Immortan D Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 11 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Try warming the aluminum with one of those hot air paint removers (hair dryer on steroids), then shooting the bolt with a can of compressed air, those sold for dusting out your pc keyboard. Hold the can upside down, it will blow very cold. Also butane gas for lighters, it blows really cold. The problem is it's also explosive LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Is there any reason this bolt might have left hand threads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 23 hours ago, Ronn W said: Are your sure there isn't a not on the other end of the bolt? I have asked dumber questions! Been there, done that, but no... the aluminum itself is tapped. I've been heating both ends of the bolts, trying to "rock" the bolt out. That oil should be here any minute (Love Prime shipping, most of the time!). I meant that if I do muck up the aluminum, I'm not a good enough welder to repair it. I know what you meant with the nut :). last time I tried welding aluminum for practice, I ended up with 2 2" cubes liquefied all over my welding table. Now if it was titanium, that I weld in my sleep. 1 hour ago, K Cooper said: Is there any reason this bolt might have left hand threads? It shouldn't..... but I'll take another look. This never occurred to me. I have been trying to rock the bolts back and forth (there's two of em, and they're both stuck). But if it is.... there's probably a good reason craftsman just sold out to Stanley. Nope... normal thread..... I did have that Eureka moment when you mentioned that.... but no joy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 i have had decent luck with an impact driver getting stuck screws out. give it a couple of short bursts to make sure the bolt head is not real soft. if the screw is magnetic, replace it with a stainless steel screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Kroil oil has been applied, a couple times, still stuck, but I'll keep letting it soak. 3 minutes ago, Dave said: i have had decent luck with an impact driver getting stuck screws out. give it a couple of short bursts to make sure the bolt head is not real soft. One of my first inclinations, but I don't have a 6mm hex bit. I might shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 6 minutes ago, Marmotjr said: One of my first inclinations, but I don't have a 6mm hex bit. I might shortly. Sears has some good sales going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Marmotjr Posted January 5, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Weeeeeee! Victory. It only took 4 hours of soaking in that oil, a new hex driver, and a 18" pry bar on the socket. Popped them loose, turned them 1/2 turn, adjusted the fence, re-tightened. LOL.... sigh...... Thanks for all the input guys. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bankstick Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 18" pry bar? Good! I'm just glad that you didn't force it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted January 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 I was very gentle with it, even with the pry bar (ie, 18" pipe on the wrench handle). I had purchased a set of molde T handle allen wrenches, this was just an excuse to get a metric set too. I'm always swapping out jaws on my lathe chuck, and the L wrench is really annoying to use, so that was the other excuse for the ASE set. But with the wrench starting to twist in the TS bolt, I knew I needed more. I just didn't have a socket to fit it, nor a metric L wrench. I'm sure it was 70% the oil and 30% wrench. So again, thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 41 minutes ago, Marmotjr said: I was very gentle with it, even with the pry bar (ie, 18" pipe on the wrench handle). This is the benefit of the correct tool (leverage in this case.) Often, fasteners are rounded or buggered because the force exerted on a small tool takes the user out of alignment. The gentle pry on a longer lever can typically allow you to focus more on the lines of force. The leverage becomes a problem when you have not taken other steps to ensure thread direction etc. So many poo-poo the leverage because it is done badly, but it is not always wrong. Glad you got it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Staehling Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 Not sure if it is the answer for this task, but I have found a manual impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) to work really well for breaking bolts loose. I have this one and it works very well. It has loosened bolts when everything else failed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 1 hour ago, Pete Staehling said: Not sure if it is the answer for this task, but I have found a manual impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer) to work really well for breaking bolts loose. I have this one and it works very well. It has loosened bolts when everything else failed. These work especially well with Phillips head bolts, which tend to cam out under high torque. They combine the twist with high downward force. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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