Dewalt router


BillyJack
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On 11/24/2022 at 10:08 AM, Gary Beasley said:

Ive got one, I got it into the plunge base and left it there. Its a fine router though. I simply got another router motor for the router table to leave in the lift.

Was it difficult to get into the plunge base? I believe this be apart of a three piece Dewalt pack. A plunge, D-handle and regular base. The D-handle was missing. 
 

it doesn’t seem to be very user friendly while swapping. 
 

i think there should be a review on “ease of use” of plunge router bases..

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22 hours ago, BillyJack said:

Was it difficult to get into the plunge base? I believe this be apart of a three piece Dewalt pack. A plunge, D-handle and regular base. The D-handle was missing. 
 

it doesn’t seem to be very user friendly while swapping. 
 

i think there should be a review on “ease of use” of plunge router bases..

Its been a while so I couldnt tell you for sure. If I remember right you have to line up the motor with some tabs but once there it didnt fight too bad going into place.

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I'm wondering is this the right model motor assembly for this plunge base. I usually leave tge PC routers in the plunge because they hard to remove. Unless there are easy to use combos it's hard to believe they are still difficult to use and better to not buy combo kits becausd of the frustration...

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I only have the smaller 1-1/4 version, but the base mechanisms are almost identical. Should just be a matter of popping the locking clip on the base open and line up the pin (flat in your case) on the base with the matching element in the router body. The plunge base is definitely more finnicky (have to line it up perfectly straight) than the fixed base on my set.

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No issues here. I suggest trying to loosen the clamp mechanism. If someone screwed with it and then had trouble themselves, that might be why it went to pawn. Just to be clear, your picture shows it fully bottomed out. It does not go any further into the base. 

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You tells it down enough when you can get the bottom fir router bit release. 

 

These are things I didn't like.

The router shifted after start up. I actually need to tighten it up. 

When done and you turn it on its side its on the cord bending it long term this will weaken the rubber around it.

The thumb set is too small and I found I had to search for it. 

This rouyer will take awhile to get use too.

 

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Not really gripes, just pointing out the obvious things. I had a bad cord on a Milwaukee sawzall with the same connection go bad. I couldn’t figure it out. The shop tried a new cord and it worked fine. New cord plus shop service call. I learned to keep an eye on those cords or have two.:D

 

I use routers too much i guess:(

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@BillyJack,

Never saw this router before today, working at the highschool wood shop, but I have the answer.  There is a flat spot on the motor housing where the speed control dial is located.  This flat spot MUST be positioned next to the plunge spring or there will not be enough clearance for the motor.  If you attempt to install the motor in any other position it will go in crooked and may become jammed (as in I just spent 3 class periods getting one unstuck).  A truly stupid design.  

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I bought a Bosch combo kit last year. Model 1617EVSPK. It is a medium power machine, but the fit, finish, and operation are as smooth and clean as anything I've ever used. I do NOT like some of the Bosch baseplates & accessories, though. Had to buy a plate from Rockler so I could use my collection of PC style guide bushings.

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On 11/28/2022 at 5:26 PM, wtnhighlander said:

I bought a Bosch combo kit last year. Model 1617EVSPK. It is a medium power machine, but the fit, finish, and operation are as smooth and clean as anything I've ever used. I do NOT like some of the Bosch baseplates & accessories, though. Had to buy a plate from Rockler so I could use my collection of PC style guide bushings.

+1

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1 hour ago, RichardA said:

Get some 1/4" acrylic and make your own base plates. I've a few for a couple of my routers.  You can even go up to 3/8" for those plates.

I'll make some accessory plates, but wasn't confident I could bore the shouldered center hole correctly for the guide bushings, so opted to purchase that one.

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10 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I'll make some accessory plates, but wasn't confident I could bore the shouldered center hole correctly for the guide bushings, so opted to purchase that one.

Wait what!? Mr. Thingamajig has doubts over his abilities. I'd say there are many things you have made that were more complicated. :P

I jest, i get not wanting to mess with something that could lead to massive frustration down the road. :D

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While a member of Woodnet early 2000. Members like Steve Gass, Part Warner "The Router Man", Charles from Freud,Bowclamp,  etc were all daily participants on Woodnet. I reached out to Pat Warner with a Omnijig problem and it was determined the plates made by Bish were within tolerances for Bosch and may or may not be perfectly centered,

For less than $20, Pat sent me a new clear plate, drilled for a Bosch 1604 with a center hole cut for PC router templates. I have a lot of respect for Pat Warner and those guys back from the day

Okay so I'm a woodworking HOBO.

Bottom line ... if you chose to make your own , by all means do so. I myself would rather buy from a reputable person or company. 

While making dovetails on the Omnijig I noticed they would tighten or loosen. A slight turning would create this difference. After the new plate, no more problems. I use this router only for dovetails. It sits till needed..

A lot of cruel woodworkers  out there now…

 

bsae plate problems.jpg

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10 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Wait what!? Mr. Thingamajig has doubts over his abilities. I'd say there are many things you have made that were more complicated. :P

I jest, i get not wanting to mess with something that could lead to massive frustration down the road. :D

Well, being honest, I was mostly scared of breaking the rather pricey acrylic material I had, while making the hole. My inner cheapskate won out on that one!  :lol:

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