Popular Post Mark J Posted March 4, 2022 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 4, 2022 34 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: using various slim objects as 'feeler' gauges, I could skeak up on the right spot. Take that, Swiss Army Knife. You're putting the "utility" into utility knife. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 5, 2022 Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 That’s looking sweet! Is the ts blade a Diablo? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 Ken, the saw blade is a Spyder Tarantula from Lowes. Really meant for trim carpentry, I think, but works great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chestnut Posted March 5, 2022 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 Ross this knife displace case is turning out awesome. I really like the system you found to hold the knives I think it's the best option of the ideas presented. Coop you'd better watch out Mark is on point with his jokes he might unseat you as forum witty comedian. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 5, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 5, 2022 Here is the first prototype "finger" for holding the knives. Nice "hand made" look, but takes way too long. Two simple changes speeds the process remarkably. This version has the blade slots cut directly into to top surface, and the sliming cut is all to one side. Much faster. Using my new prototype, I matched the blate slots on another blank, then used it and a marking gauge to quickly mark the rest. Then I cut the slots in 60 more fingers... 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 6, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 6, 2022 Final shaping of the fingers happens at my oscillating belt / spindle sander. The changes I made to the shape give me good reference surfaces for this operation. All the fingers are finally shaped. One last thing. I need a way to insert or remove the fingers from the slats after they are in the box. I decided to notch the ends of the slats to make an entry point at each side. Do it works like this: And another mock-up to test the fit. Sorry, that image is sideways. Anyway, some fingers are snug, some are a bit loose. I'll wait until final sanding to make adjustments. Meanwhile, I also did some "carving" to level out the corners of the door molding. The miters were tight, but some not so level. Looking better now. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 6, 2022 Report Share Posted March 6, 2022 Looks great! That's alot of sanding little parts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 13, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 I separated the door frame from the carcase, leaving a tiny strip to finish with my trusty flush-trim saw. There was a lttle strip of waste left, but a chisel and block plane took care of that. I started to mortise the hinge, but my fingers were so numb that I kept dropping the layout tools. Maybe later, when the shop warms up a bit... 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted March 13, 2022 Report Share Posted March 13, 2022 On 3/6/2022 at 12:29 PM, pkinneb said: That's alot of sanding little parts I was thinking the same thing in regards to putting finish on all of them. Its really coming along great Ross. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 Not much to report today. In a few minutes of quiet shop time before work, I focused on cutting the stopped rabbet that serves as a mortise for the continuous hinge. A board clamped along the side provides a stable platform for my little router plane. This particular variety of maple behaves nicely with sharp blades, making for a nice interlude of peacefulness after all the preceding machine work. Not to mention that the fine maple dust from power tools makes my sinuses burn like snorting black pepper. A respirator is a must when the machines come on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 18, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 18, 2022 No idea how this happened...a whole number of slat pieces managed to fill the length of tbe case, exactly. I did find a problem, though. In my zeal to keep the door gap tight, I sank the hinge mortise a bit too deep. Now the 2" of door frame that extends beyond each end of the piano hinge has interference at the corners. Question for the collective: would you try to shim the bottom of the mortise, or shift the hinge so that the barrel extends a bit pst the side of the box? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 18, 2022 Report Share Posted March 18, 2022 11 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Question for the collective: would you try to shim the bottom of the mortise, or shift the hinge so that the barrel extends a bit pst the side of the box? I'm not following a picture would help. If it's shifting screw holes vs shimming, I'd go with shimming though. Shifting screw holes never seems to work for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 18, 2022 Report Share Posted March 18, 2022 On 3/17/2022 at 7:14 PM, wtnhighlander said: Question for the collective: would you try to shim the bottom of the mortise, or shift the hinge so that the barrel extends a bit pst the side of the box? If you're asking would I mortise for the barrel or shift the hinge left or right? I think I would shift the hinge but if I was in doubt I would cut them into a scrap piece and see which suited my eye better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 18, 2022 Report Share Posted March 18, 2022 Would rounding the corners of the door frame be an option? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2022 In response: @Chestnut, sorry I didn't get a pic. I think shifting the screw holes is probably the best choice for moving the hinge. I think the barrel is just a hair too far in. @pkinneb, I think you are right, and a test run on scrap would have been the right move. @Mark J, That idea occurred to me, and might work well, but I'm worried it might look worse than a gap. Thanks for the suggestions, all. I'll make a decision and give it a whirl tomorrow, I hope. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 20, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 20, 2022 Filled the hinge screw holes with bits of bamboo skewer. Sawdust and glue hides the sinfully gappy back side of the frame miters. The hinge works well now, after shifting the barrel about 1/32" outward. I tried to get the center of the barrel right on the edge. Meanwhile, the slats are sanded and glued to their backer board. The door frame developed a but of twist, a hazard of using inadequately dried lumber. I decided to add a rim to the interior of the frame, to force it into alignment when the door is closed. I ripped these strips for that purpose, from a perfectly flat board. They turned into noodles, right off the saw. Regardless, there were enough straight sections to do the job, but I'm taking no chances with the glue-up... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted March 20, 2022 Report Share Posted March 20, 2022 Mmmmm wood noodles !! All of us have had them, nice fix on the door looks great 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted March 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2022 Adding the rim around the door frame really pulls it into alignment. The backer I used for the slats was a piece of hardboard with chalkboard paint on the side I glued the slats to. Not trusting the bond to be perfect, I chise to add screws from the back. Using a drafting T-square, I laid out for a screw at each end of every slat. This side of the backer has a 'white board' coating. This stuff was cheaper than plain 1/4" hardboard when I needed template material for some previous project, and this sheet was left. Naturally, I managed to twist one of the #6 brass screws in half before I remembered to wax the threads. No worries, its just the back. I'll sink another next to it and move on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 22, 2022 Report Share Posted March 22, 2022 On 3/21/2022 at 6:53 PM, wtnhighlander said: Naturally, I managed to twist one of the #6 brass screws in half before I remembered to wax the threads. Then I will refrain from saying anything about them not being clocked. Looking good bud!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 26, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 First order of the day was to dip the pegs in sanding sealer. Here is a forest of them, dripping dry. One last detail before sanding, Cody decided on just a finger groove, rather than a door pull. Trim router, cove pit, stop blocks, and .. Tada! Can't get much cleaner than that. What followed was a lot of tedium, sanding, sanding, sanding. I did manage to apply some finish to the un-colored slat wall, and some of my favorite stain to the maple case. A blend of Minwax Natural and Provintial, 50/50. I think it gives the light maple just the right amount of warmth. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted March 30, 2022 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 Test drive.... Still need to apply wax, install door catches, and cut the (plexi)glass window. Now I want it for tool display. The DT cleat & peg system works OK, although the peg dovetails could use a touch more uniformity. One disappointment is that the non-hinged side of the case has bowed outward, just enough to ruin the "flush fit" appearance I was hoping for. Hazards of randomly dried lumber. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted March 30, 2022 Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 Your pic after dipping into sanding sealer looks like a bunch of Putin’s soldiers. The last pic looks darn good!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted March 30, 2022 Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 Looks great Ross, I bet Cory can’t wait to load it up, it’s been a great ride 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted March 30, 2022 Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 Came out great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted March 30, 2022 Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 Very nice!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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