Pair Of Bookshelves


Chestnut

Recommended Posts

Looking good.

On 9/10/2018 at 1:09 PM, Chestnut said:

Do you know what kind of kiln they are drying lumber in. They may be running to high temp on the kiln.

I have have a suspicion that Drying too fast or too hot is becoming the norm.  More "Stress relief" when ripping than there used to be.  At least it seems that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, K Cooper said:

Nut, just catching up to this. My initial reaction to the initial posted diagram was that the glue up was going to be a circle jerk and a disaster but you’ve handled far better than I could have. Looking good dude! 

Thanks. Prefinishing and the long open time of epoxy work wonders.

If i had to use only yellow glue this wouldn't work. To be fair the hard part will be Wednesday when i glue the whole thing together. I won't be surprised if i can't lift it by myself. And now that i think about it I'm not sure i have enough long clamps ... Gonna have to do a full dry run at least twice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just used West Systems today as an adhesive for the first time.  Prior to that, only to fill voids. Luckily,  from the advice of others to mix in a shallow container, I had plenty of work time. Sounds like you have your act together. Good luck bud! There is a neat “ Pick of the Tricks” in this months (Oct. 2018) Woodworkers Journal on recessing leg levelers. I’ll be using this in the future. Neat idea! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/16/2018 at 10:10 PM, K Cooper said:

Nut, just catching up to this. My initial reaction to the initial posted diagram was that the glue up was going to be a circle jerk and a disaster but you’ve handled far better than I could have. Looking good dude! 

Did the glue up last night .... practice with a dry run twice but as soon as the epoxy hit tenons and the time crunch started the S#(& hit the fan. I ended up getting it glued together but i had the whole thing fall apart once so I'm worried that some of the epoxy worked off of the tenons and aren't glued as well as they could be. I'll have to see what it's like tonight when i get home. I had to do the glue up on the floor because the side would needed to get lifted far over my head to gets set on top and hat just wouldn't work

4128211278504501399.thumb.jpg.d7882f15cabad91f24408b854e89e1ad.jpg

All in all I'm glad to have 1 done and now i only have 1 more to go.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Solvent based sprayable stains can be a joy to use. But Minwax sucks in my opinion. M L Campbell Woodsong stains come in Minwax colors (same parent company) . Spray on & wipe off the excess. Other spray on stains can be sprayed on & left on to dry. Haven't sprayed much water based stain yet.

Bookcase is looking good !

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, wdwerker said:

Solvent based sprayable stains can be a joy to use. But Minwax sucks in my opinion. M L Campbell Woodsong stains come in Minwax colors (same parent company) . Spray on & wipe off the excess. Other spray on stains can be sprayed on & left on to dry. Haven't sprayed much water based stain yet.

Bookcase is looking good !

I did think about sprayable and i still would have opted to wipe. The nooks and crannies would not be very fun to try and wipe excess out of and i know i'd end up with runs somewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You spray on a thin coat, let it sit for a few minutes then wipe back. A laminate sample chip or a credit/membership type card wrapped in a cotton rag gets into corners easily. I've been spraying almost all of my stain for over 10 years. It it sits too long/ gets too dark just spray it again & wipe immediately. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You adjust the liquid down to spraying a mist. Then you can use multiple passes to sneak up on the coverage you want. I often spray in vertical strokes for one pass then immediately follow it with horizontal strokes to get even coverage. 

Plastic laminate chips are usually free. Home centers may only allow you a few but grab some every time you pass a display. Cabinet shops and decorators usually have old chains you might get for free. I shim lots of things with them. Scrape glue with them. Wrapped in a rag to get into corners. Use them behind drawer slides to adjust the fit, screw through the convenient hole. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess my only other hesitation with spraying is the mess and stink. I also agree minwax stain sucks and wouldn't be using it if i didn't want these bookshelves to be the same color as what they will sit next to.

After this project I'm done with oil based stains period. I'm going to toss what i have left and if i want to change the color of wood i'm going to do it purely with transtint or powdered. I'd like to get good at spraying tinted Shellac.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, K Cooper said:

Speaking of transtint, I recently added it to ARS  and it seems like it was suspended and not mixed or dissolved. Is that to be expected? 

Yes transtint is alcohol and water soluble not oil. It's like trying to mix oil and water. I'm not sure there are oil based dyes, if there are i believe the industry term is stain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 50 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422.2k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,783
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    walo47
    Newest Member
    walo47
    Joined