collinb Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 At my favorite local auction got some hand tools. An old Disston saw, 11tpi. An Atkins miter/back saw. Looks like an "8" on it. And a Helix yard stick. All for [quite cheap]. Missed a Porter Cable router with pistol grip. But best of all I talked guy who got the router. (We are both regulars there.) He is a woodworker for a good number of years. Gave me interesting advice. For instance, he says that with a perfectly aligned table saw plus a blade that's flat he does not use a jointer. Of course that means a perfectly aligned fence plus something more easily aligned than a contractor saw. (I am looking at the Pal solution so to keep my current saw.) Even better he has a friend who sharpens hand saws for about $6 each. At that price I am not going to spend my time learning *another* craft! All in all a good auction and some nice tools. Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Depends on what you are making. I made a dining room table a while back and it would have been impossible without face jointing my boards for the table. I suppose you could try that with a table saw, but even assuming you could make it work, you would be limited to the max height of your blade, something less then 4" most likely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Wouldn't you be able to clean up the max blade cut depth x 2, by flipping the piece end for end? Assuming the blade doesn't flex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
collinb Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Depends on what you are making. I made a dining room table a while back and it would have been impossible without face jointing my boards for the table. I suppose you could try that with a table saw, but even assuming you could make it work, you would be limited to the max height of your blade, something less then 4" most likely. Well, the guy is a seasoned pro. Far beyond where I am at. Interesting, too, that he also was not a fan of the router as jointer. Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I have used a tablesaw to to cut pieces like this. I think any precision you have will be lost when you flip the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
collinb Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 everything I have in mind says 4/4 x 3" or 4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilgaron Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 What auction house are you going to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
collinb Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 http://mvhauctioneer.com it's my regular every-other-Tuesday activity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 20 hours ago, collinb said: Well, the guy is a seasoned pro. Far beyond where I am at. Interesting, too, that he also was not a fan of the router as jointer. Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk Lots of pro cabinet shops buy all of their stock surfaced four sides (S4S) from a distributor and only use the table saw to rip stuff to width. Stuff too wonky for the saw goes back to the distributor or the burn pile. If that is the world he lives in then yes, he can get away without a jointer. As a hobby furniture maker, that is not my world. I buy lumber either rough, or S3S and do the final milling myself. 1) I enjoy it. 2) i have more control over color, grain, etc and 3) I have more control over my final dimensions. I need a jointer and would give up woodworking if someone took mine away. This is not meant to sound pejorative, but a lot of cabinet shops don't much woodworking. They screw together plywood and face frames from stock that is pre-dimensioned. More and more of them are buying doors and drawer boxes prebuilt from distributors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 21 hours ago, collinb said: Gave me interesting advice. For instance, he says that with a perfectly aligned table saw plus a blade that's flat he does not use a jointer. Of course that means a perfectly aligned fence plus something more easily aligned than a contractor saw. (I am looking at the Pal solution so to keep my current saw.) For what operation is he advising this table saw "shop hack" for? My jointer is used for two proposes 1) flatten a face on a board -if you don't have a flat face, what is registering on the ts fence? 2)registering a newly flat face on the fence, creates an initial straight edge and 90° surface. -see note to #1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 43 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: For what operation is he advising this table saw "shop hack" for? My jointer is used for two proposes 1) flatten a face on a board -if you don't have a flat face, what is registering on the ts fence? 2)registering a newly flat face on the fence, creates an initial straight edge and 90° surface. -see note to #1. I think you are missing a vacuous boast. OP says a saw that is flat. This must mean hand saw. The guy is bragging on his handsaw skills and likely tunes in some way, just not with a powered jointer. In theory, if you could get that first cut straight (think straight line rip with a hand saw or a straight line jig) you could rip parallel and then flip to rip to final size. I am just not sure I buy it completely the way it is worded in the OP. Any clarification Collin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 2 minutes ago, C Shaffer said: I think you are missing a vacuous boast. OP says a saw that is flat. This must mean hand saw. The guy is bragging on his handsaw skills and likely tunes in some way, just not with a powered jointer. In theory, if you could get that first cut straight (think straight line rip with a hand saw or a straight line jig) you could rip parallel and then flip to rip to final size. I am just not sure I buy it completely the way it is worded in the OP. Any clarification Collin? I suppose that could be the meaning. Slightly confusing to me but hey, who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted February 4, 2016 Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 "blade that's flat" => "face that's flat" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
collinb Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2016 1 hour ago, C Shaffer said: I think you are missing a vacuous boast. OP says a saw that is flat. This must mean hand saw. The guy is bragging on his handsaw skills and likely tunes in some way, just not with a powered jointer. In theory, if you could get that first cut straight (think straight line rip with a hand saw or a straight line jig) you could rip parallel and then flip to rip to final size. I am just not sure I buy it completely the way it is worded in the OP. Any clarification Collin? He was speaking of his cabinet saw. Of course, as noted, there are thickness limitations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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