ChrisG Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 I have the same BS as Mel. Does everything I need. What are you giving up. I'm not sure. Might need to take a little more time setting up dialing in the Griz, and optimal use you'll need to keep it dialed in. I have the impression that with the super powered bandsaws (just because of their weight and power) you can probably get a away having them lightly less perfectly dial (though they are probably a little easier to dial in) and I'd guess you can also get away with letting the blade go a little longer (get duller) before changing it. You can also run the big carbide blades on the bigs saws, but unless you are resawing veneer all day you probably don't need that or even want that. Anyway, big fan of the GO555 with the riser. I got mine used with a a drill press to boot for $400. It had been sitting in a garage nearly unused for 5+ years so mine took some time to get dialed in, but once i got it dial in it worked great. I don't do a ton of resawing and I don't generally work with crazy hardwoods but I have resawed 10+ " of walnut on it...so it does everything I need and more. This is the saw that I was going to get until I ran across the ad for my Griz. If I were going to buy a new 14" BS that could run on 110v (or 220), didn't want to spend over 1k, but also wasn't worried about ultimate bang for buck that is still what I would get. Little more powerful, more refined, probably a little easier to dial in. Again though, for the money you can't beat the Griz. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFatBaron Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 I just wanted to say this is a great discussion. My wife agreed that I should spend some of my yearly bonus on tools to reduce the time spent driving to my woodshop. I figure a lunchbox planer will be one of the purchases, and a new hand plane or two, but the whole tracksaw vs bandsaw vs tablesaw issue is complicated due to the lack of space, bad access, and the fact that I only have 2 open slots in my breaker panel (plus 2 taken up by a 220 breaker that's totally disconnected). On the bandsaw issue, the one thing is that it seems much easier to control dust from a bandsaw, even with a shopvac, than a tablesaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 I just wanted to say this is a great discussion. My wife agreed that I should spend some of my yearly bonus on tools to reduce the time spent driving to my woodshop. I figure a lunchbox planer will be one of the purchases, and a new hand plane or two, but the whole tracksaw vs bandsaw vs tablesaw issue is complicated due to the lack of space, bad access, and the fact that I only have 2 open slots in my breaker panel (plus 2 taken up by a 220 breaker that's totally disconnected). On the bandsaw issue, the one thing is that it seems much easier to control dust from a bandsaw, even with a shopvac, than a tablesaw. If you haven't used a small bandsaw I would see if you could find a place to test drive one to see it they meet your expectations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFatBaron Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 I've used a couple bandsaws... a 14" Jet, and a 16" Steel City (the sizes might be off, but it sounds about right) at the shop I rent time at. The Jet is fine, but it's small, and generally set up with a 1/4" (or similar) blade for curves. The bigger SC saw drives me nuts. I'm not sure if the blade is crap (it's normally got a 1"-ish blade), but it wanders all over the place, and the fence is a piece of crap. It's probably a combination of not being a great machine and not being well set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted February 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Think I'm going to go with the GO555 that Mel mentioned and try to finagle it as a Retirement/Father's Day/B'Day present Friday is my last day in uniform - gonna miss it but there ya go more time for woodworking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Tony, I would get the 6" riser at the time of purchase.Also, the HTC mobile base is awesome. Especially for those of us with small shops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted February 20, 2014 Report Share Posted February 20, 2014 Think I'm going to go with the GO555 that Mel mentioned and try to finagle it as a Retirement/Father's Day/B'Day present Friday is my last day in uniform - gonna miss it but there ya go more time for woodworking. Thanks for your service Tony! