Steve B Anderson

Diamond Hone Size

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I’ve finally obtained authorization from my CFO to upgrade my sharpening system from sand paper to diamond stones. I use the MKII honing guide and I’m not sure what size plate to buy. My largest  plane iron is 2.0” wide and my smallest chisel is 1/8” wide. 

I’ve been looking at the DMT plates and there are 6, 8, 10 and 11-1/2” lengths and 2-1/2”, 3” and 4” widths. Any suggestions on plate size would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

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13 minutes ago, Tpt life said:

Thumbs up to the CFO approval. For irons, 2.5” seems plenty. For plane soles or other use, wider might be nice. 

Thanks Tpt - I didn’t consider the plane sole width.

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5 minutes ago, Steve B Anderson said:

What length would you recommend?

Open the cat bag...

Theoretically, like saw strokes, I like a longer plate. Practically, there is a limit to the length of stroke I can control with precision. I tend to use my diamond plate to dress water stones, so I like a long plate for that as well. 

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For me, longer is always better. I can sharpen faster if I can take fewer, longer strokes. My control is not very good & with a shorter stone I find myself frequently overshooting the ends of the stone :( 

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I use the same system  you do. I've found that DMT's stones are best for planes and chisels to be the 8" x 3".  Ask Coop if my tools are sharp.  He says I need sharper.

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4 minutes ago, Steve B Anderson said:

I’ll be more than happy to provide you with more information. Just let me know what you need. 

Not accusing or asking, just don’t want any further readers to find this thinking it comprehensive in any way. Happy honing!

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7 minutes ago, RichardA said:

I use the same system  you do. I've found that DMT's stones are best for planes and chisels to be the 8" x 3".  Ask Coop if my tools are sharp.  He says I need sharper.

 

15 minutes ago, Tpt life said:

Not accusing or asking, just don’t want any further readers to find this thinking it comprehensive in any way. Happy honing!

Understandable - Thanks for your input. 

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18 minutes ago, RichardA said:

I use the same system  you do. I've found that DMT's stones are best for planes and chisels to be the 8" x 3".  Ask Coop if my tools are sharp.  He says I need sharper.

Richard - Coop is pretty good and I love the guy but your opinion is still noteworthy. So you are saying that an 8” stone is sufficient using the MKII?

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That's what I've been using for about 4 years.  That line about Coop was just bad humor.  I get a damn good edge with the 8 x 3's and the only thing I'd add is an extra fine.  I use coarse, medium and fine, and can slice end grain with no problem.  Coop's complaint, when he came up here to help me with an important project was that my chisels were to sharp, and caused him to leave DNA on the project.

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So I have a question.  I roll my honing guide on my waterstones.  Doesn't the diamond tend to wear down the roller on the honing guide??

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45 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

So I have a question.  I roll my honing guide on my waterstones.  Doesn't the diamond tend to wear down the roller on the honing guide??

Since it rolls, it probably doesn't wear out any faster than on any other stone. If the roller slammed on the brakes, there would be wear.  I'm just guessing. In four years of sharpening on them when I set the angle, it's still the same as the time before.  Just a thought... On waterstones don't you have to resurface them now and then?  Diamond stones don't need resurfacing.  You might get wear on the roller if you've concaved your stone.

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48 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

So I have a question.  I roll my honing guide on my waterstones.  Doesn't the diamond tend to wear down the roller on the honing guide??

I swear the roller guide wore the abrasive of the center of my diamond plate but ghee roller would take for ever to wear down.

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I get full stroke on shorter diamond plates by placing the in-use plate agaist a stop, and placing another plate face down behind it (closer to me). The guide roller can glide right onto the second plate, because they are the same thickness. 

Doesn't work if you mount your plates to a board, though.

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18 hours ago, Steve B Anderson said:

Thanks dzaius - but is wearing a channel in the plate any issue?

 

Just be sure use a stroke pattern that will cover the whole plate. I use waterstones for sharpening & have 1 big coarse DMT plate for flattening the stones & for removing lots of material from a chipped edge. 

I have noticed that the diamond plate will fairly quickly lose some of the sharp surface texture, but that it will continue to cut well in spite of that.

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I use diamonds for coarse work to get a blade fully "started over," and water stones for tune-up. For plane soles I stick sandpaper to a granite surface plate because I don't have to do that often.

I flatten the water stones on sandpaper/plate as well, even though I have to do that fairly regularly. It works, but the amount of work you do and speed of production. Requirements may guide your decision on that. I don't have to produce anything as it's totally a hobby for me, so speed isn't much of a factor. Once I get going, I kind of enjoy sharpening stuff (I'm probably in a tiny minority there).

My diamonds are 300 and 600, with a 1200 Arkansas stone in the middle, while the water stones go 3000/8000 and my stuff seems sharp; I can get "galoot" shavings on my arm hair :) 

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