Rust removel

[Mqutkingdom]

What products work best on removing rust from old tools that range from20-50 years old

[Dan S]

For anything small enough to be fully submersed, Evapo-Rust is the way to go. You can pick it up for $20 a gallon at harbor freight, and it's non toxic. For large stuff, Naval jelly is probably your best bet.

What products work best on removing rust from old tools that range from20-50 years old

[samhell]

Electrolysis!

[jmk89]

My preference is citric acid, next electrolysis

[muddlermike]

Evaporust... easiest and safest method.

[jwatson]

Electrolysis!

electrolysis is dangerous! I never offer it as a solution because of this. why try this method when there are so many other safer methods.

first try evaporust its nontoxic and works quite well. you can get it at autozone if you don't have access to the harbor freight in your area. look in the automotive body repair. if you have a smallish plane like under a jack plane in size you can accomplish this by double dipping. dipping one half then later flipping over and doing the other half.

second if its just light surface rust you can use a brass wire wheel on a grinder to remove it, wear eye protection with this one. trust me you are looking to lose an eye if you don't. also wear gloves you will suffer less while wearing them.

I have refurbished several planes with both methods.

[PurpLev]

+1 to evaporust - non toxic, and safe for everyone

[uncwalley]

For an even cheaper method, you can try molasses. Mix 1:4 with water and drop your rusty tools in for a week. It is slow, but it's cheap and works, and you can't beat food products for safety. I still wear gloves, though, cause who wants rusty molasses all over your hands.

[alindsey]

For an even cheaper method, you can try molasses. Mix 1:4 with water and drop your rusty tools in for a week. It is slow, but it's cheap and works, and you can't beat food products for safety. I still wear gloves, though, cause who wants rusty molasses all over your hands.

Would you say it was... slow as molasses?

I've used Evaporust with good results. On handplanes I do most of my rust removal with WD-40, 00 & 000 Norton abrasive pads and a healthy dose of elbow grease.

The important thing I've found, no matter the tool, is once you do whatever you're doing to remove the rust apply something to protect the freshly exposed metal. If it's a hand tool/plane, jojoba or camellia oil work very well. On a power tool surface I'm a big fan of Boeshield's T-9 product, but good old paste wax will work as well. More than once I've put in a good amount of work re-habbing a handplane, forgotten to oil it afterwards and come out the next morning to a fine coating of fresh rust.

[elimelech12]

Try this: Boeshield Rust Free

Make sure not to leave it on cast iron though because it will spot!

[PMR]

The Boeshield rust remover works good but make sure to use it in a well ventilated area cause it irritates the eyes and nose. Pat

[elimelech12]

^^^^ Yup...definitely need a ventilated area...i think it contains phosphoric acid

LQQK: corrected...thanx

[samhell]

Try this: Boeshield Rust Free

Make sure not to leave it on cast iron though because it will spot!

Yeah you really have to watch it. It will turn your metal black if you leave it on too long.

[minorhero]

Depends on the size of tool and the type of surface.

If we are talking about something small like a pair of pliers then yea Evaparust is the way to go.

If we are talking about something large with a machine surface like the cast iron wing of a table saw then electrolysis is the way to go. More abrasive techniques (like low grit sanding) increase the chance of making waves in your machined surface.

If we are talking abouta large piece of cast iron that does not have a machined surface (or at least not one you need to worry about) then WD-40 and a wirewheel on an angle grinder is the fastest way to remove rust.

As for electrolysis being dangerous, well I wouldn't let a 10 year old do it, but so long as you use basic common sense it is not dangerous. Take a look at how much gas is actually being released by a spooge tank and its pretty clear that a car produces more deadly gases in a couple of seconds of being turned on then a spooge tank does after hours of running. Doesn't stop people from storing car's in garages though.

[PaulMarcel]

Doesn't stop people from storing car's in garages though.

