freedhardwoods Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Nothing fancy here. Just showing the tools I'm going to use as they come into the shop. I picked up my Frankensaw Saturday and started checking things and seeing how it will go together. A few things needed to be tightened and the motor bracket slot needs to be tweaked a little. The fence rail goes out to over 9 feet to the right of the blade. I will probably cut that off a little. They had a sheet metal catch pan screwed to the bottom of the saw. It looks like that's where they had the dust collector hooked up. More later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Was that pan for catching dust, or hydraulic fluid leaking from the saw motor? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted February 19, 2017 Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 Looks like a good day for it. How is the painting coming? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post freedhardwoods Posted February 19, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 19, 2017 The pan was dry. I think it was for sawdust. The walls are ugly and white. I'm not pretty and my shop doesn't need to be either. I'm done painting. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post freedhardwoods Posted February 21, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 I took 4 of the guys from the Frankensaw shop to install a set of cabinets today. The shop owner said we could call my bill for today and a local run last week an even trade for the saw so I got it for $251. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Good deal on the saw! This is a side question about long rails. It ties into people using tube steel from yards for VSCT retrofits too. At what point does the accuracy of the saw suffer from fence rails that are not straight? Over the 120" he has, surely the rail is out of straight by 1/16-1/8"+? A 1/8" bow towards the saw or away from the saw would horribly misalign the fence to the blade, right? Has me wondering what tolerances manufacturers produce their rails and if it even matters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted February 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 I wondered about how straight this long rail would be. It had to be fairly close because they were making cabinets with it. I was thinking I would take a sheet of plywood and cut 1" slices until its gone and measure each slice on each end to check for accuracy. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 My 6 ft Biesemeyer rails are well over 20 years old and still straight enough for me. Maybe some slight burning on occasion but that can be operator errror when crosscutting a full sheet over 5' with the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 I work at a plant that manufactures the "angle iron" used for things like fence rail supports. While we don't make the tube, I'm sure the tolerances are similar. We produces bars within a few thou of dead straight over 20 to 60 feet. Starting out that straight, it takes some work to get a fence rail to bow 1/16" over 10 feet. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 3 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: I work at a plant that manufactures the "angle iron" used for things like fence rail supports. I've hauled a lot of loads out of Jackson years ago. Is that where you work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 I've hauled a lot of loads out of Jackson years ago. Is that where you work? Yep. You haul for the mill, or one of the fab shops here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 An O/O division of TMC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Cool. At one time, we had our own fleet, but its been all contracted carriers since the mid 90s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 On 2/21/2017 at 11:46 PM, wtnhighlander said: I work at a plant that manufactures the "angle iron" used for things like fence rail supports. While we don't make the tube, I'm sure the tolerances are similar. We produces bars within a few thou of dead straight over 20 to 60 feet. Starting out that straight, it takes some work to get a fence rail to bow 1/16" over 10 feet. Great post. I really did not know what to expect straight from the manufacturer. I dont know the process that well, but really a few thous over such a span? I paid an arm and a leg for a few thous over 4', let alone 20 or 60! For construction purposes, 1/16" over 10 feet sounded perfectly acceptable. Anyways, you answered the question, turns out the rails really are pretty straight and true. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 I was able to get my saw up and running today. I put it in place as well as my homemade router table. Next, II'll get my dust collection system in place. This is all a very crude setup and most of you probably have a better setup. I have to start somewhere and don't want to spend any more than I have to until I see if I'm getting some orders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Lighting looks like it is working well. First picture looks nice and bright. You going to leave the left hand rail on the saw that long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Curious about that rail too. Is that a right-tilt saw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted March 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 9 minutes ago, Chet K said: You going to leave the left hand rail on the saw that long? 1 I'm not going to cut it for the moment. It is in the way, but since I don't know what my best setup will be, I want to start making some cabinets before I do anything that would be hard to undo. 2 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Curious about that rail too. Is that a right-tilt saw? It is a right tilt. The original setup for that rail had a Powermatic saw at the far left with this Grizzly bolted where it is. Once I start getting orders, I will be upgrading a lot of things rather quickly, including this saw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Nice big router table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted March 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 5 hours ago, drzaius said: Nice big router table. I hope big is good. I'll find out when I start using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Big router table is fine as long as it's flat ! Even a slight crown in the center is workable, but a sag is a nightmare ! I've got a 6' router table with a power feeder. It's great for cutting grooves and molding long edges. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted March 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 I got a lot done on the dust collection today. I managed to drop the dc from where it formerly was mounted 8' high on the wall. It was coming straight at me so I jumped off the ladder. No damage to me or it. Hopefully, 2 or 3 more hours and it will be done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 I bet that stuff's not light either? Looking good man! You mentioned in another thread about going in with your son as a partner. Do you/did you, formerly work for someone in the cabinet business or have you been your own independent shop? Don't mean to get personal and/or hj your thread. Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedhardwoods Posted March 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 The 6" is kind of heavy. I've never built cabinets before. The first time I was in business, I dried lumber and sold it rough and planed. I occasionally hired part-time help. The second time, I sold dried lumber, random length drawer box material, and flooring. I had a full-time employee that did most of the shop work. I would park my truck and help every time I bought a load of lumber from the sawmill. I've never built cabinets or done real woodworking before. I started hauling/helping cabinet installers over a year ago and decided to build cabinets. Until now, I haven't had any partners or co-owners in any business I've had. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted March 19, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 Start out simple then gradually stick your neck out and take on progressively more complex jobs as you get comfortable with the simpler stuff. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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