First real project, sapele cabinet to house Bearded Dragon, WoW themed

[CandorLush]

11 hours ago, wdwerker said:

I hope it can be partially disassembled to run wires and cut holes. I learned that any project that envolves installation of devices or technology demands pre planing and test fitting long before anything gets glued up. I learned that plumbers and electricians can destroy a cabinet so I read all the appliance install spec's and cut accurate holes .

Agreed, nothing but the inner box and the top has any glue and I won't be gluing it up until we are finished with the inner box so we have all of the wiring and lighting located and I can adjust as needed.

[wdwerker]

Your project is looking very good ! Glad to hear you can disassemble .

[CandorLush]

Well poop, thank goodness for Amazon and one day shipping. The down side of going from 6/4 to 8/4.

[..Kev]

You're not running that board between the bit and the fence are you?

[CandorLush]

Haha, no, picture purpose only

[Llama]

6 minutes ago, TIODS said:

You're not running that board between the bit and the fence are you?

[..Kev]

1 minute ago, CandorLush said:

Haha, no, picture purpose only

Cool..  In that case, glad you have the new bit coming

 

[CandorLush]

Damn, missed a good chance for a "should I be?"

[mat60]

Enjoy seeing your project Lush.

[bushwacked]

On 10/28/2016 at 6:44 PM, TIODS said:

You're not running that board between the bit and the fence are you?

what would happen if he did? is it just the size of the board and the smaller bit or what?

[..Kev]

1 hour ago, bushwacked said:

what would happen if he did? is it just the size of the board and the smaller bit or what?

It would become a torpedo across the shop!

[CandorLush]

Either from it getting a catch during a climb cut or getting caught between the bit and the fence, it would be getting stuck in my drywall or my liver

[CandorLush]

So I cut the first 8/4 leg and, proportionally, it looked awful. Picked up some more 6/4 and have all 4 legs remade to the new height. I am starting to lay out the joinery on the new legs after designating each new leg to the corresponding old leg.

I have come far enough that I might end up cutting new cross-members and rails so I can end up finishing both cabinets....

[Brendon_t]

I'm a bit confused. if you shaped them from 8/4 and didn't like it, why go buy all new material to build new legame, who not send them ungrounded the planer on their side,  bam.. 6/4 legs already shaped

[CandorLush]

7 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

I'm a bit confused. if you shaped them from 8/4 and didn't like it, why go buy all new material to build new legame, who not send them ungrounded the planer on their side,  bam.. 6/4 legs already shaped

It was definitely a consideration but the quality of the cut from the router bit was really poor so I didn't feel like I could salvage that piece. As for the rest of the stock I had, I was left with either having a ~3/8" thick board or throwing away a 1/2" of wood in the dust bin.

It just seemed easier and now I can use the 8/4 to make the second set of rails to end up with two finished cabinets.

[CandorLush]

Sorry, forgot to post the last few updates! I got the new legs finished, the top is cut to approximate size (after I took the picture)and I built the bottom doors.

This was my first time using veneer, I used titebond 3 and lots of clamps because that's what I have on hand. The "wet" pic is with some odorless mineral spirits wiped on. 

Here are the lower doors in the test fit

Did some finish samples and dropped them off with my friends to pick which they want. Danish oil and shellac, danish oil and lacquer, arm r seal, and endurovar, left to right. 

[shaneymack]

Sorry, forgot to post the last few updates! I got the new legs finished, the top is cut to approximate size (after I took the picture)and I built the bottom doors.

This was my first time using veneer, I used titebond 3 and lots of clamps because that's what I have on hand. The "wet" pic is with some odorless mineral spirits wiped on. 

Here are the lower doors in the test fit

Did some finish samples and dropped them off with my friends to pick which they want. Danish oil and shellac, danish oil and lacquer, arm r seal, and endurovar, left to right. 

This is looking amazing ! What finish do you prefer out of four?

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

[CandorLush]

2 hours ago, shaneymack said:

This is looking amazing ! What finish do you prefer out of four?

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I like the ARS a lot but the Danish oil and lacquer looks good too. The Endurovar showed too much of the red from the timbermate but I was also wiping it on. 

[drzaius]

I really like how the light banding show in the ARS sample.

[CandorLush]

Made up a loose tenon jig for a 1/4" up spiral bit to get the top doors put together. So far they came out great, I cleaned them up, sanded with 150 and set them aside with the other two. 

I was also able to cut mortise for and fit the hinges on the front legs with the long weekend. They are 2" antique pewter mortise hinges by Classic Brass. 

I might actually finish this thing one day! 

[CandorLush]

And we have all four doors!

[Tpt life]

Pic does not show here. 

[CandorLush]

3 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

Pic does not show here. 

Better?

 

[Tpt life]

42 minutes ago, CandorLush said:

Better?

 

Yep!

[CandorLush]

Question time!!! I need to figure out the shelf to fit in the lower section behind the veneered doors (the top will just have some notched cross members like a bed for the cage portion to slide on)

1) I have a piece of the ribbon stripe ply that is big enough but the grain is running front to back, not side to side

2) I have enough solid sapele to do the whole base with side to side grain. I would probably resaw it to 3/8"-1/2" and support underneath with secondary wood cleats

3) Since the shelf is only 6" off the floor, I could do a 6" strip of sapele along the front and a secondary wood for the rest, like a solid wood edge banding 

4) Obligatory something else