Jfitz

Stanley No 7 jointer ...score for me.

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I was vacationing with the family in NH and the wife found an "Antique Store" (usually, a place I refer to as  "other peoples junk" store) so we detoured after our departure to check it out.  It was in an old barn-style building and it had a room off the back mostly dedicated to tools.  I was mostly impressed with the number of moulding planes - if I was more into hand tools and I knew what to look for, I might have picked up several.  I did, however, pick up a Stanley No 7 jointer plane as I've been thinking about getting one for a while. They had 2, pretty much the same, but the one that looked like it had been cleaned up once in its long life looked in better shape  but the frog screws were butchered and the blade was terrible.  So I picked up the less expensive one and will spend some time cleaning it up.  Interestingly it has an owners name stamped on the side so I'll look that up to see if I can find any info.  I hope to put it in use soon.  They had a #8 corrugated but it was too much $$ IMO...

 

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I looks like its in pretty decent shape John, you going to restore it or just clean it up enough to use? And i have no idea about value, what did you have to pay, if you don't mind me asking.

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I'm looking to both restore and use it, if that makes sense. I'll disassemble it completely, cleanup each piece best I can, and although I'll clean up and sharpen the current blade I'll probably buy a newer one for it.  I don't know how far I'll go with the Japanning / Paint. Probably not much other than cleaning.  The knob and tote seem to be in good shape so I'll clean them up and use them and then go from there.  I paid $75 for it. Its sister was going for $95 and the No 8 I mentioned was $165.

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I've picked up most of my hand planes at antique shops. If you keep your eyes out, you can get good deals, ranging from $10 to $20 for block planes, #5's, etc. Of course there is some real junk out there as well. You can accomplish a lot of rust removal by simply soaking all the metal components in a mixture of vinegar and salt for a few days. At this price range, even if you get a dud that is in worse shape than you initially thought, you really aren't out much. 

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Ok Ok we digress, http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/ is how to date a Stanley plane, I assume that this has come up on this blog before.

I admit, if I was at a bar and she was covered with sawdust I might bring up how to date a Stanley plane!  Not sure if it would work, my shop is quite small.  Ok, I admit I collect Stanley Type #11 planes and would like to help jfitz with his find.

I went into a collectable place in Newburyport, MA a couple years ago and picked up two Stanley's, a #06 & #07 for $120, for the wood knobs and handles and when I got them home, looking them over I felt the #07 was not used much at all, OMG it created an education in how the Stanley finished the castings.

Cold And Not Wintery In MA, Tommy Hall

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5 hours ago, Tommy Hall said:

Interesting #07, is it a high knob or low knob and is there any patent dates on it.  Do you know how to date it? 

Hi Tommy.  I appreciate the help.   It looks to be a low knob, based in pictures I found online. I found several sites on how to date it - I used that Hyperkitten "flowchart" to date it and it indicates a type 9.  I have a "less nice" No 5 I picked up from a guy several years ago - I think I paid $20 for it and an old eggbeater drill.

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@RichardA has spruced up several old planes, a couple of which I now be the proud owner of and he does a darn nice job. I don’t know if he has a special technique or just drags them down the road behind his pu but you might quiz him on his secrets. 

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@Jfitz I have a #7 that I've been having a hard time getting to extend the blade low enough to take a shaving. Can you take a close up picture for me of the adjustment knob and the lever it interfaces with? It's a bit difficult to find online.

The #7 i have was given to me by a guy my dads age that i became woodworking buddies with a while back. I know it may be a bit of sacralige to some but i love the PMV-11 blades and chip breakers that lee valley sells. I have a couple in my old planes and they are wonderful.

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6 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I have a #7 that I've been having a hard time getting to extend the blade low enough to take a shaving. Can you take a close up picture for me of the adjustment knob and the lever it interfaces with? It's a bit difficult to find online.

Sure, I'll try to get to it tonight.  Do you already have a replacement blade in it?  Or the original blade?

 

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5 minutes ago, Jfitz said:

Sure, I'll try to get to it tonight.  Do you already have a replacement blade in it?  Or the original blade?

 

I have both but it's worse with the replacement. I do HAVE to widen the mouth yet. I just haven't worked on it because i don't really need a #7 but i do appreciate having it.

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4 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

I do HAVE to widen the mouth yet.

OK.  I was going to suggest that - I recall having to do that on an older #5 on which I upgraded to a newer (thicker) blade.

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3 minutes ago, Tom King said:

Chestnut,  Did you move the frog back to allow the blade a little more clearance?

Yes but to move it far enough the bevel makes contact and then doesn't extend far enough. Maybe I'll revisit this plane tonight and finally get it figured out.

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14 hours ago, K Cooper said:

@RichardA has spruced up several old planes, a couple of which I now be the proud owner of and he does a darn nice job. I don’t know if he has a special technique or just drags them down the road behind his pu but you might quiz him on his secrets

I don't have a pickup, so that method is out :)  It's not hugely pitted, so I was thinking of a white vinegar soak.....but I'm sorta leaning towards stopping at the box store and picking up some evaporust.

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I have had good luck with Evaporust, here's another one  DR X Rust Remover.  I have had no problems with modern thicker blades in my old Stanley's.  They're really nice in block planes with adjustable mouths.  Not sure if a replacement chipper is important, are there feelings on that issue out there?

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12 hours ago, Jfitz said:

OK.  I was going to suggest that - I recall having to do that on an older #5 on which I upgraded to a newer (thicker) blade.

Never mind on the picture.

7 hours ago, Tom King said:

Chestnut,  Did you move the frog back to allow the blade a little more clearance?

Yes i did and i found a sweet spot where i don't have to file away any of the mouth but the blade doesn't contact  any of the sole. I must have been in a rush the first time i set up the  plane.

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Works beautifully.

The clamps on the bending form seem like they've been in that position for weeks! Almost done!

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I had to do the same when I upgraded my #3 to a hock blade. It takes some fiddling especially if you don't have the frog adjustment screw.  

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30 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

i found a sweet spot where i don't have to file away any of the mouth but the blade doesn't contact  any of the sole.

Nice!  It looks good, especially with the Veritas blade and chipbreaker :)

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