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Had pretty much decided on the Grizzly and got the thumbs up from my household 6 (i.e. the wonderful bride). I had asked a question of Hammer about their bandsaws. Didn't get an email back, got an actual phone call. I like that and also like the fact that it is made in Austria. Don't know if I can justify it being 3-4 times as much though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwalter5110 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I have the grizzly bandsaw the Mel has also. I also have the riser block installed, and honestly, it does all that I could ask of it. The only problem I have with the saw is the guide bearings. They aren't sealed and over time they get filled with saw dust and don't spin. I am currently looking for better replacements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freddie Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I have the grizzly bandsaw the Mel has also. I also have the riser block installed, and honestly, it does all that I could ask of it. The only problem I have with the saw is the guide bearings. They aren't sealed and over time they get filled with saw dust and don't spin. I am currently looking for better replacements. Carter or laguna makes their guides for other makers saws, they may have a kit for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Have you pulled the trigger on the G0555 yet? I have had this bandsaw for the last 2 1/2 years, it's a decent bandsaw and for the price you really cannot beat it. However, if I were contemplating getting the Hammer or G0555 and funds were available this discussion would be a mute point. The Hammer would win hands down!!! The only exception would be if you had a set budget and were trying to buy a few tools with those funds, then I could understand making tradeoffs with certain tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 The problem with the Hammer (besides being $1500+ more) is that it is a 220v only. I don't have 220v in my shop and that's an extra expense plus finding the electrician. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I can understand 220v being an issue, I have the same problem. let me throw one more bandsaw into the picture. Here is 110v bandsaw that Laguna just introduced. 1 3/4 HP and comes with their guides just like all their other bandsaws. If you live near a Rockler you might be able to pick it up there or at least order through them. This bandsaw was not an option when I bought mine. Had it been available I would have found the extra money for it. Here is the link to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 1) Your Bride's a keeper. A woman like that is fun to grow old with.2) Definitely, thank you for your service3) Love my Grizz G0555 w/ riser block.4) Wouldn't it be nice to be the guy that invented the pocket hole jig. I could buy all of the walnut I wanted and even a piece or two of spalted maple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Update: the Grizz GO555 Anniversary edition should be here tomorrow. Didn't remember to order the riser with it at the same time. I've also read on a thread on here that I should chunk the blade that comes with it immediately and get a better one - true? If so, what would you recommend for resawing and ripping American hardwoods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikem Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I have been very happy with my timberwolf blades. As for not getting the riser, use the saw for awhile without, determine if you really do need it. I didn't order the riser with mine either, and haven't found I needed it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I’ve been looking at one or both of these... http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004810/7814/timber-wolf-bandsaw-blade-9312-x-14-x-6-tpi-positive-claw.aspx http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004810/7415/timber-wolf-bandsaw-blade-9312-x-34-x-3-tpi-alternate-set-special.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 I have had good results from the Olson blades from Woodcraft. I am still using the resaw blade I bought, and it just keeps on going. I am sure it is on its way out, but it has been strong from awhile. Also, can't go wrong with the Laguna blades. I bought a small one, and I love it! I'll be trying more of their blades soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiback46 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 If I remember correctly the alternate set-special were blades best suited for green wood, its the one most commonly used by turners, but they may have change their labeling. I have the 1.5 HP Rikon, and for a while had the 3/4" 2/3TPI Timberwolf. It worked. I have since started using the Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking, and it is fantastic. It has a significantly smaller kerf, which I find great for resawing as well as working a bit better our "underpowered" bandsaws. The cut it leaves is great as well, it takes me about half as many strokes to clean up as did the Timberwolf. I haven't noticed any difference in wandering switching from a 3/4 to a 1/2", so I will probably be buying the Woodslicers from now on. The other blade you list is another one I have. I got it for tight curves, though honestly I haven't put it on too much since I got the Woodslicer. If I started doing a lot of reindeer or llamas, I would probably switch blades. Switching band saw blades is not as easy as switching table saw blades, it requires re-tensioning and tracking, adjusting all the guides, then depending on what you are doing/how confident you set the gullets dead center on the wheels resetting the fence(if you use it) for drift. So I try not to change blades that often. That said its a decent blade for thin stuff and tight curves, but I find myself using the 1/2" Woodslicer for everything I can, and only switching to that blade as a last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 If I started doing a lot of reindeer or llamas, I would probably switch