Fox's Modern Table


Denette

Cherry Strip, yay or nay?  

23 members have voted

  1. 1. Should the table have the "racing stripe" top?

    • No, no!! My eyes!!!! Burn it! Make if from one species!
      13
    • Eh, it's okay, I don't really care much either way.
      6
    • I kind of like it, actually. *ducks and hides*
      4


Recommended Posts

 

You might look at cshardware.com or leevalley.com which both have large catalogs of hardware.

 

I can vouch for csharsware as having excellent quality product. I put a series of their pulls on all the kitchen, bath and laundry cabinets and drawers in my house.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the tip! I've checked Lee Valley but haven't heard of CS before. I'll check it out.

 

This morning: drawer sides

80876a5072fd9f75b8fc3411646d7e02.jpg8c83c723e943d725ed74e6d1f0cd221c.jpg

The original plan was to use poplar, but the table just turned out so well that I couldn't help but use something nicer, so I'm using ash left over from my Roubo. First time dovetailing drawers and first time doing solid-wood drawer bottoms. Woo!

 

Add that to my list of firsts for this project:

Dovetailed drawers

Solid wood drawer bottom

Friction-fit drawers

Hot BLO finish

Modern furniture

Solid cherry furniture

Figured wood

Blind mitered dovetail joint

Solid wood back panel

Crisscross legs

Angled legs

Sliding dovetail key base attachment

Hand-planed chamfer

 

 

I think my goal to try to learn on this project has been met. Lol.

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Went ahead and plunked down 5 bucks at Home Depot on the knobs I was considering because my bathroom has one cabinet that needs two knobs, and if I didn't like them for the drawers I could always reassign them. That said, I'm pretty pleased! I really like the shape of these pulls.

3b3de1895f6c9d75541d186f6de5bf16.jpgaa25867fedf4672ddd1e44f8e81296e7.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's exactly the one I put on my Shaker table drawer, except mine was black.  That was before I realized I should be making all my own pulls out of wood. 

It's a good fit though.

 

Great minds think alike. I just realized that my arts & crafts lamp had the same knob in black as the height adjustment.

af8b4589b3ebae9e4c8d79440994dac7.jpg5c8339807f545d5c936a82d50e59f06e.jpg

 

Also, as for the current project, it's on hold for a few days while my new dovetail saw is shipped. The blind dovetails, as it turns out, had no need to appear tight and gapless and therefore suffered little from my crappy saw. The drawer dovetails need a more delicate touch, it would appear.

 

In the interim, the project is sitting in the house acclimating to its destination's humidity and temperature. I figure that doing that while still sizing the drawers is probably a good idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More dovetailing today. I got the solid drawer bottoms made up, milled the drawer backs, and got about ½ way through with the dovetails for the drawer backs before it was dinner time. Things are going pretty well. I'm getting the hang of using my dozuki- it seems like the slower I work the worse I do. Once I get a cut started I have to blaze through it or it ends up out of square.

 

Not much to report other than that!

e35e0a9107c5408053e580f70cc01ef7.jpg5f84faeb6703f93245a166c1e7abb22b.jpg08c55a5e0880cde9d9025eb094eb807a.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How thick are your drawer bottoms and how will you fix them to the drawers?

They are ½" thick and are going to sit in a rabbet that goes around the sides and front. It'll be glued in on the front, and have room for expansion at the back - the drawer back doesn't cover the end of the drawer bottom.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

f1b3c222b5baa567c4825583fe5a94e8.jpg

I haven't glued it together yet, but the drawer is dry fit, and the back in fits in nicely. I won't have to trim much on the back part of it. The front needs trimming. In the picture it is as far in as it will go. It's already got a nice degree of suction from how airtight the fit is.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Denette said:

 It's already got a nice degree of suction from how airtight the fit is.

I know that's a great feeling, but trust me...you don't really want that suction effect, practically speaking.  Before you glue up the drawer you might want to take about 1/4" off the top of the back, so the air can escape as you close it.  DAMHIK.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know that's a great feeling, but trust me...you don't really want that suction effect, practically speaking.  Before you glue up the drawer you might want to take about 1/4" off the top of the back, so the air can escape as you close it.  DAMHIK.

But look!

If it's annoying later I can always hand plane a dip into the top of the back.

 

Anyway, I'm pretty pleased!

3ea1a48126111a48e93d4278863c47c8.jpg

e52c0b036b56fe831f74f0f9d09d8204.jpg65c8283dde8cbc7b0eabaabb04c6daf4.jpg376edef4baf305f3878876244fff7e8d.jpgbdd11f36c6d46798b9c7faa7b36a75f3.jpg

(Haven't sanded these last two)

ef81a918966d668b0564b6fc13e78275.jpgc3be6be93d95f8da4e47ec98b4247442.jpg

On those back dovetails, the funny thing is that I didn't take into account the loss of drawer width when I added a shelf onto the sides to make transferring the dovetail lines easier, so it fits in and out with those pins protruding. I'm just leaving them that way because they help it keep from drifting from side to side when you pull it out. Whoops. At least it will hardly ever be seen!

 

Another happy accident is that I didn't quite measure right when rabbeting re drawer bottom, so there is a slight pillowed edge where I had to soften the gap between the drawer bottom surface and the actual part that went in the rabbet. There was going to be like a 1/32" bit that protruded up into the drawer to keep a little more thickness without scraping against the bottom. Oh well! Happy accidents.

3e8ec7058a457972f4ce571e184a57f9.jpg

 

Someone was asking how the bottom was attached, so here's a detail shot of that too:

b1c469a41a428ba3d33ce679f253f1df.jpg

 

It's coming together!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, also, the one problem that I actually am upset about: a teeny snipe mark is making the finish darker at one end of the drawer. Gah. 052ac0395fce3453416b4c90e868f5ae.jpg



Edit: And by teeny I mean imperceptibly shallow. It doesn't even show up when I lay a straight edge on it. It's like the wood is compacted or something, so it is absorbing finish at a different rate. It's annoying.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to sand down that drawer front and refinish it. You will see that discoloration forever and it will haunt you.

 

 

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

 

 

Yeah, I was hoping that it would be less noticeable after the cherry darkened up a bit, but you're probably right.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.