Maple end table

[Llama]

Haha, don't be too disheartened. I just asked my wife, and she said $900. I told her it doesn't have a drawer, she said ok maybe a little less. But she said "I see absolute crap night tables at furniture stores for 3-400 with pocket holes and plastic looking tops."

So there ya go.

Thank you for that!

I honestly don't like drawers on these tables. Too small for anything meaningful.

I have listed the table for $350 on my Facebook page. We'll see. If it sells quickly it's priced too low. If not, it's too high, or people are just cheap

[Llama]

Sam, is the storm by you?

[pghmyn]

Sam, is the storm by you?

Nope. Just humid as can be. I could use a good storm down here in Milwaukee.

[Llama]

We have a Tornado warning!

[skiback46]

I have been wanting to make a shaker style end table for a little big, and have a cutoff from my workbench, that has some interesting figure, and due to the knot placement, would likely look best bookmatched.

 

It seems to me that the joint between the two faces would look best running front to back, but of course this would leave endgrain on the front, which is less than desirable.  

 

It seems like this was discussed a bit on the walnut table thread, but I guess what would be peoples preference?  When I look at the top of Mel's table it looks like the joint should run front to back, is that what you did? (I guess it doesn't matter since it doesn't have a drawer..but still how would you display it?)

[Eric.]

She likes both my hobbies. Fishing and woodworking. For fishing, she wants me to have a big boat so it's safe for the future kids, and plenty of deck space for her. She likes the Ranger boats. So do I

 

For woodworking, she told me this line (word for word), "You should get more of those Green (Festool) tools." I told her, "Well, those are really expensive." And she replied, "Yeah, but they look nice." ---- Uh, win?

 

Rangers are nice.  I hear you can pick one up for about 60 bucks.

 

Sweet table, Mel.  I'd definitely add a drawer on the next one and make pairs like Chris suggested.  That would make them much more saleable.  You could make up for the lost time by cutting those tapers on the table saw.   You knuckledragger.

[Llama]

  You could make up for the lost time by cutting those tapers on the table saw.   You knuckledragger.

 

Thanks for the compliments, and suggestions. As for table sawing tapers, I'll pass I am pretty quick with it, and I honestly enjoy doing it. I really hate tablesaws, I have one simply because I don't want to hand rip long thick pieces at a consistent thickness.

[Llama]

It seems like this was discussed a bit on the walnut table thread, but I guess what would be peoples preference?  When I look at the top of Mel's table it looks like the joint should run front to back, is that what you did? (I guess it doesn't matter since it doesn't have a drawer..but still how would you display it?)

 

I display the table with the tops seam running side to side. So there is one surface on the front, not a seam on the front. The long grain simply looks better that way. Also, when in use, stuff will likely be on the top hiding some of the figure anyway.

[pghmyn]

Rangers are nice. I hear you can pick one up for about 60 bucks.

Shhh. That's what I told her, too. She doesn't need to see the loan statement.

[Trip]

==> I honestly don't like drawers on these tables. Too small for anything meaningful.   

 

yea, but if your're going to sell them, drawers are a must and (unless it's a hall table, glove table or corner table) a pair is a must...  I've been there and done that with my local consignment shop... Now all my occasional/bedside tables have drawers...

[Llama]

Well, I guess I can make another one.

I'll be making that table in the new Fine Woodworking magazine. I think that will look better with different woods.

[Eric.]

Which one, the hall table or the featured table on the back cover?  That one gives me the asymetric blues.  And she stole part of that hall table design from me...still waiting to see some royalties on that.

 

[Trip]

==> Rangers are nice.  I hear you can pick one up for about 60 bucks.

 

==> Shhh. That's what I told her, too. 

 

 

And now for an important safety message from our sponsor: when discussing hobby expenses with a spouse, all numbers are in thousands.. everything was on sale...  and remove all sharp objects from the vicinity...

[Llama]

Which one, the hall table or the featured table on the back cover? That one gives me the asymetric blues. And she stole part of that hall table design from me...still waiting to see some royalties on that.

The hall table. Has legs that extend above the aprons and top. Nice sweeping legs.

Your table is much nicer than the one in the magazine!

[Chuck Melton]

Just thought I would share my two cents on what its worth. First of all think of yourself as an employee of "Morris Fine Furniture". We then need to find out how much it actually cost "Morris Fine Furniture" to make the item. No big deal on that, a list as follows should cover it.

 

Materials

 

Finishes 

 

Labor - For this kind of situation I would note down the time spent on a note pad/spread sheet. Total up the hours and apply an hourly rate that you feel represents what you as an employee of "Morris Fine Furniture" would like to earn. Most folks could contrast their job wage to work this out.

 

Fixings & Sundries

 

Shop Costs - For the duration of the job such as Lighting, rates (if your in a commercial premises) heating. Don't go too crazy on this one just yet.

 

Total it up and you have what it cost "Morris Fine Furniture" to produce the table.

 

Contrast the "actual cost" with what similar people/businesses are selling their products for and find the difference.

