Router Table and Router Table Fence

[derekcohen]

Here's the router table and router table fence I have been building. There is a little more work to do on the micro-adjuster, which is coming from AliExpress, as well as the dust extractor for the (2 1/4 hp) Elu 177e router I use. But for now, the rest is done. 

This is a very full-on set up. What is relevant is that it did not cost much (don't include the cost of the JessEm guides, which are excellent but a little luxury). It is difficult to total, as some parts, such as the aluminium insert plate, was purchased about 3 years ago, as was the Router Raizer lift, and the MuscleChuck router bit change. 

The base for the router table was a laminated high pressure MDF kitchen bench off cut from a kitchen maker ...

This was build into the outfeed of my Hammer K3 sliding table saw ...

These aluminium plates are excellent. After 3 years of hanging the heavy Elu, there is no signs of any dips. The surface remains flat, flat.

The Elu below, minus handles, with Router Raizer attached ...

Above the plate, the MuscleChuck allows for changing bits and easy bit-holding. I built a handle for the Router Raizer from a cut-down socket wrench. This enable fast spinning as well as fine adjustments with the fence close by.

The heart of the fence is made for 8020 extruded aluminium (80mm high and 20mm wide). I comes in 1m lengths, and this fence is 600mm long.

Note that the slots of this extrusion use different T-bits ...

The only other part I bought in were the sub-fences, since these are phenolic-coated, and the dust port. 

The subfences. Also note that the dust collection port in the mainfence was made with a 2 1/4" hole saw ...

The Jessem guides, and the bit guard I made ...

Made in two sections and superglued together ...

The rear of the fence, with the dust port, and sub-fence adjusters ...

The reason for bolting on the dust port was not simply to make it possible to remove, but this enabled the T-track to be plugged ...

The (very stiff) UHMW fence bracket is temporary ...

and will be replaced by these brackets with fine-adjuster (only needed on one side) ...

There is adjustment built into the brackets to ensure that the working side of the fence is square to the table ...

I hope that this provides some ideas for your build.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[drzaius]

Thanks Derek, this does give me some good fence ideas. I made my table top out of 3 layers of 18 mm Baltic birch glued together & faced top & bottom with plastic laminate. I have an Excalibur lift & built a cabinet below for dust collection some storage drawers. It's all very good, but I have just a basic, crude fence that needs improving, so this thread is nice.

[drzaius]

Can you tell more about the micro adjust? What brand is it? Is the mechanism zero lash?

Thanks,

[derekcohen]

55 minutes ago, drzaius said:

Can you tell more about the micro adjust? What brand is it? Is the mechanism zero lash?

Thanks,

I have no idea about the backlash. Will know more when it arrives from Alibaba. This style suits the fence I have.

Note that only one side needs the micro adjust.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mick S]

BEAUTIFUL job Derek! Love everything about this. Those Elu routers are very nice. Nice touches throughout.

I have the SCM Minimax SC 4E slider on order (December delivery) and plan to mount my SawStop router table in the same manner - in the notch between the outfeed and right side support table. It's like it was made for it. 

[pkinneb]

21 hours ago, Mick S said:

I have the SCM Minimax SC 4E slider on order (December delivery) and plan to mount my SawStop router table in the same manner - in the notch between the outfeed and right side support table. It's like it was made for it. 

Nice!! I look forward to seeing how you like it.

[Mick S]

Me too! It will probably take me until December to get my shop ready for it. I had originally planned to go with a Hammer K3 and keep the Sawstop to put back to back so I could dado on the SS. I laid it out in CAD about 38 different ways, similar to how Ramon Valdez has his set up, but it just wouldn't work. Not enough space. After looking into the K3 a little more I opted to go with the SCM for a number of reasons which I'll go into in another post after I get it.

Also ordered a Hammer HS950 oscillating edge sander that should be here in November.

[Mark J]

How do you feel about giving up the flesh sensing feature?

[Immortan D]

Each and every time I read "Hammer K3" this one comes to my mind:

 

[Mick S]

21 hours ago, Mark J said:

How do you feel about giving up the flesh sensing feature?

No doubt I'll miss the security of knowing it's there. I've been a hard sell convert to sliding table saws, due mainly to my limited use of them. I viewed them mainly as panel saws. Darrell Peart installed a K3 several months ago and loves using it. Same for Ramon Valdez and others I contacted before deciding to make the jump. The more I studied up on them, the more it became obvious that they are safer by design than a cabinet saw. Sam Blasco of Minimax, Ramon Valdez, Derek Cohen and others have several very good videos of how to set up and use various jigs for taking advantage of the sliding carriage that keep your hands entirely away from the blade. I don't use much plywood other than Baltic birch for jigs and fixtures, but I do find myself cutting a good bit of heavier, larger slabs and lumber where the slider would be an advantage, particularly straight line ripping. 

Like I said, once I get it in and have used it a while I'll share my thoughts - what I like about them and what I miss about the SS.

[Mark J]

I assume you considered the idea of adding an accessory slider to your SS.

[Mick S]

12 minutes ago, Mark J said:

I assume you considered the idea of adding an accessory slider to your SS.

Not for long. It's the proximity of the carriage to the blade that's the big advantage of the European sliders. The sliding table added to the SS is still 10 - 12" away from the blade even if you remove the left side extension wing. One of the big advantages for me of the slider is straight line ripping ON the carriage. Can't do that with an add-on. 

[curlyoak]

Hi Mick, I have a 10"delta. Do you know of any add on sliders that are worth the time and money? The distance from the blade is fine for me.

Thanks

[Mick S]

6 hours ago, curlyoak said:

Hi Mick, I have a 10"delta. Do you know of any add on sliders that are worth the time and money? The distance from the blade is fine for me.

Thanks

The only one I've looked at closely is the smaller of the two that Sawstop offers.* It's had mixed reviews, but I think that most of the downside comments applied to the early versions that did not have positive stops for 90, 45, etc. The current versions do and the reviews seem to be more positive. 

Not much help, but that's about all I know about them.

 

*Not true - we have a big 50" crosscut Excalibur on one of the SawStops at school. Nobody uses it because it won't hold a setting. Keep in mind though that it's in a school shop. 

[Just Bob]

8 hours ago, curlyoak said:

Hi Mick, I have a 10"delta. Do you know of any add on sliders that are worth the time and money? The distance from the blade is fine for me.

Thanks

I have the Grizzly slider on my saw.  Except for the fence, it is identical to the SS.  I use it for panels and ply and really like it.  As @Mick S said it does not have positive stops, but they are not necessary and in my opinion would not work any way.  The majority of time the fence is removed from the saw and the fence has to be squared to the blade every time it is attached.  I made a 25"x25" square that I use when I install the fence.  It takes about 1 minute to square the fence to the table saw fence and it is ready to cut.  The unit is not saw specific,  I had to drill the to attach the table and cut my front rail, to get it to fit.  My front rail had to be cut because of my shop size, so it just depends on the amount of space you have to the right of the saw.