Large Wall Mirror

[Chet]

On 4/9/2026 at 9:34 AM, fcschoenthal said:

Mine are plastic. I just use a sharpie to mark the segment. It doesn't rub of too easily

Ditto

On 4/4/2026 at 9:46 AM, gee-dub said:

While selecting material I came across this bit of figure. I couldn't resist placing it at the center of the top rail of the mirror frame.

This is one of my favorite tasks in a project, finding grain patterns that work with the shape of the piece.

[gee-dub]

Sorry for the large posting gap. We had out of state visitors over the weekend and I was playing host. At any rate this post will diverge a little bit. Just wanted to mention that if you rub a little baby powder on your spindle drums when you change paper the sleeves come off a lot easier later on.

I use a shave to fair the curve on the lower rail of the mirror frame.



I will be using some ebony inserts as decorative elements to echo the sideboard backsplash. I've got a reasonable amount of ebony but hate to waste it with a wide saw blade kerf. I will mount a Woodslicer on one of the bandsaws.

When I designed the shop I put in easy to reach disconnects for the machines.

Please always disconnect your machines when your hands will be near the meat-eaters.

I pull the under table shroud which is held in place by magnets.

I have used the flutter method to setup bandsaw blades for so long I don't remember ever doing it any other way. I do this for the Woodslicer.

I was curious so I timed myself. Without hurrying I was back in operation in about 20 minutes. This did include lubing the bearings and cleaning the table.

I have a small set of tools for this task. Unforeseen benefit . . . The ball-end hex driver also fits my 10" Rikon. The wrench is for pulling the table pin as it is a hex head instead of a lever type like many use.

End result.

I love the narrow kerf the Woodslicer provides. It is the main reason I have a couple on hand. Exotics are expensive and there is no need to use them up with wide kerf blades.

[gee-dub]

Surface prep some ebony blanks.

Play with the spacing . . . they are not to length yet.

Setup blocks help with visualizing things.

I will need to route recesses so the ebony is inlaid about 1/16". It will be proud about 1/8". The shop made depth gauge helps me quickly set height and position.

When the depth exceeds the gauge I just add known sized offsets.

I go ahead and setup the long fence rails even though this is just a test in a piece of poplar. That way when I do the real deal I won't have to reset everything.

After the first cut I use setup blocks (again) to reposition things quickly and repeatedly.

I am happy with this I will cut this same pattern into the hanger rail for the frame.

[Chet]

On 4/13/2026 at 10:56 AM, gee-dub said:

Sorry for the large posting gap. We had out of state visitors over the weekend and I was playing host.

If I am not mistaking you are a retired individual now and therefore do not have to explain your time use to anyone ever again... except probably your wife.

[gee-dub]

Sorry for the spoon-feeding. Getting ready for a birthday bash tomorrow. I do my usual rig for stopped grooves on long parts.

First groove done. I use a 3/4" setup block to move the fence back and the stops in.

Rinse and repeat and you end up here.

I will cut the inserts to length and shape to fit.

[gee-dub]

Still spoon feeding on this but as I have said in the past, reporting here helps keep me moving forward. This inexpensive little drafting template is very handy if you do any kind of Greene and Greene stuff.

I draw the radius I am after.

I love a vertical sander for this sort of work. It really gives you a feel of control while you are tuning the delicate blank.

There's one end and the blank gets cut to length.

And there's the other end.

Two more to go and I haven't even had breakfast yet

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

Those will look so nice!!

[gee-dub]

So here's the other two in rough form.

Another wandering stream of consciousness thing about Shop Vac hook-ups. I picked up these Rockler vac hose mounts during a clearance sale. They have proven to be very handy and I am sure you could make a shop-made version without much effort..

They allow me to move the hose from my wall mounted Shop Vac from machine to machine with ease. I have them on my disc, spindle, and vertical belt sanders.

As well as my small bandsaw.

And the drill press.

But . . . I digress . . .

These are not glued down. Simply setting in place but I like the look. I find hand preparing these types of things lends a more organic look and feel. There are other times when I prefer a machine to provide a consistent purposeful look. It all depends on what you are doing and what the look is that you are after.

[pkinneb]

Project looks awesome as always!

That's a pretty sweet vacuum set up!

[gee-dub]

Thanks.  The vac is handy but one standing on the floor can be just as helpful.  The Dust Deputy really kicks things up a notch.  Here's how that thing works . . . 

 

[Von]

Clever design. Thanks for sharing.

[gee-dub]

I've mentioned how this mirror hangs differently than a picture. The mirror mounts to the wall and the frame just sort of clips to it for visual effect. This involves a sub-frame to allow room for the french cleats. The mirror and backer also have some integral clips riveted in back when the mirror was made. I clamp the sub-frame parts in place to make myself comfortable with the fit.

That's a little more extra room than I was after.

Yeah, 1/4" where I was really wanting 1/8". What's that old saying? "Measure twice . . . ".

Resolved the sizing issue and used Dominoes for the corners of the long, thin, sub-frame rails and stiles. This large frame is proving to be a space challenge as I have other things going on in the shop right now. Doing a staged glue up actually works out for me today as I have a lot of clean up work to do in the back yard. I can glue and clamp a sub-assembly, go work in the yard, come back and take the next step and go back out in the yard. The joys of retirement and building for yourself; no schedule.

