Fox's Modern Table

[Denette]

Hey guys!  It's looking like I'll get to go pick up lumber tomorrow morning for the modern-ish side table from my "Design advice" thread.  I'll journal this build, since I figure it'll be a fun one with a few learning experiences.  I'm calling it Fox's Modern Table because our baby boy will be named Fox.  (Hopefully the thread won't get too derailed with talk about the name choice, haha!  It just came to my wife and we both like it.)

So, first order of business: The ever-controversial cherry strip, lovingly(?) christened the "racing stripe."  I'm not sure yet whether or not it'll be part of the final product.  Whether or not it gets included is pretty much dependent upon whether or not my lumber dealer has any really good quarter sawn figured oak when I pay him a visit tomorrow.  I want the top and right side to have a little flair, so I figure that if there isn't any figure in the lumber I pick up, I'll stick with the cherry strip.  Just for the heck of it, I added a poll over it, even.  Have your say.  Either way, though, the rest of the piece will be white oak, unless I just find a killer deal going on when I visit tomorrow.  So there are two possible outcomes:

It is my desire to do a blind mitered dovetail joint on the right side, for both miters.  For anyone unfamiliar with it, it's this joint: 

I'm relatively new to dovetails, and, just like when I decided I'd start drinking coffee by jumping right in with the most intense unsweetened black coffee possible, I figured I'd start doing my dovetails the hard way.  I will be attempting to do something of a hybrid approach to this joint, removing the bulk of the waste with power tools and finessing the joint with hand tools.  It just seems silly to me to hand tool all of it.

Additionally, I'm planning on making the vertical bit, to the left of the drawers, have a sliding dovetail along its length.  Between the sliding dovetail more-or-less on the left end and the mitered blind dovetail on the right, the piece will more or less be held together mechanically.

I'm shooting for all solid wood construction, though I'm still not totally sold on a solution for how to attach that base without metal fasteners.  We will see how that ends up working out - fortunately it's not a critical decision just yet, and if it comes down to it I can compromise there.  I really don't want to use figure-8 fasteners, but I do have some, so it's not like the project will fall apart at the last minute.

Anyway, it's looking like this thing is about to get underway!  I can still make a few design adjustments if there's something about it that's just totally out of proportion or awful, but I'm moving forward with the project, so I figured I'd make a new topic over here in project journals so I could chronicle the process.

EDIT: If you're a mobile user, you can't see the poll in Tapatalk, but it is there on the actual website if you want to chime in.

[prov163]

Although I voted for make it from one species, I think the base/legs would be cool in all cherry.  Or the entire top.  For me it just seems odd with the stripe.  All that said, you should do it the way you want to and the way you'll be happy with in the end!  Make sure to post a Journal!

[Alan G]

Looking forward to following this build, especially those blind mitered dovetails. Way to jump in on that one!

As far as the base connecting to the top...I think a few counter bored oversized holes up through the base stretchers for some screws would be just fine. One just a bit in from each leg should be more than sufficient.

[SawDustB]

Blind mitered dovetails? You really don't like to do things the easy way. I'll be interested to see how it turns out. It's got a funky retro feeling to it.

 

And I'll be disappointed if you get rid of the stripe. I actually think it works with the piece.

[Al Capwn]

I am going to just steal what Eric and prov163 said in another thread about this joint:

If I was gonna invest that kind of time into learning a joint like that, you better believe it's gonna be visible. 

Bravo if you decide to tackle it though, but only you and a few fellow woodworkers will get the smug satisfaction of knowing how it was put together. It is essentially a magic trick for magicians, and not the general audience:

Woodworker: See that corner? It's dovetailed. 

Layman: No it isn't. Also, dovetails are those things on drawers. Here, let me show you this Ana White design... 

[Denette]

I am going to just steal what Eric and prov163 said in another thread about this joint:

If I was gonna invest that kind of time into learning a joint like that, you better believe it's gonna be visible. 

Bravo if you decide to tackle it though, but only you and a few fellow woodworkers will get the smug satisfaction of knowing how it was put together. It is essentially a magic trick for magicians, and not the general audience:

Woodworker: See that corner? It's dovetailed. 

Layman: No it isn't. Also, dovetails are those things on drawers. Here, let me show you this Ana White design... 

Lol

 

I'm more interested in the structural element of the dovetails - not that they don't look nice, but if they're done right they seem pretty bombproof.

[Denette]

Last night I decided I'd practice that crazy mitered dovetail joint on the racing stripe top I already had made, figuring, "well, if I mess it up then I'll know to make a solid top."

I made it about this far before I had to turn in for the night. Honestly I'm not so scared of this joint now, it's just a little tedious. Really, the worst that can happen is the completely hidden dovetails are a little snaggletoothed, but that's totally fine. If the miter doesn't quite line up I'm sure I can fiddle with it to get it there.

 

I did make an important decision today! Based on my practice last night, I remembered something that decided the materials for the project. What did I remember? Chiseling in cherry is way easier than chiseling in oak.

 

 

That combined with a really good sale on cherry at my hardwood dealer leads to the exciting surprise ending of the race stripe saga: I'm making the whole thing in cherry! Solid cherry everything, with poplar drawer interiors.

 

Sometimes I forget to take workability into account when designing projects. Cherry will be a pleasure to dovetail. I've learned how to do things often enough to know that, when trying something new, I do best with the highest quality materials and the most difficult implementation. To work with oak while trying this joint would be more a test of my patience than an opportunity to learn a new joint.

