Hand Tool Thursday


jmaichel

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==>How does a tenon saw differ from a dovetail saw, other than in size?

Let's see....

 

Plate – tenon saws have a heaver plate for stability and heat dissipation.

 

Plate under back – tenon saws have more plate under the back for obvious reasons.

 

Tapered plates - Today, tapered plates are sexy. You see more tapered plates in dovetail and carcass saws; less once you get to sash and tenon saws – say 14-16”. You rarely see it after 16”.

 

Hang - tends to be more hang in a dovetail saw.

 

Handle – tends to be open for dovetail vs closed for tenon.

 

Filing – both rip filed, but sash filing is becoming more popular for tenon saws and larger dovetailers. A tenon saw may have a bit more fleam. Some filers may also impart a bit of rake on tenon saws... Again, we are getting to personal taste. Also, hand filing imparts a bit of fleam and rake on every saw, so you never end-up with a ‘perfect’ filing job...

 

Ppi – tenon saw has fewer tpi

 

Gullets- tenon saw has deeper gullets.

 

Back – tenon saw has a much heavier back.

 

Weight – Many prefer a nimble dovetailer and a very heavy tenon saw – I happen to be one of them, so I use Gramergy’s dovetailer and a BadAxe tenon saw... When gang cutting, I like a heavy dovailtailer with a bit more fleam and rake, so I use a BadAxe with a heaver plate, back and more heft...

 

 

There are about a dozen other differences, but they start to get esoteric... :)

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==>How does a tenon saw differ from a dovetail saw, other than in size?

Let's see....

 

Plate – tenon saws have a heaver plate for stability and heat dissipation.

 

Plate under back – tenon saws have more plate under the back for obvious reasons.

 

Tapered plates - Today, tapered plates are sexy. You see more tapered plates in dovetail and carcass saws; less once you get to sash and tenon saws – say 14-16”. You rarely see it after 16”.

 

Hang - more hang is a dovetail saw.

 

Handle – open for dovetail vs closed for tenon.

 

Filing – both rip filed, but sash filing is becoming more popular for tenon saws and larger dovetailers. A tenon saw may have a bit more fleam. Some filers may also impart a bit of rake on tenon saws... Again, we are getting to personal taste. Also, hand filing imparts a bit of fleam and rake on every saw, so you never end-up with a ‘perfect’ filing job...

 

Ppi – tenon saw has fewer tpi

 

Gullets- tenon saw has deeper gullets.

 

Back – tenon saw has a much heavier back.

 

Weight – Many prefer a nimble dovetailer and a very heavy tenon saw – I happen to be one of them, so I use Gramergy’s dovetailer and a BadAxe tenon saw... When gang cutting, I like a heavy dovailtailer with a bit more fleam and rake, so I use a BadAxe with a heaver plate, back and more heft...

 

 

There are about a dozen other differences, but they start to get esoteric... :)

Thanks for answering this Triple H.

 

Actually to add to the confusion I got this saw filed Hybrid cut. "Simply put, hybrid-filing can be looked at as either A relaxed rip with bevel, or an aggressive x-cut with less bevel. The diagram on the right reflects the angles we use when customers order hybrid-cut." From the Bad Axe site. Mark explains it better than I ever could. Here is a link to the rest of that article. 

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==>I got this saw filed Hybrid cut

Nothing wrong with sash filing on 14" and 16" backsaws -- got one myself... I've got one 14" in sash and one in rip and a 16" in sash. from 18" you're really better-off going rip -- unless it's a miterbox saw.

 

The 14" rip is my tenon saw -- I rairly need 4" tenons, so it's pointless to have a dedeicated 16" tenon saw in my workflow. In fact, I doubt anyone needs a 16" dedicated tenon saw -- unless you've got a true neander workflow. So a sash-filed 16" is a great combo saw...

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==>I got this saw filed Hybrid cut

Nothing wrong with sash filing on 14" and 16" backsaws -- got one myself... I've got one 14" in sash and one in rip and a 16" in sash. from 18" you're really better-off going rip -- unless it's a miterbox saw.

 

The 14" rip is my tenon saw -- I rairly need 4" tenons, so it's pointless to have a dedeicated 16" tenon saw in my workflow. In fact, I doubt anyone needs a 16" dedicated tenon saw -- unless you've got a true neander workflow. So a sash-filed 16" is a great combo saw...

This was kind of my thinking as well. I have a 12" Tenon/DT saw filed hybrid and really I wanted something bigger and a little more aggressive. Going with a 14" sash really did not make as much sense as going with a 16". Although I may never need the full depth of the 16" saw, it is nice to know its there. I have no intentions of being a saw monger so I wanted to try to get the most bang for my buck without having to worry about getting another saw in the future. 

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