Dustijam Posted May 10, 2019 Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 The attached photo is a sample of a pine finish that really makes the grain stand out. I have been blowing my brains out trying to duplicate that affect. All my tries with gel, dye to oil stains come out way too dark masking the grain. There is likely a simple method to this, but being a simple guy, I can not for the world figure it out. Thus, I beg for help from the forum mavens. (Not concerned with the blotchiness) Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted May 10, 2019 Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 Are you wiping off the excess stain after applying it? Here is General Finishes gel stain, I think Antique Walnut is the color, on pine. One coat wiped on generously with a rag, then excess wiped/buffed off after 10-15min. Color stain in your pic is much darker, but similar effect. Pictures of your attempts may give some additional insight into what you could do differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted May 10, 2019 Report Share Posted May 10, 2019 Some pictures of you "failed" attempts might help us help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustijam Posted May 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2019 On the first board to the left I got the most success using Old Masters Walnut Gel, but it is too light. Also pretty good is the next which is SamaN water based stain Cognac. But the next two both Minwax their Special Walnut oil stain and their Coffee gel stain - both are horrible. I can not figure out why I can get a grain look on one then another totally obscures. I used similar procedures on all four (and I have done others) wipe on, let sit a few minutes then wipe the excess off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 11, 2019 Report Share Posted May 11, 2019 The effect you seek is sometimes called 'grain reversal'. It appears most prominently in species with large density differences in the early and late growth, such as Souther Yellow Pine. The most effective method in my experience is with liquid stains, not gel. Flood on heavily and wipe back quickly. Beware that all colors from the same mfg. may have different formulations, not just different pigments. The ratio and type of carriers and solvents influence how each color is absorbed. You might enhance the effect with carefull application of fine sandpaper once the stain dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post lewisc Posted May 11, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted May 11, 2019 Try a blowtorch. Burn it for a bit and use a card scraper or sand over the top of it if nessecary. Finish with danish oil. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustijam Posted May 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2019 Grain reversal, now it has a name. Thank you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdie Posted May 11, 2019 Report Share Posted May 11, 2019 lewisc beat me to it. I was going to suggest a light charring followed by sanding or scraping and a clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 11, 2019 Report Share Posted May 11, 2019 I agree with @lewisc and @Byrdie, the charring technique produces a very pleasing color, but be aware, it produces a non-flat, texture as well. Consider how that may impact your project's construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Woodie Posted May 14, 2019 Report Share Posted May 14, 2019 On YouTube search for Charles Neil Trace Coating. Very informative and I think it will help you achieve what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G Ragatz Posted May 17, 2019 Report Share Posted May 17, 2019 Sorry to be late to the party, but I was looking at the current issue of Wood magazine this evening, and noticed a short blurb about a product that, based on the picture that went with the blurb, seems like it might get you the look you're after. It's called Varathane Charred Wood Accelerator. Might be worth investigating. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 17, 2019 Report Share Posted May 17, 2019 I wonder if that works like ammonium chloride 'scorching'? As I recall, application of mild heat is necessary to facilitate the chemical reaction in that method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G Ragatz Posted May 17, 2019 Report Share Posted May 17, 2019 From what I've read, with the ammonium chloride method, the heat breaks the ammonium chloride down into ammonia gas and hydrochloric acid, and the acid actually burns the wood. The info I've been able to find on the Varathane product says it "reacts with the tannins in the wood" to create the scorched look - no heat required. It also seems that with the Varathane product, you can reverse (or maybe just reduce) the scorching by wiping with bleach - so it sounds like it's a different sort of chemical process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 18, 2019 Report Share Posted May 18, 2019 Interesting. If it depends on tanins to perform, it should produce a wide variation of effects in different species. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin-IT Posted May 28, 2019 Report Share Posted May 28, 2019 What was the last grit you use for sanding ? If you sand it to a very high grid you may 'close' the wood pore. https://generalfinishes.com/instructions/preparation-sanding Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newguy Posted June 15, 2019 Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Somewhat of a newby here but I could really use some advice from some of you pros. Building a small bookcase for my grandson. Purchased some better quality pine (looked it anyway). Saw article in Popular Woodworking on finishing pine with water based dye. Had never used before. Followed the instructions. Sanded to 220 g. Raised the grain and resanded. Applied water based sanding sealer. 2 coats (apply/wait /wipe off) 400 gr sand. Applied water based dye and look is horrible! Not uniform at all. Horribly splotchy. Not glue marks. Should I have skipped the sanding sealer? Is the project salvageable? Will try to add pic but I am not computer savvy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 15, 2019 Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Products labeled 'dye' are intended to penetrate the wood, more so than 'stain'. The sanding sealer might be affecting absorption in a negative way. My suggestion is to sand back to bare wood. Sand to 320, even higher on any exposed end grain. Raise grain & repeat final grit. The finer sanding will reduce absorption, giving you more control. Flood the surface evenly with dye, foam brushes or spray is usually a good method. Wipe it back (with the grain) before it starts to dry, typically after just a couple of minutes. The result will probably be lighter than your target color, but multiple coats allow better control of the final result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted June 16, 2019 Report Share Posted June 16, 2019 12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Wipe it back (with the grain) before it starts to dry, That is the answer... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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