Not a lot of that going on with woodworkers, though

[nateswoodworks]

Depends on what you are doing and gentle you want to be to the original surface, First Evaporust Second electrolysis Third is wire brush/flap sander on the drill press. I have done electrolysis several times with great results and as it has been said the actual amount of gas it puts off is almost nothing plus it makes a great science experiment for the kids-restoring old tools plus teaching my kids at the same time is a win win!!

Nate

[LordLQQK]

^^^^ Yup...definitely need a ventilated area...i think it contains sulfuric acid

Sorry to be the stickler but the Boeshield Rust Remover uses phosphoric acid to remove rust. Still, yes, well ventilated area.

LQQK

[Lawrence Brown]

So when you guys say "electrolysis", what exactly are you talking about? I've done electroplating and electro-etching as a form of engraving. I'm assuming this is similar?

[LordLQQK]

So when you guys say "electrolysis", what exactly are you talking about? I've done electroplating and electro-etching as a form of engraving. I'm assuming this is similar?

Basically it is putting a plane sole, or other rusted metal piece, into a solution of washing soda and water with an expendable piece of iron. The current attracts iron molecules from the expendable iron bar which "replaces" rust on the plane piece.

LQQK (one positively charged ion)

[elimelech12]

Sorry to be the stickler but the Boeshield Rust Remover uses phosphoric acid to remove rust. Still, yes, well ventilated area.

LQQK

opps...thats what I meant...i'll edit!

[Autorotate]

I've never done the "electrolysis" thing but from what I've read about it, it sounds pretty easy and works. Ron Hock shows how to do it in his book "The Perfect Edge" Which is a great book by the way. It's on page 40 if you just want to see it at the book store.

[muddlermike]

here. this is electrolysis: https://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/planes101/electrolysis/electrolysis.htm

do it with caution and in a well ventilated area protected from children and pets. you're still working with electrical current, in water, that is producing hydrogen gas and oxygen gas separately - not carbon monoxide like a car does. I wouldn't smoke near it, grill near it, or do it near a gas furnace that has a pilot light. Most guys have everything but the washing soda around - naturally, I didn't so the outlay initially was about $60 or so. It will turn the iron black and can be pretty sloppy to clean up afterward, and depending on your battery charger and size of the tool you're cleaning can take a couple of days to work.

Navel jelly and other chemicals are pretty toxic and irritating to the skin, eyes, and nose. I've also heard some fans of citric acid but it also comes with a few risks and seems a little involved to do. The molasses thing sounds interesting, but I imagine the clean up afterward would get a little sticky personally, I can't see any other option that is safer, cleaner, or easier than evaporust for any tool, but I said that already...

[PaulDerrico]

Here's another link that shows the process on you tube.

=paul

[minorhero]

Here's another link that shows the process on you tube.

=paul

The fellow in that video is using stainless steel and even says stainless steel is good to use.

That is pretty much the exact opposite from what I was always taught. Essentially electrolysis does produce nasty stuff it just doesn't do it in very large quantities. Stainless steel produces even more nasty stuff then regular electrolysis and thus should be avoided.

[PaulDerrico]

The fellow in that video is using stainless steel and even says stainless steel is good to use.

That is pretty much the exact opposite from what I was always taught. Essentially electrolysis does produce nasty stuff it just doesn't do it in very large quantities. Stainless steel produces even more nasty stuff then regular electrolysis and thus should be avoided.

Yeah, you're absolutely right. I didn't pay much attention to that in the video. I should have been more cognizant, sorry. You DEFINITELY want to stay away from electrolysis and stainless steel. Here's a quote from a link regarding the use of SS, specifically chromium:

"The main problem with using it is the hazardous waste it produces. Stainless steel contains chromium. The electrodes, and thus the chromium is consumed, and you end up with poisonous chromates in your electrolyte. Dumping these on the ground or down the drain is illegal. The compounds can cause severe skin problems and ultimately, cancer. Hexavalent chromate is poisonous. These compounds are not excused from hazardous waste regulations where household wastes are."

DO NOT USE ELECTROLYSIS ON STAINLESS STEEL!!!!! My apologies again.

=paul