I developed the habit long ago of gluing up frames in a pair of "L's". This is an extra step from just gluing up the whole frame at once but I find I get better results this way. This lets me assure the corners are square and that the surfaces are in plane. I use the same method on picture frames, boxes, almost any square or rectangular assembly. We all find our own ways that lead to success. I set a timer for about 30 minutes and then will connect the two "L's" and move along.

[wtnhighlander]

@gee-dub, does 30 minutes of dry time leave the first corner's glue soft enough to fine-tune the squareness when joining the final corners? I usually have more luck achieving square when I can compare corner to corner measurements, than by using a reference square aganst the 'L'. I like the idea of making the frame in two stages, though.

[gee-dub]

@wtnhighlander - In my area, at about 30 minutes there is no adjusting anything although at this dimension and length there is some spring.  The parts are safe to handle carefully though and could be pulled apart if required.  I do use clamping squares or whatever you want to call them.

I also have little squares of MDF or tempered hardboard wrapped in packing tape.  These are used to press the corner flat at the glue line, to the reference surface I am using for glue up.  I put a bit of wax paper between the material and the surface.  The clamping squares assure things are at 90 degrees and the little blocks and associated clamps assure the surfaces are in plane.

y

Helps to give you those nice air-tight corners whether mitered or not.

 

[Immortan D]

On 4/19/2026 at 12:41 PM, gee-dub said:

This involves a sub-frame to allow room for the french cleats

I used a similar approach for a large mirror I made 10 years ago. It may be a bit over-engineered, but it’s time-tested.

Here's the journal: 

 

[gee-dub]

The side stiles on the frame are tapered. Normally I just clamp material to the MatchFit sled for odd angled cuts at the tablesaw. The length on these exceeded my sled so out comes the L-Fence.

I have an old chop saw fence extension in the racks. I checked it for accuracy and it gets to do the job. You lay out your line (or in my case the end points) of the angled cut. Double stick tape the "guide" to the blank.

The guide rides the L-Fence, the material passes under the L-Fence letting you make a straight cut at an angle.

And here's the result.

They are not yet cut to final length and therefor look different from each other. All this was to get the parts broken out with the figure I wanted for the stiles.

It's not there yet but I am definitely starting to see it.

[gee-dub]

These half-moon clamping blocks come in handy once again. Always good for clamping nonparallel pieces.

For whatever reason I didn't cut all the stiles at the same time. I figure it is easier to fit the narrow vertical divider by cutting is a smidge long and tuning it with the shooting board.



Here's a good view of the earthquake damage (scratch) that I am covering up with the frame design.

It gets covered like so.

I layout for the mortises.

This shop made stop block is great for non-square pieces on the Domino table.

And that's how they're supposed to go.

20 Dominoes.

Like a glove.

Time to take it apart and start my surface prep. Should be applying finish by the weekend if all goes well.

[gee-dub]

Just thought I would mention that I use a rag in a can dripped with 3-in-1 to wipe down my planes before I put them away. I have never had any rust issues but I do live in a mild climate.

The can with the rag also holds my paraffin block and sets right on the plane till.

It is always satisfying to complete a project. I think the second most satisfying stage for me is the completion of surface prep.

Time for glue-up and then on to finishing.

[gee-dub]

As is my habit I glue up sub-assemblies and then join those larger assemblies to complete the project.

This lets me make sure things are square and tight. A hand screw makes a good stabilizer for tall, wobbly assemblies.

Closer . . .

And there we go.

I will let this cure overnight and then move on.

[gee-dub]

Casting this out to the brain trust . . . .

The original frame stayed in place (including the dive off the wall during the earthquake in 1970) with just ten, 8d finishing nails surrounding the interior and levering against the mirror backer. I'm not saying that is how I would do it but obviously Somebody's Grandpa knew what he was doing. I am thinking I will use some #8 trim head screws as shown unless any of you wizards can suggest why I should or should not

Here's the frame on the elevating tables.

Here it is raised into position.

Here is the planned fastener of choice.

Opinions welcome.

[curlyoak]

Could a small domino hold it? And add a counter sunk screw on the back side to not allow any movement of the domino. No glue so you can remove it if necessary.

I have never done that but you motivated my thoughts and I will try to keep that in the hard drive of my head for future use. Unless you can find flaws...

[wtnhighlander]

I see no reason the screws won't work.

Another method I've used, which came from an old woodworking magazine, is to grind some 1" fender washers to a 'D' shape, snd screw them to the back of the frame. Spinning the flat of the D to line up with the frame edge frees the mirror, and turning the round part of the D to overhang the edge locks it in.

[Von]

I don't see any issue with the screws holding things together. It does seem tight to get to the screw heads to drive or remove them. You presumably have a good plan for that (and I am curious), but someone who follows you may not and may be tempted to do something "creative."

[Mark J]

1 hour ago, Von said:

It does seem tight to get to the screw heads to drive or remove them.

This.

[Immortan D]

Since the sub-frame can be removed, you can drive the screws first then attach it to the main frame.

Maybe you don't need the screws at all, you can just add some trim to the sub-frame.