Daniellemo Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Working on a live edge table I got. It's HUGE. No idea what kind of wood it is. Wood top is very thick and in REALLY bad condition. Have stripped it twice using a gel stripper, and started sanding it out. Had to remove a few of the knots because they were rotten all the way through, so now the table has a few holes in it. That's all ok, I like the raw look as it suits the table. My concern is this. I can't seem to remove all the dark stain, so the table is all blotchy. I plan on staining it again to a dark brown, so do I need to keep going and remove more stain? Or can I just condition the wood and stain it dark on top of what is left. Please see the pics I have included. Pretty sure the table had been left outside for a while. We are also trying to remove whatever filler is in it. Thanks for any help/suggestions! This is my first big refinishing project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 That looks like a soft wood slab, pine/spruce/fir. There's plenty of thickness, so go at it with a belt sander & very coarse grit belts. Just be really careful not to create gouges & use a straight edge to keep from getting it unflat. But it's going to look terrible if you stain it. I you insist on darkening it then use a tinted finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Other choices would be a router sled, or scrub plane. My first choice is a belt sander with 40 grit paper. +1 on no stain. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Good options listed above. The "filler" that you're seeing looks to me like epoxy that was used to stabilize the cracks. That's a common accepted practice. Apply a little water to it and see if it's clear. If it's epoxy, it will take a finish just fine but, won't take the stain. This is also a good opting to stabilize the knots or fill the knot holes if you wish. Just tape off the under side and don't fill them all at once. You will get bubbles but, a heat gun or quick pass with a torch will pop the bubbles. If you're dead set on darkening it, I'd suggest spraying a dye rather than brushing a stain. Less chance of blotching that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniellemo Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 hi all So I need to keep sanding to get rid of the dark stain is what you are all saying, even though I plan on staining it dark brown. Crap. Guess that means a lot more work for me! Oh well. It is going to be stunning when I am done! Thanks for all the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I like the floor sander idea. Never thought of that. You could easily do it with a 4 hour rental. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 12 minutes ago, Daniellemo said: hi all So I need to keep sanding to get rid of the dark stain is what you are all saying, even though I plan on staining it dark brown. Crap. Guess that means a lot more work for me! Oh well. It is going to be stunning when I am done! Thanks for all the advice. If the top is removable, you might also check a local cabinet shop and see if they can run it thru their drum sander for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I think the orbital floor sander rental is a great idea. Spraying dye will give you the best dark results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 If that is indeed pine, an iron acetate wash can produce a very even, rich brown color, that extends below the surface. However, chemically coloring the wood this way can have some unexpected results, mostly variations in tint from board to board. This may be distracting in a slab made of multiple boards glued together, which can take on slightly different shades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniellemo Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I have no clue what type of wood it is. The person I bought it from sadly had no idea. It seems harder than pine. I can't scratch my fingernail into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 How as you going to deal with the stain on the live edge? I don't see a way to remove that without ruining the edge. So since your going stain/dye it a dark brown, I am going to say the "P" word. Why not paint it brown or black and then spray it with a high gloss lacquer? Might look pretty cool. Maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Some old growth types of pine can be quite hard especially after drying/curing/hardening for many years. It does look like it was left outside or in a leaky barn from looking at the deteriorating area. Dye may not color the clear filler I see. You can tint epoxy to fill the knot holes, cracks and rotten areas. Then sand flush before dye and finishing. General Finishes makes water based dyes and stains that can be hand applied. You can dye and then add a stain over it to get a darker richer overall color. If possible flip the top over and sand an area to test dyes, stains and finishes before you tackle the good side. Practice will improve your results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janello Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I'm afraid to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weithman5 Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 1 hour ago, Janello said: I'm afraid to ask. It might cooperate if you weren't flipping it off. I would try the floor sander 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Moore Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I happened to see a guy sanding a live edge bar top yesterday with a square floor sander, he was just walking forward and back keeping the pad flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Great idea the floor sander. Why a dark finish? Dark brown or black has got to be the hard finish to get right.Every little scratch will show.A 40 grit sanding pad will scratch deep. Although it might look good in a large room with a small 40 watt light bulb in the far corner. I hate dark finishes. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 For holes that big I'd go butterfly fake crack repair. The concept still has some old charm without huge holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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