British Joiners Bench


G S Haydon

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Well, bluegrass might come easier than you think http://www.foto8.com/new/online/photo-stories/760-the-cidermen. Note it's not me speaking in the vid but in the very first shot I am sat right in the middle. That was a very interesting weekend spent with an old friend from school and his family.

 

C,

 

1) The mallet it my day job mallet. It's been hard not to use it all the time as I do at work  :)

2) Agreed, part of the concept for the build was simple tools. It's the same saw I cut the tenons with and for £8.00 a good all rounder. More saws to be added to the tool chest.

3) It's the mezzanine storage level at work. It's where all the old paraphernalia get stored, tools, old nails & screws, old furniture and now my shop.

4) No problem, delighted your on board for the journey  :).

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The cross members are glued and nailed in position. With making most of this by hand you quickly learn how much hard work winding in massive screws is. I had to wind 24 of them in to attach the aprons, that combined with the pilot holes took some time. 

Mel's recent tool cabinet build reminded me how quick nails are by comparison. Luckily for me I have many buckets of old hand made nails in the attic space I camp out in.

What a revelation compared to screws, a few firm blows followed with a nail punch and it's done. I know nails are not good for all applications and I would of screwed the aprons no matter what but if you enjoy hand tool work nails are very rapid and should not be forgotten as an option.  

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Did you use the brace to "wind" the screws in?   It's what I used before they made battery powered drills, and I was away from electricity.   I like the wide apron with holes for the holdfast.  How wide and thick is it-sorry if it's already been listed here?  I do most of my plans in my head, with little on paper, so mine is going to have a Scandinavian tail vise (sort of),  French vise (sort of), and now maybe an English apron.

 

Your work on yours is looking great.  That's a shiny looking 16oz. screwdriver.

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Hi Tom,

 

I didn't, but you make a good point, a brace would of offered great torque, next time  :). No problem, the apron is in the region of 9 1/2" x 1 3/4". I was tempted to go deeper but by the time top is added the surface area will be 11 1/2" ish which seemed plenty enough for me. +1 om "in the head"  :).

 

And btw it's a 20z, I know I'm English but I'm not that limp wristed  :D

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I would go as far as saying a pencil behind the ear is "essential"  :). Glad you enjoyed it TIODS, I hope to get some confidence to start talking soon on the vids soon.

My wife just asked me tonight if there was any talking in your videos or if I was just watching someone saw and chisel.

Even without commentary they are great.

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Wilbur, Chuck

 

Glad your enjoying it and thanks for the kind words  :). I'm preparing for my first "talkie", had my haircut and everything, how about makeup? (joke)

 

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The bench top is on! It's screwed and plugged to the framework below. I like this idea a lot because I know exactly how deep my screws are beneath my bench top. Also fitting the top on a bench like this is kinda like laying floor boards and you wouldn't nail up through the joist to do that. And finally George Ellis did it that way too. Go to page 34. For those who like the old school stuff do click the link and enjoy a very good read on hand tools. It's basically a book on what a Joiner like me would of been doing in the Edwardian era.

As it mentions in Ellis the top has been allowed to overhang although not so much for the fear of shrinkage as Ellis notes because the wood is very dry, more I want to be able to remove any breakout when I flatten and then tooth the top.

 

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The top now requires flattening. I initially hit a road block here a while back. I knew I would need a long plane to flatten the top. I have a very old "family" Stanley #8 that is hollow along it's length, I bought a Record #7 from ebay that is hollow along it's length. I then bought a cheap new #7 online, how bad could it be right......hollow along it's length....and being sent back........

 

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Just when I though I was going to spend some money (not good) the "mez" came up trumps. There was a dusty old "family" wooden try plane in the corner, beaten, wormy and looking sorry for itself and guess what a hollow twisted sole! What's cool with this plane is that because it's made of wood it's very easy to true up. It actually took only a couple of moments because I set our power jointer ultra fine and did it that way with a small amount of refinement with my tuned up #4 smoother to finish. To flatten those metal planes would of been a real pain in the backside. 

In addition to it's flat sole it also has a fabulous thick blade and cap iron. These old planes normally had laminated blades, which comprises of an ultra hard tool steel (similar to O1) bonded to a softer backing metal. The dampening effect of the thick wooden body and the thick blade made for a lovely cushioned smooth feel when in use.

One small down side was the handle fell off! Soon sorted with ye olde polyurethane glue and a big straight slotted screw (see image 2, you actually get to see a blob of set glue on the screw head)

 

It was a dream to use. Adjusting with a hammer (hide & copper hammer was my choice) was quite liberating. I used it to shoot the top of the aprons, the joints in the top and took it for a quick go on the top. I would heartily recommend a plane like this because it is so easy to refine. Also, don't be afraid of a grizzly one. This one is very "used" but I think that's a good thing. It lets you know the owner had it working well and used it a lot. I have picked up the odd clean/unused looking plane and they have usually chocked and needed extra messing about with. (Mel if you sell the #2 treat yourself to a woodie!)

 

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Next up is the "talkie". Might not be this weekend as I have one of my rare nights out with the lads tomorrow so I might not be on top form..........

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That's looking nice! Very nice story about the plane as well.

I have a couple wooden moulding planes and a wooden "coffin" smoother. I like the smoother a lot. The moulding planes need some work, and they'll be fine :)

But if you change your mind on the LN #2 I'm selling, remember that I will ship it across the pond :)

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It's great so far, although I've just been able to skim through it so far. I've been swamped at work! New job as of two weeks ago. I should take it to work and read it at lunch.

Now it's the weekend, I have a graduation party for my wife's friend that I must attend and I'm seeing Steve Hackett of Genesis fame on Sunday night! Super psyched, but not much time for reading.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update, I experimented toothing a piece of wood to see if it offered an improvement in grip. I found unless the toothing interacted with a sawn face there was no noticeable advantage in grip. I shall therefore omit this step. Most boring update ever........................

 

So on that basis watch this instead, it get's interesting. WARNING: Video is a little graphic!

 

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=f9b_1380313509

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