the other. Sometimes better to have separation.....

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You do realize how old this thread is right?  Also, the OP hasn't been here since 2013.  2 of the 3 people you replied to haven't been here since 2013 and the other since 2010.

I think it's great to read the archives here but, they have to be taken with a grain of salt because of their age.  A lot of things have changed in 10 years.

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It's all information. If we dont bring old post up , what's the point of the forum. If I'm not involved in a post and i have something say one can read and move on or reply..

 

1 hour ago, ..Kev said:

You do realize how old this thread is right?  Also, the OP hasn't been here since 2013.  2 of the 3 people you replied to haven't been here since 2013 and the other since 2010.

I think it's great to read the archives here but, they have to be taken with a grain of salt because of their age.  A lot of things have changed in 10 years.

What's changed?

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1 minute ago, BillyJack said:

It's all information. If we dont bring old post up , what's the point of the forum. If I'm not involved in a post and i have something say one can read and move on or reply..

 

What's changed?

Who's here to see your response?

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