Wish me luck - first dovetails


Tony Wilkins

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triple H got it right, just be the saw!... If you're the saw!

Not the first time I've been called a tool to be sure ;)

 

Ok, got the tails set up in the vise and everything in place.  Think I might take advice given and get some of my poplar scrap and do a practice with it.

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Well, glad I tried a practice joint.  Learned a lot but it was in no way successful.  Of course I cut a lot of corners so it wasn't a good test.  I only used pencil marks and didn't mark the back so the back kerfs ended up higher.  My angles were marked with a little dovetail marking jig but apparently sawn by a sight impaired person.  Probably wasn't the best time to try my coping saw for the first time either. Worked on it a bit but everything was so far from fitting it was a lost cause.

 

So, after lunch, set up for another practice run with a little more care.

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Single it is.  What I was leaning toward but considered it since they said it was easier.  So here's what I have so far...

 

DSCF1931_zps9114c288.jpg

 

above: used a couple of sets of dividers to line out 3/8" half pins and 5 tails.

below: and what I have after penciling down the dovetail angles using my little jigger.

 

DSCF1933_zps357510ee.jpg

 

* also used Moving Filister plane to put a small 140 trick rebate on the back.  Not pictured is using a gauge to put in the baseline on all four sides.

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I agree with gang cut tails first but I am a heathen jig and router dovetailer. Lots of the layout and setup work is common.

I take it in stages, stock needs to be squared up ,equal thickness, and uniform dimensions. Layout has to be exact and detailed, learned the hard way to mark both sides of everything cause you know you might have to cut something from the other side. Until your cutting skills develop cut leaving all of your lines then pare, file etc till it fits.

Keep plugging on the test cuts and keep learning from your mistakes. You are on the right path.

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==>they said it was easier

==>Gang cut if you're doing tails first.

==>now I have a vote going the other way

OK, I'll qualify my answer: gang-cut if it's thin drawer stock... With thin stock (5/16) drawers, gang cutting can be much easier. But you're doing a tool chest, so assume you're not looking at 5/16 stock :)

 

Saws have effective ranges based on tooth pattern. Mark (BAT) just published a nice graphic summarizing working ranges for various tooth patterns... Dedicated dovetail saws (e.x. BAT) have a typical working range of 1/4 - 5/4, with the fine dovetailers (e.x. Gramercy) at 3/16 - 3/4.

 

If you want to regularly gang-cut, you might look at a 12"x.02x14ppi Rip... That'll take you to about 6/4...

 

Plate thickness also comes into play --- Most of the new-generation dovetailers are 0.18 or 0.15 plates -- gang-cutting is a bit iffy below 0.18

 

BTW: I've got all three dovetail saws mentioned -- I only gang-cut with the 12"x0.2

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==>My dovetail is a 12"x.2x14 point hybrid filed Bad Axe

Got one just like it...

 

BAT 12"x.02 is my go-to dovetailer. Why? I dimension 99% of my drawer sides/back to 5/16, so I gang-cut about 80% of the time.... With that saw, you can dovetail to a combined total thickness of just about of 6/4 --- give or take.

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Get Ian Kirby's The Complete Dovetail and reset.  I don't think you're ready for carcass dovetails.  Please don't take this as an insult.  You need to make a couple boxes, Shaker candleboxes, something like that, before you tackle dovetails on large workpieces.  You also need to make sure that you can 4-square your large-ish panels to a pretty tight tolerance or the whole thing will give you fits. 

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