 

I start milling this afternoon!

[Eric.]

7 minutes ago, Denette said:

I'm making the whole thing in cherry! Solid cherry everything, with poplar drawer interiors.

Classy move.  I think you'll be happy with that decision ten years from now.

The mitered dovetails are a worthy endeavor.  They'd take more time than I'd be willing or able to commit at this moment in my life, but putting yourself through any challenging learning experience makes you a better woodworker, and that's what it's all about.

[Alan G]

I think that will look great in cherry. Nice choice. 

[Dknapp34]

Good call on the cherry. Not only does it look great, but it's a pleasure to work.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Denette]

I milled a little today, then realized that, since I was milling anyway, I needed to make the gap stop for my Roubo. I still had a few boards of rough ash laying about, so I made that today instead!

 

I'm going to let the cherry acclimate to my shop for now - it's been in air conditioning and now it's not, so probably best not to totally mill it just yet. It's already getting hot out there, and it's been extremely humid for days.

[Denette]

Ok, so here's a wild idea I had.  I was reading an article on modernism in architecture, and noticed that I could really amp up the modernness of my design with a funky angle.  The time in which I can make big design decisions like this one is drawing to a close, so I'm not sure if I'll go with it - I'd love to hear some seasoned opinions about the design alteration pictured here:

 

It's definitely more modern-looking, and a heck of a lot funkier, which I like!  But then I'm prone to like an idea just because it is my own idea, not necessarily because it is a good idea.  I'm biased like that - perhaps we all are.  

 

What do the sages of the forum think?

[BonPacific]

Well, I'm no sage, but... not a fan. Feels like it's moving from "modern" into "parody-modern". Kind of like throwing all the G&G elements into a single piece.

If you really like the angle, try making it symmetrical. My guess is you won't like it either.

 

[Alan G]

I liked the original design. Simple. Nice.

[wtnhighlander]

Use bright paint in place of finish, you are venturing into "googie" territory.

[Coop]

Not my cup. Too much of the left side missing. 

[Denette]

Yeah, it's pretty bold and I'm not sold on it completely - just thought I'd float it out there.

 

I contacted my lumber dealer about some figured cherry for the top and side, and he said he'd have some for me this Saturday.  First time using figured cherry!  Anything special to note about working with it?  I know figured wood tends to tear out more easily, so I will need to take light passes.  

[Eric.]

Unless you find truly curly cherry (which is very rare), it doesn't really behave the same way curly maple does.  It does still have swirling grain and a number of grain direction changes, so you still have to be more careful than you do with run-of-the-mill cherry.  But cherry is such a cooperative wood to start with I don't find it that difficult to plane.  Take light cuts with a sharp blade, and pay attention to where the grain changes are.  Figured cherry is beautiful stuff.

[Denette]

Racing stripe schmracing schtripe. Figured cherry is gorgeous.

 

[Denette]

I've spent the last few days milling in increments to allow for movement, as well as gluing up a few panels.  I'm to the point now where I need to do something with this figured cherry.  I could only buy it in 5/4, so I'm a little torn here.  On the one hand, all the other parts on the project are 3/4" thick.  On the other, that seems like a lot of wasted material.  I'm leaning toward planing it down to a matching thickness, if for no other reason than that it'll make mitered corners much simpler (I only have 5/4 stock for the top and side, the bottom will be 3/4).  If I leave it thicker it will only be 7/8 or so.  Thoughts?

[Eric.]

The plan dictates your measurements, not the waste.  I know it's a shame to "waste" wood but you can't let frugality stand in the way of what's right for the design.  If 3/4" is the thickness that is most aesthetically pleasing, 3/4" it shall be.  Waste or no waste.  It's secondary to looks.  Always.  They should change the bumper sticker to "waste happens."

[Denette]

The plan dictates your measurements, not the waste.  I know it's a shame to "waste" wood but you can't let frugality stand in the way of what's right for the design.  If 3/4" is the thickness that is most aesthetically pleasing, 3/4" it shall be.  Waste or no waste.  It's secondary to looks.  Always.  They should change the bumper sticker to "waste happens."

 

Yeah, I was leaning towards milling them down. In the long run I want a consistent project, and I'll forget about waste but I'll never forget an odd difference of thickness that is visible on the finished project.

[Denette]

Tonight I finished milling down the last stock for the project - I took the figured material down to ¾" and also brought the material for the rear panel down to ½". I took my time with bringing it down to that thin to allow for any potential movement. I really didn't have any to speak of, but I figured it was better to take it safe.

 

Now I've got all the panels for the project glued up and the next time I get to work in it I'll get to start machining the boards and panels.

 

Figured panel, which will make up the top and right side:

 

 

½" thick rear panel gluing up, along with the middle shelf panel:

[Denette]

 

I had to get a preview of the figured panel before leaving for work here in a few minutes. I removed the excess glue with a card scraper and wiped the surface with mineral spirits for a grain preview. Man, this is going to look good. This is making me think ahead to finishing.

 

 

Is there a definite advantage of ARS over wipe-on poly when it comes to figured grains? Also, is the grain-popping method Marc used in his video on the pencil holder still good info? It's been a long time since he made that, and things change or new products are released. I'm looking at getting some Transtint medium brown for popping the grain. It's another first for me on this project.

 

[Alan G]

I think that some satin ARS will look great on this!

 One thing to remember however, especially since this is going to go into your baby nursery, the ARS is going to off gas for close to 30 days as it fully cures.