mmonday Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Oh no! I just went to the shop to finish some mortises for ebony plugs on the front panel only to find it had cupped...about 1/8". After staring at it for I really don't know how long and feeling myself go red-hot and, I think, swearing, I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I need to start a new panel. I really don't think there is a way to recover this.....but I would like to depend upon the collective knowledge of the woodtalk forum (specifically fellow guild members engaged on the G&G chest) population to, possibly, give me a clue on how to salvage this panel. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hey Blu - that stinks. Can you walk us through your material handling and prep before and during your build? Any recent nasty weather changes in your area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmonday Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hey John. Yea, the panels have been built for a couple of weeks and I've stickered them unless working on them. My shop is well insulated and air conditioned. We've had some wild weather in this part of the country (normally hot and dry this time of year) as it's been much cooler than normal and I think we've received about 6,800,491 inches on rain in the past 2 months. . Actually it has rained almost every day but the past few have been dry. In fact on Wednesday all was well with the panels. Question is is there a miracle cure of returning them to flat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I've had good luck with clamping them flat and wetting them down for about 24 hours.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmonday Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Thanks TIODS. Do you clamp the panel against a flat surface, like a bench top, or do you clamp it in a flat position...like using stickers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I clamp them directly to a flat table - No stickers. Clamp it as flat as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G S Haydon Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I've had good luck with clamping them flat and wetting them down for about 24 hours.. Gotta be worth a shot rather than waste the panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmonday Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Without a doubt. I have a butt-load of work in that panel not even considering the material cost. TIODS, how do you wet them down...soak, like in a tub of water or spray one or both surfaces. Sorry to be so anal but wanna get this right. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Just a spray bottle and I only spray the top surface. I come back every few hours and spray a little more but, don't lose sleep over it You'll need to sand a bit when done as you're going pop the grain but, that's not a big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-astragal Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Panels seem to always cup concave. The top face gets a little drier than the bottom face. Flip it over and see what happens. Or mist water on it like was said. If the material was stable before it was glued up it should still be so I'd guess you have a dry side and a wet side. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I wet the inside of the cup, that is the surface you want to expand to flatten the panel. Then clamp to a flat surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmonday Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Very nice feedback! I'm headed to the shop with spray bottle in hand. I'll let ya'll know how the wood turns in about 24 hrs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Good luck Blu, hope it turns out well for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Call it a "design feature" and move on. Really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Concave is the dry side. The traditional lumber yard fix from across the pond deep in the mountains is to lay the concave side on damp grass in the sun. Monitor carefully. You can usually dramatically reverse the cup. You may introduce some twist. Another method flash drys the convex by laying the concave on your bench and taking a hair dryer or heat gun to the convex. Another method that may reduce cup but introduce some twist. These methods are far more effective in the rough but have saved an old furniture piece for me a time or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatworks Today Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 This works depending on the thickness of the wood.. Any Q's please let me know... It's an older vid on my other channel, (don't laugh too much!) but the info is still relevant .. EDIT: Sorry, didn't realize this was under the Guild heading.. Not a member yet, but working on it ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Keep in mind that the final glueup of the case may very allow you to force the panel flat. Assemble, clamp, and drive the screws. 1/8" really isn't that bad. And if these wet correction methods actually work for you, make sure you assembly quickly afterward to lock the panel in a flat orientation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmonday Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Thanks Mark. With the recessed screws reducing the 'meat' I didn't want to take a chance with "pulling it in". If all fails I'll certainly try it (dry fit) before committing to a replacement panel. I did a quick check on progress and I believe the panel will be as flat as flat can be. My plan is to finish all routing, sanding, and assembly all in one swoop. The case will be assembled before the clock strikes mid-night (actually well before but it will be done by then). Hopefully that'll tame the beast. If it all works out it'll be a red-letter day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmonday Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Several hours later.... Couldn't have asked for a better result. While the panel was not perfectly flat is was very close....close enough to safely pull it in with screws. My plan was to lock it in with glue and screws tonight but I simply ran outta steam. I dry fit the case and clamped it every which way but loose so it shouldn't move again. Trip to the big box in the morning for screws and will do final finish before glue up. Many thanks to all who responded (talkin about cha TIODS!). Even though I've been working wood for a number of years I never knew a panel could be un-cupped and not only did I save my panel but I learned a lot too. Moving forward from here.....see you on the Guild. Blu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Happy to help Blu and glad it worked out for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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