Knife Display Case


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On 3/6/2022 at 12:29 PM, pkinneb said:

That's alot of sanding little parts

I was thinking the same thing in regards to putting finish on all of them.

Its really coming along great Ross.

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Not much to report today. In a few minutes of quiet shop time before work, I focused on cutting the stopped rabbet that serves as a mortise for the continuous hinge.

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A board clamped along the side provides a stable platform for my little router plane. This particular variety of maple behaves nicely with sharp blades, making for a nice interlude of peacefulness after all the preceding machine work.

Not to mention that the fine maple dust from power tools makes my sinuses burn like snorting black pepper. A respirator is a must when the machines come on.

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11 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Question for the collective: would you try to shim the bottom of the mortise, or shift the hinge so that the barrel extends a bit pst the side of the box?

I'm not following a picture would help. If it's shifting screw holes vs shimming, I'd go with shimming though. Shifting screw holes never seems to work for me.

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On 3/17/2022 at 7:14 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Question for the collective: would you try to shim the bottom of the mortise, or shift the hinge so that the barrel extends a bit pst the side of the box?

If you're asking would I mortise for the barrel or shift the hinge left or right? I think I would shift the hinge but if I was in doubt I would cut them into a scrap piece and see which suited my eye better.

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In response:

@Chestnut, sorry I didn't get a pic. I think shifting the screw holes is probably the best choice for moving the hinge. I think the barrel is just a hair too far in.

@pkinneb, I think you are right, and a test run on scrap would have been the right move. 

@Mark J, That idea occurred to me, and might work well, but I'm worried it might look worse than a gap.

Thanks for the suggestions, all. I'll make a decision and give it a whirl tomorrow, I hope.

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Adding the rim around the door frame really pulls it into alignment.

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The backer I used for the slats was a piece of hardboard with chalkboard paint on the side I glued the slats to. Not trusting the bond to be perfect, I chise to add screws from the back.

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Using a drafting T-square, I laid out for a screw at each end of every slat. This side of the backer has a 'white board' coating. This stuff was cheaper than plain 1/4" hardboard when I needed template material for some previous project, and this sheet was left.

Naturally, I managed to twist one of the #6 brass screws in half before I remembered to wax the threads.

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No worries, its just the back. I'll sink another next to it and move on.

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On 3/21/2022 at 6:53 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Naturally, I managed to twist one of the #6 brass screws in half before I remembered to wax the threads.

Then I will refrain from saying anything about them not being clocked.:D

Looking good bud!!

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