Rocko Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Picked up some new stain shades today. Expresso (gramatically incorrect on purpose) and Tobacco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 So what are you planning to do with them? Let us know what you think of the water based vs oil based. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 9 hours ago, Ronn W said: Let us know shat... Is this more intentional grammar hijinks?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Aarrgh! Fixed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Grammar police, whoda thunk it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocko Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 17 hours ago, Ronn W said: So what are you planning to do with them? Let us know what you think of the water based vs oil based. This 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 I just want to forewarn you not to expect good results with staining construction grade lumber. The results will be blotchy and the summer growth will slurp up the stain while the winter growth will not. I don't even think dye would yield a good result. Paint would be best, or just a clear coat of some kind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Again, the best solution for this construction lumber table is "paint". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocko Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 The wood seemed to absorb the water base quicker than the oil base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 That's a big difference, but neither result is very pretty is it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Rocko, it's your life, but I gotta agree, neither is pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocko Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 It's for my bride fellas. Thjs what she asked for. But while we're on the topic of applying stain... Maybe i don't quite understand stain like I thought. What is stains purpose? Or grade of lumber? Slabs? Etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Stain is simply for making wood a different color than it naturally is. Similar to painting it, except that it is not opaque. Some wood species tend to be "blotchy" and not take stain evenly, pine and maple are good examples of that. Some people like staining wood, some do not (most here do not). The people who don't like stain think that if you want a darker color, then you should use a species of wood that has the color you want. However, if your spouse wants a certain look, but don't have the budget for the hardwoods that would give that appearance, stains are a good option. Stain is also great for repairing antique furniture. If you have to replace part of a piece of furniture, you can use stains, dyes, glazes, and toners to make the new wood look similar to the aged wood, making the repair less noticeable. I've recommended these videos to people many times, they have really good information about how stains work and how to get the desired appearance with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocko Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 2 minutes ago, JohnG said: Stain is simply for making wood a different color than it naturally is. Similar to painting it, except that it is not opaque. Some wood species tend to be "blotchy" and not take stain evenly, pine and maple are good examples of that. Some people like staining wood, some do not (most here do not). The people who don't like stain think that if you want a darker color, then you should use a species of wood that has the color you want. However, if your spouse wants a certain look, but don't have the budget for the hardwoods that would give that appearance, stains are a good option. Stain is also great for repairing antique furniture. If you have to replace part of a piece of furniture, you can use stains, dyes, glazes, and toners to make the new wood look similar to the aged wood, making the repair less noticeable. I've recommended these videos to people many times, they have really good information about how stains work and how to get the desired appearance with them. Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted November 5, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 Rocko, I've done my share of construction lumber stuff. Definitely a different world than hardwoods, but still doable. You must understand that construction lumber, yellow pine or SPF, is usually farm raised, and grown fast. The result is softer summer growth, harder winter growth, as mentioned earlier. Some tricks I've used to achieve a smoother stain include: Sanding to higher grits, say 600 or so. This burnishes the wood fibers so that they soak up less color. More even, may need more coats. Use a sealer. A coat of thin dewaxed shellac is good for this. Different means, same end. Use chemical colorant in place of pigment stains. Soaking a ball of steel wool for a day or two in a quart of vinegar produces iron acetate. Applying this to raw wood will react with tannins in the wood and darken it. Tone and shade vary with how much tannin is already present. On white pine, I have successfully produced a color similar to the left end of the sample board you pictured. YMMV. Tinted clear coats. Perhaps the best way to get a good, even finish, but has a learning curve. And finally, paint. If your wife likes rustic and colors, check into "Milk Paint". It goes on thin, penetrates the surface a bit, and can be top coated with a clear polyurathane or shellac. Having said all that, one of my best pieces is made mostly of white pine shelving boards, painted, with a walnut top. Setting the piece off with a pretty stick of hardwood works well with painted bases. Re: slabs. My advice is don't go there. All the rage right now, but buying thick slices of tree trunk can get expensive quickly, and they are usually not well dried. Warped, cracked furniture often results. Example- I built a heavy oak table for a friend. Needed slabs for thickness, and paid almost 5 times what the same volume of standard dimension lumber would cost. Plus, the table top cupped badly after 6 months of HVAC, I had to rip it into three parts and re-square the edges to make it flat again. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 You can also use dyes like "Trans tint". The tend to color the wood more evenly than stain. That is to say that there will be less differene between the the different grains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 @Rocko, after looking at your table again, and considering the colors you experimented with, I would do this, were I in your shoes: Use the 'Tobacco' stain on the framework of the base. Maybe 2 coats, get it really dark. Then apply natural color Danish Oil to the top and to the lower shelf. Plane, scrape, and/or sand the top and shelf to 220 grit first, then use 400 grit wet or dry paper to work in the Danish oil while it is wet (apply it heavily). Follow after 15 - 20 minutes with a clean cotton rag and wipe away the excess. Repeat every 8 hours or so to get a buttery smooth, wheat straw gold finish. Then coat the whole thing with 2 or 3 coats of satin polyurathane for durability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocko Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 7 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: @Rocko, after looking at your table again, and considering the colors you experimented with, I would do this, were I in your shoes: Use the 'Tobacco' stain on the framework of the base. Maybe 2 coats, get it really dark. Then apply natural color Danish Oil to the top and to the lower shelf. Plane, scrape, and/or sand the top and shelf to 220 grit first, then use 400 grit wet or dry paper to work in the Danish oil while it is wet (apply it heavily). Follow after 15 - 20 minutes with a clean cotton rag and wipe away the excess. Repeat every 8 hours or so to get a buttery smooth, wheat straw gold finish. Then coat the whole thing with 2 or 3 coats of satin polyurathane for durability May try this on future projects. However, I started finishing yesterday. End result coming soon! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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