krtwood

I have a lumber rack mounted through drywall in my shop with 6 point loads on the drywall that has been fine. Maybe it's crushed the drywall underneath a tiny bit but if there is any damage surely this would be easier to mud over than to replace a giant hole in the drywall.

Slight hijack but here's my alternative Epoxy a bolt into the handle and use a driver or ratchet to tighten to your heart's content. Allows you to go nuts on the clamp even if you've got them tight up against each other.

I had some thoughts about also using it for drilling pilot holes but it's certainly too slow for that. I find it just about right for screwing though, for workshop use anyway. Not the right tool to build a deck or something like that.

There's an M12 screwdriver too in the regular drill shape. And it's under $50. Milwaukee 2401-20. If you don't care about the offset and right angle attachments and just want a direct replacement for an impact, it's all you need.

In my experience both Olson and Timberwolf are all over the place as far as quality. Generally okay on wider blades but buy two blades at the same time and swap one for the other and get very different results. I used to buy Starret for my favorite 3/16" 4 tpi size for curves but I cannot find them anymore and every brand I have tried since has been garbage when I can find it at all. Edit: So I went to the Highland Woodworking website based on the recommendations and they have 3/16 4 tpi, but when I select the length the add to cart button disappears even though it says in stock. Why do they taunt me?

I was making them for the League of NH Craftsmen. They have an Annual Ornament that they have been doing since the late 80s where juried members can submit entries and they select one to be made. All I had to do was make them, deliver them, and cash the checks. The last delivery was sold out before I even delivered it. You can look at the history here: https://nhcrafts.org/annual-ornament/ Not a lot of wood to be found. It started out with the first test production run in December 2021 to get an idea of whether that kind of volume was feasible in the timeframe. I had entered an ornament the two previous years and I really wasn't expecting to get picked for this year either. I have one ornament that sells really well at the annual 9 day craft fair and I was looking for another design. I was expecting this production run of 200 or so to be that. Well come July I got the word that it would be me, as long as I was willing to tie ribbon bows on them. I thought something along the lines of "It takes 10 seconds to tie my shoes, sure no problem." I say something in the video about this not being as easy as I am making it look when I tie the bow. It was down to around 40 seconds average at the end. The first ones were around 5 minutes. I was in the 2 minute range for a long time. Those bows ended up being a month of full time work that was completely unplanned and not part of the pricing. Lesson learned. I had already bid at the top of what they expected so there wasn't really room to go up anyway. But considering they sold out early, we both had room to go up. Easy to say after the fact. In January 2023, they asked to increase the quantity from 5000 to 5400, based on the sales from the previous year. I said okay, but it might cause some slight delays at the end of the year. I did not appreciate the ribbon problem at this stage as the first delivery wasn't until May and I had only tied 20 bows at this point. So that was nearly another month of work that got added on. Well, more than a normal full time month of work. Somewhere around Oct/Nov they asked about increasing the number again. We didn't get to what number they were looking for. I shut that right down. I told them I would finish whatever extra blanks I had and that was all they were getting. Another problem I had was that back in 2021 the plan was to go around to different Lowes and buy all the PC floor standing drill presses I needed in a day for $300 each. By the time it came to actually acquiring the drill presses in August 2022, those were on perpetual backorder and the price of everything else available had doubled. So I turned to the used market, which is great when you have plenty of time and don't actually need anything. But when you need it now and have to take what you can get, well I ended up learning a lot about how to rebuild drill presses after driving to every corner of the state down god forsaken dirt roads to get them in the first place. That blue painted Atlas came with the taper the chuck mounts on so completely mangled I ended up having to send the spindle out to have the taper turned down by a machinist. The Clausing got a new motor pulley, then a new motor, then new spindle bearings before it finally ran without vibrating. I still haven't figured out why it gets stuck if you bring the quill down more than 2 inches. The unused PC that I managed to pick up developed a bad spindle bearing half way through the job and drilling 3000 more holes didn't improve it. My original PC now has one of the handles falling out and the chuck is a little damaged. The only ones that came out of it unscathed were the damn cheap Wen I got in desperation of not being able to find anything else and that POS Ryobi. The main reason I presented the video in real time (other than not having time to edit video) was I wanted to really show how long all the other stuff besides the interesting part really takes. A third of the way through the video it's already in the final shape. The next third is sanding. The last third is all the stuff that had to happen after I was already "done". That first third is what I think of as "woodworking" and what my mind is thinking about when I'm thinking how long the thing is going to take to make. But when you get down to something simple you can only optimize the process so much and there's still all this other stuff that has to get done that might be a small part of a complex project. But you take that 10 minutes or so of work that is just always going to be there and multiply it by 5000 and it's an enormous quantity of work that has to get done.

Let me know when you get to 5000 14 months, 7 days a week making those little bastards.

Looks to be running some version of GRBL so Universal Gcode Sender ought to be able to talk to it.

The last time I bought a 50 pack of Klingspor cloth backed sandpaper in 2017 it was $57.95. Today it's $109.95. I guess if it's going to last another 7 years it doesn't really matter but that's hard to swallow. The prices on other types of backing don't seem to have changed very much. Anyone have another source they are happy with?

Small dents can often be repaired, or at least minimized, by wetting the wood. Some people wet it and then use an iron to steam it or you can just keep it wet for a while and then let it dry out thoroughly.

My advice is to look for a used Porter Cable 15" floor model on Facebook/Craigslist. They unfortunately have been unavailable new at Lowes since Covid supply issues and I doubt they are ever coming back. I am in the middle of a year long production job that has resulted in me currently having six drill presses in my shop. Two of them are those PC units. Two of them are old US made units from the '50s-'60s. Two of them are el cheapo Wen/Ryobi. Buying an old drill press is a can of worms. Both of those took a lot of work to make them serviceable and would take even more work to make them viable replacements for the PC. I would not go down that route unless you want a restoration project. You won't find anything better new for your budget and it should run you about $250-300 if you can find one. I have a sample size of two to review and I can say that the table on one of them is really awful as far as the machining and flatness. The other one is much better. You are going to put a table on it anyway so it doesn't matter. They claim the motor is 1 HP. It's probably really more like 3/4 HP. Either way it's enough to munch through wood with a good size forstner bit because that's what I do with them. I seriously would have just gone around to every nearby Lowes and bought 4 more of them for this job if I could have. They were way underpriced for how good they are.

I don't know how he makes his drawers but I have these things called tools that I use to make things that aren't flat become flat. I also use them to make the drawer. I don't know how he manages to make the drawer but not be able to flatten it when the flattening is about the most basic skill that you need to make the drawer in the first place.

Another possibility would be to fabricate a bushing that would press fit on the bearing of a router bit you already have.

I have drywall and t1-11 in my shop,both painted, and there is absolutely no difference in how they collect dust or how easy it is to clean. Compressed air doesn't care how smooth the surface is. T1-11 goes up faster but sucks up more paint. It really just comes down to what you want it to look like.

Some lathes have an indexing plate built into them for this purpose. If yours doesn't have one then you could add a plate to the handwheel or between the work and the headstock. Essentially this is just a disc with evenly spaced holes in a circle and you lock it with a pin. Where and how you attach the holder for the pin would be the tricky part and would depend on your lathe and stand. If you search around for lathe indexing I'm sure you'll find some commercial solutions.