Simple mirror frame


wtnhighlander
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Ross, the last dowels I made, I cut the stock to 1/4” square and on my router table, used a 1/8” round over bit on all 4 edges. I left the ends square to give me a shoulder to rest the stock on. Then, after cutting off the square ends, I chucked it into my drill press and gently used a piece of sandpaper to smooth it down. 

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On 10/30/2021 at 9:00 PM, Coop said:

Now I feel victimized! I thought I had the exclusive square that @RichardA made! :D

After having to replace my 735, all but my block planes have been put aside to justify the cost. More power to you sir! Looking forward to the build! 

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Oops, you guys wern't supposed to meet.

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16 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I found that brad-point bits can still wander a bit in this end grain situation

I agree brad points can wander, even on side grain.  I have also found them to be difficult to position with very high precision (+/- 1/32").  The points aren't true cones, and I think they are not always truly concentric with the bit.  When I need the hole "just so", I use a 'drill point countersink' bit to start, but I only need one side for what I do.

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@gee-dub, thanks! I have several bf of this white oak left from the last project, and wife wants a stain. Oak is always good for that.

@Mark J, I even tried the "start in reverse" trick to score the hole without grabbing, but still had wander. I guess those metal dowel drilling guides exist for good reason.

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Continuing on....

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These stylized butterflies should keep the corners together nicely!

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All together, ready for sanding. I had planned to cut a bead around the outside, but we decided the clean look was better, so this is it.

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A little feature to assist with hanging: marked centerlines on the back, all 4 sides. Branded and dated, too.

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And the last step for today, application of "weathered gray" stain. This will be followed by some Satin High-Performance. In-situ shot will be posted once it is hung.

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Just now catching up on this. I questioned in my mind why you did a couple of things and now I question why I would have done it differently. I particularly like the bevel on the front, the tabs holding the mirror in place, the butterflies and the finish. Very well done! 

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On 11/14/2021 at 12:01 PM, Jonathan McCully said:

I've often wondered how you put a bevel on a frame like that. Do you just run a portion of the length of the board over the TS with an angled blade? I didn't see you show any pictures of that, other than showing your blade set up with the bevel gauge.

Johnathan, to be clear, I cut that bevel AFTER cutting the mitered corners, the rabbet for the glass, and the hanging groove. Cut all the details you can while the boards are fully squared up, so you can use either face or either edge for reference in a pinch. Of course, referencing the same face or edge every time leads to the greatest accuracy.

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4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

 I might have to borrow that hanging method.

Have at it! I think if it was a lighter frame, a groove with a keyhole slot in the outer edge, hung on pan-head screws, might be more secure. These screw heads aren't very big, so a little bump from below could dislodge the bevel, if it weren't so heavy.

 

... and happy upcoming anniversary! ;)

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