Popular Post ..Kev Posted March 23, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 As the price point for a zero clearance insert on the PM2000B is a bit ridiculous, I made my own. I hadn't seen one of these videos so, thought I'd toss one together for anyone interested. Same process regardless of your table saw. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 23, 2019 Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 I would think that the one plus of the ply is it might be more stable if you were in a shop with changing conditions. The pup didn't like the squeaking epoxy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2019 2 minutes ago, Chet said: I would think that the one plus of the ply is it might be more stable if you were in a shop with changing conditions. The pup didn't like the squeaking epoxy. Yea, that got her attention! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted March 24, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 24, 2019 Many years ago I bought aluminum ZCI with replaceable inserts made of 1/4" Baltic birch. At one time it was easier and cheaper to just buy a bundle of the inserts then the supply of them dried up. The 1/4" Birch ply had to be ripped to a very exact width then a dovetail bevel routed on the edges. Once I am set up I cut an entire 5x5 sheet and make enough to last for many years. If you use thin kerf blades a ZCI can be reused for standard 1/8" kerf blades. Then you can reuse it yet again for dado cuts. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 24, 2019 Report Share Posted March 24, 2019 I swore i saw Marc "Fix" his table saw sled or a ZCI by taping it off epoxying the slot and recutting it. Changeable inserts would be easier but it's crossed my mind for my inserts that have gotten sloppy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2019 1 minute ago, Chestnut said: I swore i saw Marc "Fix" his table saw sled or a ZCI by taping it off epoxying the slot and recutting it. Changeable inserts would be easier but it's crossed my mind for my inserts that have gotten sloppy. Yep.. However, being a new saw, I didn't have any inserts. So, good time to just make a template and knock out as many as you'd like. Once you have the template, that's much faster than waiting for epoxy to cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pwk5017 Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Yeah, a blank SCI for my PM72 is over $100, i believe. Do you have a bit of flex in yours? My ply flexes a bit over the length of the opening if i push on it. The opening on the 72 is longer than the 2000 or 66, and it might be a non-issue for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 20 minutes ago, Pwk5017 said: Yeah, a blank SCI for my PM72 is over $100, i believe. Do you have a bit of flex in yours? My ply flexes a bit over the length of the opening if i push on it. The opening on the 72 is longer than the 2000 or 66, and it might be a non-issue for you. I could probably make it flex but, no, there's no real flex. The 2000B is longer than the 2000. I found this out when I ordered a ZCI and it was too short.. The inserts on the 2000B measure about. 15.5" long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 I plan on building a Maloof low back chair and bought the video and plans from Mr. Charles Brock. He is a great instructor and the videos were superb but, his zci leave a lot to be desired. I cringed on several of his fine cuts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 23 hours ago, Pwk5017 said: Yeah, a blank SCI for my PM72 is over $100, i believe. Do you have a bit of flex in yours? My ply flexes a bit over the length of the opening if i push on it. The opening on the 72 is longer than the 2000 or 66, and it might be a non-issue for you. 23 hours ago, ..Kev said: I could probably make it flex but, no, there's no real flex. The 2000B is longer than the 2000. I found this out when I ordered a ZCI and it was too short.. The inserts on the 2000B measure about. 15.5" long. The old Emerson/Craftsman 113. saws had a thin insert. Although my ZCI's were thicker and fitted via a rabbet around the outer edge, I still stiffened them with a piece of hardwood laminated to the bottom lengthwise. This was easy to do and made a definite improvement for those fussy cuts that put pressure on the ZCI. If you do this, remember to take the direction of your tilt into account. Been so long ago I couldn't find a pic. Just tossing this out there ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 I made a ZCI of Baltic birch a couple of years ago and tapped the plywood for the allen screws. the plywood took the taps well and I have had no problems. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 43 minutes ago, Ronn W said: I made a ZCI of Baltic birch a couple of years ago and tapped the plywood for the allen screws. the plywood took the taps well and I have had no problems. Interesting! I really didn't thing the BB ply would take the taps! That's good to know! One thing I didn't like about the ply was the amount of splintering when cutting the kerf. A little sanding takes care of it but, still quite a bit of splintering.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Strip of blue tape before the cut might help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 4 hours ago, ..Kev said: One thing I didn't like about the ply was the amount of splintering when cutting the kerf. Agreed. The softer wood in the plywd will also tend to get round off from the flying dust after awhile. I should probably make a new one (or batch). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Just out of curiosity, aside from the non zci that came with my saw, I bought 3 blank inserts. One I use for my 90* cuts both full and thin kerf blades. One I made for 90 to 45* tilt and the other for my dado stack. Do you guys have others for any other cuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 46 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Just out of curiosity, aside from the non zci that came with my saw, I bought 3 blank inserts. One I use for my 90* cuts both full and thin kerf blades. One I made for 90 to 45* tilt and the other for my dado stack. Do you guys have others for any other cuts? Where ours are set up for tilt, mine are generally set up for different configurations of my dado stack. 3/4", 1/2", and 1/4" dados. I have some blanks so, when the need comes up, I'll set one up for tilting the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 So if you need a 55* cut, you will use a fresh blank? My thinking on that is that I still have the same width left on the right side of the blade as I always have. My fence is 99% of the time to the right of my blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 40 minutes ago, K Cooper said: So if you need a 55* cut, you will use a fresh blank? My thinking on that is that I still have the same width left on the right side of the blade as I always have. My fence is 99% of the time to the right of my blade. I would pop a fresh insert in. Zero clearance is to prevent tear out on the material you're cutting. If the material is unsupported by the insert then, you loose the effectiveness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 27, 2019 Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 You’re probably right. I was thinking more of support on the right of the blade when running the board thru on edge or end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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