blades. My spidey sense was tingling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wilkins Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Wouldn’t want to switch blades too often. I mostly use cherry and walnut and right now I am envision using mostly for resawing and ripping. Which Olson specifically should I look at. I mentioned the TW alternate set - special because one site I saw it was labeled as resawing blade. The laguna blades seem to get all good reviews but are they really worth 5 times as much as just about every other blade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 The Resaw King probably is...but that's a different beast because it has carbide teeth like a table saw blade. I'm gonna find out as soon as I get my second bandsaw up and running and set up permanently for curves. Then I'll put the RK on my 17". I've been using a 3/8 3TPI Timberwolf on my 17" saw for a long time and have used only that one blade for resaw/rip/curves (too lazy to switch blades...hence the second saw). It does all three jobs okay but none great. It won't cut tight curves like a skinnier blade will, and it cuts slower and rougher than the RK will. If you plan to cut shop-made veneers but don't have a drum sander, the RK might be worth the investment. For regular resaw, the TW or WS blades (or any other decent aftermarket blade) will be fine...you'll just have a bit more waste planing off the rougher cut marks. I've never been that worried about a rough cut right off the bandsaw...it's never a glue- or finish-ready surface off ANY blade, so as long as it cuts straight and "fast enough," I haven't found a reason to complain too much...except for not being able to cut tight curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Tony, I'll check which Olson blade I have. Keep in mind I haven't tried the other blades, so I can't say it's "better" or not. All I can say is it's been a good blade and has certainly been worth the $25 or so bucks it cost me.And aside from reindeer/other animals, I have used that blade for everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted May 4, 2014 Popular Post Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Ok, so not cheats exactly, but power tools to aid in my woodworking for fast projects and large scale things like a fort for the kiddies. 1. A track saw - I've considered a bandsaw but I think a circular saw with a track might be more useful. How well would one work for those rips I don't want to make occasionally? 2. A pocket screw jig - for those times I want to slap something together quick. (Should I ever want to make something that won't last until the wood is petrified?) 3. A domino - same as 2 but a little more permanent. This one is the one I'm least considering. So what do ya think? Should I? Hi Tony Machinery is not a "cheat". What/whom would you be cheating? I am 64 years "young", still pretty strong and fit (touch wood), and a small amount of moderate-heavy planing is enjoyable. However, the wood I work with is hard and heavy, and there is no way that I am going to use the small amount of my shop time flattening and thicknessing all my boards by hand. In any event, not only is this not where the important skills lie, but in Ye Days of Olde, much of the wood used for furniture building would have been purchased pre-dimensioned (how I would work if alone) or dimensioned by apprentices (in a large shop). What is important to me is that I do proper traditional joinery in furniture of my own design, working with attractive wood, and enjoying good handtools. What this means is that anything that makes non-traditional joinery is out. Out go pocket-hole jigs, out goes the Domino, out goes the biscuit joiner. Now I am not saying that you should not own one of these tools, but that I would not use them to build the furniture I make. I do have a biscuit joiner, although it is a relic from my machine-only days (20 years ago). It occasionally gets used when I build something out of sheet goods (which is rare). The point is that tablesaws and bandsaws, drill presses, jointers, thicknessers (planers) and even routers, all have a valid place in a workshop. It is not that power is used, but what it is used for. For me, all the joinery and finishing is done by hand, because that is where the fun lies. Plus the detail work is best done by hand, and there are many operations that will look coarse when completed by machines. A bandsaw is a wonderful machine. I have a Hammer 4400, which is rated at 4 hp and requires 220v (actually, it expected to be hooked up to 20 amps, although it will get by on 15 amps), so part of the expense of this machine lies in installing the power at home. I am not sure what the smaller 3800 uses. The Hammer is a lifetime machine. I have recently purchased the Hammer A3-31 combination thicknesser-jointer with Helix blades. It is amazing, and ultra quiet. So you see, I am a "blended woodworker" and see no reason to feel guilty or embarrassment - woodworking is all good. Regards from Perth Derek 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 That was a great reply from Derek! Tony, I just put a Timber Wolf 1/2" 3 TPI blade on my G0555P and very happy with it so far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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