Maple end table


Llama

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If you haven't already, watch Marc's popping the grain video.  I normally use 1:1:1 BLO|Amber Shellac|DnA.  I think transtint pops better though.  

 

 

 

Samples of the finish.  My board were not as figured as yours in their raw state, so you should get even better results.

 

attachicon.gifSmall Sample.jpg

attachicon.gifSmall Sample 2.jpg

 

Very nice! I'll check out that video tonight. You should stop by sometime! You're only a few minutes away.

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Well, I cut it and changed it around this morning. Now it looks worse. The light is hitting the top in a way that makes the grain look odd. Heavier figure in one direction and plain on another. So I flip it, and it looks like it did this morning. I think I need a thicker board and resaw it to get the look I'm after. 

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Here is a color test. I used amber shellac and amber transtint, first coat and no sanding in this picture.

The top of the maple board is just the shellac.

 

Shows flame maple, bubinga and mahogany. I really like it on the darker woods, on the maple this formula may be too reddish. 

 

1187107_10201838676996779_787287745_n.jp

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Did you cut the shellac with any DnA?  I have found it pops the curly grain better if you cut it.  It seems to soak into the curl deeper and then when you sand, you remove most of if from the board, but it stays in the curly grain, making it stand out more, if that makes sense.  

 

 

Question for you on your bandsaw:  

 

It looks like the Grizzly 555 series, which is a 14" band saw with max re-saw capacity of 6".  It looks like your boards are wider than 6" and looking at your saw, it seems taller.  Did you modify the saw for greater re-saw capacity?

 

Also, any other general opinions on the Grizzly bandsaw?  A bandsaw is on my short list of tools to upgrade in my shop, and I have been leaning towards the 17" grizzly (513 series) primarily for re-saw capacity, but its about double the cost.  As I am sure you have experienced, KMHardwoods like to cut their lumber 7"-10" wide, so I would like to be able to re-saw most stock I get there without having to rip it first.

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Did you cut the shellac with any DnA?  I have found it pops the curly grain better if you cut it.  It seems to soak into the curl deeper and then when you sand, you remove most of if from the board, but it stays in the curly grain, making it stand out more, if that makes sense.  

 

 

Question for you on your bandsaw:  

 

It looks like the Grizzly 555 series, which is a 14" band saw with max re-saw capacity of 6".  It looks like your boards are wider than 6" and looking at your saw, it seems taller.  Did you modify the saw for greater re-saw capacity?

 

Also, any other general opinions on the Grizzly bandsaw?  A bandsaw is on my short list of tools to upgrade in my shop, and I have been leaning towards the 17" grizzly (513 series) primarily for re-saw capacity, but its about double the cost.  As I am sure you have experienced, KMHardwoods like to cut their lumber 7"-10" wide, so I would like to be able to re-saw most stock I get there without having to rip it first.

 

 

I forgot to cut the shellac.  :ph34r:

 

Yeah, not sure why they are limited to 10" for resaw. Seems odd... :)

 

Mine is the Ultimate 14" bandsaw. I bought the riser kit for it. I think it was around $60-80 and it includes everything you need to increase the height for a little more than 12" of resaw, and they even throw in a 3/8" blade. I am glad I bought the riser, it really makes it a much more powerful saw. And, when not in use, it doesn't hider anything. As a bonus, mine is white! I like the color better than the green, and the special colors are usually cheaper too.

 

As for the quality of the saw, I love it! Very steady, it comes with a pretty good fence and a miter gauge. Another point worth mentioning is the saw has the roller bearings instead of those little guide blocks. The saw is very easy to set up, I did need help putting the top of the saw on, but I did everything else alone. The instruction manual is great too.

 

I made the resaw cuts in the maple using a $20 blade, with the stock fence and it was great! A taller fence would be more stable, but I didn't have any problems.

 

I do wish I bought the mobile base for it, but I can always add it later. 

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12" of re-saw is more than enough for me.  Is there enough muscle in the 1 HP motor to get through 8"-10" domestic hardwood stock without too slow a pace?  I don't re-saw a ton, but it's painful to have to plane down 4/4 stock when I need 1/2" finished thickness.

 

And now they have the black one!  Thought I am not sure I want that over the white...but for $100 they could paint it hot pink, and I'd deal with it!

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12" of re-saw is more than enough for me.  Is there enough muscle in the 1 HP motor to get through 8"-10" domestic hardwood stock without too slow a pace?  I don't re-saw a ton, but it's painful to have to plane down 4/4 stock when I need 1/2" finished thickness.

 

And now they have the black one!  Thought I am not sure I want that over the white.  

 

The piece of maple I resawed is about 9". It wasn't bad at all to get through. I am sure a more powerful saw would be better, but for what I do, it's very capable. Especially for about half the cost of the other bandsaws. 

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I really love the look of this maple. It seems a shame to change it's colour in any way. Just my 2 cents but I would love to see a really neutral vibe, keep the natural colour.

I'm going to leave the "colour" alone :) I love that!

I will probably use BLO with a topcoat of a satin clear. I still need to excitement though.

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