 

If your table cost $175.00 to make and the competition is selling them at $300.00 and you can sell them at $300 your working around the 40% gross profit percentage area which could make it viable should you ever fancy going pro so to speak.

 

If you drop down to the 28%>34% it's then much less viable.

 

The dark arts of branding, marketing, desire can then come into play if you feel your product is very unique. Lie-Nielsen is a great example of quality brand and quality price, the products speak for themselves however the ethos, branding and company values do to.

 

Hope that kinda helps

 

 

Solid advice, but generally speaking you want a higher gross margin than 40%. At that point, you are basically going to break even after normal expenses (taxes, typical insurance costs, etc). 60-65% is a better goal.

 

Also, you should think of yourself more in terms of a professional service, than a retail store. You don't have any leverage as you are basically selling your life one hour at a time in the wood shop so you shouldn't seek to compete in the same way. Businesses compete on price when they don't have any other advantages, and you clearly have advantages in quality and process. Pricing your table below $600 is doing yourself a disservice. I'd probably try to sell it higher, but that might depend on your local market, here in the Baltimore/DC area you'd have no trouble moving it.

[Llama]

Chuck,

Thank you for the kind words. I have told friends $600 when asked how much I would charge. I always get the same response. "It's worth it, but I'm broke". And to be honest it's a lot of work educating people why the price is what it is.

I think that my issue is marketing. I truly believe if people saw my tables I'd have no problem selling them. I'd love to be able to get my stuff in front of real people looking for a nice piece.

[pghmyn]

I always have a problem when friends approach me about projects and pricing. I am 22, and majority of my friends are +/- a few years. Almost all have never purchased a piece of furniture other than a knock down shelving unit for $50 from Target.

 

When I tell them how much it will cost to make them a quality coffee table out of a wood they choose. For arguments sake, say Cherry. When I throw a number at them like $600 they give a little scoff and say that seems way too high. They can get ****the same thing**** at "insert big box here" for less than half the price.

[Llama]

Sam,

That's the problem. Then we have to educate the buyer in order to let them know it's not the same thing. It's a viscous cycle.

[..Kev]

I always have a problem when friends approach me about projects and pricing. I am 22, and majority of my friends are +/- a few years. Almost all have never purchased a piece of furniture other than a knock down shelving unit for $50 from Target.

 

When I tell them how much it will cost to make them a quality coffee table out of a wood they choose. For arguments sake, say Cherry. When I throw a number at them like $600 they give a little scoff and say that seems way too high. They can get ****the same thing**** at "insert big box here" for less than half the price.

 

Invite the potential client to the wood store with you to purchase the material.  That's a real eye opener!

[Trip]

==> These discussions are the best part of the forum.

 

​Any interest in a forum area around cost/pricing?  I envision a place to post a piece of furniture, then a poll selecting cost ranges and price ranges, followed by discussion posts focusing on costing/pricing/etc..

 

It really doesn't fit 'project journals' -- I'm thinking of the finished piece, not how it came to be...  Doesn't really fit 'going pro' because there are plenty of hobby-shop guys looking to sell a few pieces to keep them in wood...  It may fit in 'project showcase' -- but i'm thinking a more focused area on costing/pricing...

 

Marc, any interest?

[Llama]

Great idea.

Could get tricky, but if done correctly it would be great!

[Eric.]

I always have a problem when friends approach me about projects and pricing. I am 22, and majority of my friends are +/- a few years. Almost all have never purchased a piece of furniture other than a knock down shelving unit for $50 from Target.

 

When I tell them how much it will cost to make them a quality coffee table out of a wood they choose. For arguments sake, say Cherry. When I throw a number at them like $600 they give a little scoff and say that seems way too high. They can get ****the same thing**** at "insert big box here" for less than half the price.

 

This is why I only build for myself and my family.  When anyone else approaches me to build them something, I just tell them, "You won't wanna pay what I'll have to charge you."  And that's that.

[G S Haydon]

Solid advice, but generally speaking you want a higher gross margin than 40%. At that point, you are basically going to break even after normal expenses (taxes, typical insurance costs, etc). 60-65% is a better goal.

 

Also, you should think of yourself more in terms of a professional service, than a retail store. You don't have any leverage as you are basically selling your life one hour at a time in the wood shop so you shouldn't seek to compete in the same way. Businesses compete on price when they don't have any other advantages, and you clearly have advantages in quality and process. Pricing your table below $600 is doing yourself a disservice. I'd probably try to sell it higher, but that might depend on your local market, here in the Baltimore/DC area you'd have no trouble moving it.

A good point Chuck, I was basing this on what's viable for a small UK based joinery business with 10 employees (some part time). I forget that my perspective on that may not be useful to truly bespoke furniture makers.

[Llama]

I certainly enjoy and appreciate all of the comments here about pricing. I have taken the time to update my website with pricing information. We'll see how it goes. 

[Llama]

Here's the link to my website. Please let me know what you think. Be honest.

 

http://morriscustomwoodworking.weebly.com/