Eric. Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Eric, the back legs look like they could shear along the grain with one good plop onto that chair. I would have changed the orientation of my template on the stock so that the grain ran straight along the entire length of that leg Boom! Exactly. First fatso like me who leans back in that thing is gonna have a sore back and a pissed off host. LOL Hey Sam, did your girlfriend write the notes on that drawring, or do you have the girliest handwriting a man's ever had? Surprised you didn't use little hearts to dot your "I's." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Boom! Exactly. First fatso like me who leans back in that thing is gonna have a sore back and a pissed off host. LOL Hey Sam, did your girlfriend write the notes on that drawring, or do you have the girliest handwriting a man's ever had? Surprised you didn't use little hearts to dot your "I's." That's all me, my man. Typography and handwriting always fascinated me. I have been accused of cheating in high school on several occasions by substitute teachers. They thought I had a girl do my homework. I'm quite adept in cursive, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Hey man, it's definitely legible...guess that's all that matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 A table that's longer than it is wide. Not sure the rules apply here. I knew I shouldn't have said "always". But I'd still make the end grain on the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 may or may not be shaker, but breadboard the end and you have solved your dilemma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Haha woodsap, i was typing that in earlier, then chose not to post because i wasnt sure if it was walking away from the style, but it definitely is an option to consider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Haha woodsap, i was typing that in earlier, then chose not to post because i wasnt sure if it was walking away from the style, but it definitely is an option to considerI can cut the long tenon on the end with ease. But it would take forever to cut a matching mortise by hand. I have no drill press yet, or router. I'm going to live with the end grain. I am going to mock up a piece tonight and put some finish on it to compare the difference between end grain and face grain color when finished. If not too bad, it's a sealed deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 I can cut the long tenon on the end with ease. But it would take forever to cut a matching mortise by hand. I have no drill press yet, or router. I'm going to live with the end grain. I am going to mock up a piece tonight and put some finish on it to compare the difference between end grain and face grain color when finished. If not too bad, it's a sealed deal Bring it by me. I'll be glad to help out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Bring it by me. I'll be glad to help out.If the end grain of this wood looks gnarly with the finish applied, this could be a possibility! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Eric and his beady little eyes . The material looks like sapele ish type stuff and if you look at the edge of the seat it has a similar grain pattern. I don't think it's perhaps as short as fist thought, that leg would cut out of quite a narrow blank so I think the short grain might be an illusion. Sam on the table, to reduce the impact of the end grain forming an undercutting splay reducing the front edges of the top could look nice. Would enhance the delicate nature of the table too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Compare the grain on the back leg to the grain on the front leg. The front is correct, the back is not. That leg is headed for disaster, sooner or later, I'd bet my LN #7 on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Compare the grain on the back leg to the grain on the front leg. The front is correct, the back is not. That leg is headed for disaster, sooner or later, I'd bet my LN #7 on it. You must want to unload that #7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Nah, he's just fat . Probably right on the chair though, Eric's furniture skills are top notch. I'm going to PM him my address though, just in case. I fancy an upgrade from my wooden plane. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Nah, he's just fat . Probably right on the chair though, Eric's furniture skills are top notch. I'm going to PM him my address though, just in case. I fancy an upgrade from my wooden plane. He's not fat, he's big boned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Ok it is Sapele, so my eye for timber is not so bad (just followed the link on pinterest to check). And then clicked the link off site to see more here http://byronconn.com/dining-chair.html I have dropped him a e-mail letting him know a #7 LN is at risk of finding a new home. That international shipping is gonna cost Eric Here he is, just waiting for a reply from Byron to confirm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 That was a really cool video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Excuse me...but I said sooner or LATER. So if it hasn't broken yet, I'll be using the LATER part as my insurance policy. Besides, you can have my LN #7 when you pry it out of my cold DEAD hands! I just like using a LN #7 to make threats with because then people know you're serious. And I like saying LN #7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 It'd be cooler if you said LN#8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Aww Eric I was so looking forward to that #7 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 As much as a #8 weighs, you may as well just grab your Grizzly, flip 'er over and make a few passes. A #7 is heavy enough, I can't imagine throwing that tank around all day. Good thing I don't mill anything with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 I played with both side by side for a few hours when i was in maine, the #8 will be my next purchase along with a block plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 So back to the table, Sam mentions not liking the idea of breadboard ends because of not wanting to chop a full length mortise. That leads to several opportunities. First of all, if I remember correctly you have a table saw. You only need to cut a single kerf to depth on either side of the width of the mortise and then chop the waste between with a chisel. I did that very on four 52" pieces and it took me less than a half hour. Second, if the above option isn't available to you, there's no reason the mortise needs to run full length. After you cut the tenon, waste away some sections of it and then do stopped mortises to align with the tenons (plural). It'd be like using several dominoes or biscuits except cut from the wood. Solves the end grain issue and gives a nice finished edge. I do have to say, however, that I also like the tapered edge idea that was suggested, I think by Eric or Wdwrker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 The more I look at that Sapele chair, the more I am convinced that although it is a beautiful display piece for an exhibit, it is not a structurally sound chair. The rear legs would not stand up to normal use, and the chair back has a very long fulcrum to stress those dovetails. Pressure is applied backwards when seated and resting, the natural way these dovetails would be disassembled. Don't get me wrong, its beautiful, but it's art. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pghmyn Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 So back to the table, Sam mentions not liking the idea of breadboard ends because of not wanting to chop a full length mortise. That leads to several opportunities. First of all, if I remember correctly you have a table saw. You only need to cut a single kerf to depth on either side of the width of the mortise and then chop the waste between with a chisel. I did that very on four 52" pieces and it took me less than a half hour. Second, if the above option isn't available to you, there's no reason the mortise needs to run full length. After you cut the tenon, waste away some sections of it and then do stopped mortises to align with the tenons (plural). It'd be like using several dominoes or biscuits except cut from the wood. Solves the end grain issue and gives a nice finished edge. I do have to say, however, that I also like the tapered edge idea that was suggested, I think by Eric or Wdwrker.I chamfered an edge last night on a scrap bit. I liked the way it looked, to be honest. I think it will lessen the "noticeable-ness" of it actually being end grain. The top is going to be 14" x 18". That dimension is set in stone. For the master shaker table makers here, I was thinkin 1.5" x 1.5" for the legs, tapered to 1" x 1" at bottom. Height will be dependent on the chair. Rails (is that correct term?) will be 6" - and the drawer front will be 4" with a 1" rail on top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Rails (is that correct term?) will be 6" - and the drawer front will be 4" with a 1" rail on top and bottom. I call them aprons. I'm not sure if "rails" are also correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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