Shooting Board - Lee Valley Version


gee-dub

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Do you find that you have to adjust it every time you change the wooden fence?  Or does it stay true?

I've currently got a fixed 90 degree shooting board and will be building a fixed 45 degree one soon as part of a class that I'm taking...

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The fences are slightly adjustable by design.  It stays put once in one position or another.  Aligning it once moved is quick and easy.  The plane body is trapped in the track so it becomes a reliable reference surface without any need to hold onto it.  I just set the plan in the track, hold a square against the sole and the fence and lock it down. The 90* fence moves about a degree each way and the 45* fence moves a couple of degrees each way..This could be designed out but, I have found a slight adjustment too useful now and again to give it up ;-)

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1 hour ago, Janello said:

I'm a little confused what's going on with the holes. Are you fishing a johnny bolt in from the bottom and threading the knob on above?

They are carriage bolts.  I drill the holes to fit and counterbore them to recess the heads.  The square shoulders wedge into the wood to prevent spin. When I am changing positions I just insert the bolt and hold it into the previously squared section of the through hole while I snug the knobs. I hold a square against the plane sole and fence an finish tightening the knobs.

Its amazing; I've rattled around this rock for decades and never new that toilet bolts were called johnny bolts.  Makes perfect sense ;-)

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My wife has successfully bought me "just what I wanted" for years.  It took her just a short while to realize that if she wanted to see the "kid with a new puppy" look on my face all she had to do was to visit one of my wish lists and pick something. 

There are some tools that are not necessary but, make shop time much more enjoyable for us hacks.  My previous shooting method worked fine but, this is much more fun.  She let my dad and her mom in on the secret of the wish lists and I can't thank her enough :)

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  • 6 months later...
On 4/9/2016 at 9:06 AM, gee-dub said:

My wife has successfully bought me "just what I wanted" for years.  It took her just a short while to realize that if she wanted to see the "kid with a new puppy" look on my face all she had to do was to visit one of my wish lists and pick something. 

There are some tools that are not necessary but, make shop time much more enjoyable for us hacks.  My previous shooting method worked fine but, this is much more fun.  She let my dad and her mom in on the secret of the wish lists and I can't thank her enough :)

I just ordered the shooting plane and am mentally working on a shooting board design. Do you feel that calibrating the fence square and to 45 each time is accurate enough for picture frames and other operations? Would there be a benefit to making a shooting board that would have fixed fences that could be honed in perfectly and permanently attached?

I don't know if I'll do the metal track I'm probably just going to do a finished and waxed wood Chanel for it. I'm going to go buy some BB ply i want this made at least somewhat right.

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On 4/9/2016 at 9:06 AM, gee-dub said:

My wife has successfully bought me "just what I wanted" for years.  It took her just a short while to realize that if she wanted to see the "kid with a new puppy" look on my face all she had to do was to visit one of my wish lists and pick something. 

I'm having a hard time getting my wife to understand this. Her goal is to buy something for me that isn't on my wishlist. I keep saying.. everything I want that is affordable is on that list. The end.

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15 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I just ordered the shooting plane and am mentally working on a shooting board design. Do you feel that calibrating the fence square and to 45 each time is accurate enough for picture frames and other operations? Would there be a benefit to making a shooting board that would have fixed fences that could be honed in perfectly and permanently attached?

I don't know if I'll do the metal track I'm probably just going to do a finished and waxed wood Chanel for it. I'm going to go buy some BB ply i want this made at least somewhat right.

My previous board has an UHMW track and worked great.  I still used a fence that could be adjusted a smidge at 90 degrees.  I then made a triangle that bolted to it for 45's.  Unfortunately (or not) this board was made for my LV LAJ and so was not really convertible to the new plane.  The track was a gift and is a luxury, not a requirement by any means.  Your board will still be 'quite right' with a wooden chute.

Shooting-Board-1.jpg

I did add a hardwood strip so that I wouldn't plane into the ply.  It is very easy to quickly square the fence with the plane as a reference surface and a 6" square.  I hold the square to the plane, loosen the fence and hold it to the square as well.  tighten the fence knob and I'm all set.

Donkey Ear (1).jpg

Here's the triangle doo-dad that attaches with a knob/bolt that threads into a threaded insert that I sunk into the triangle piece.  You can see that I added a retainer strip to help keep the plane in the chute.  I found that my little arms got tired after long sessions :rolleyes: and I lost accuracy.  The retainer takes some of the effort away from the action.

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40 minutes ago, gee-dub said:

My previous board has an UHMW track and worked great.  I still used a fence that could be adjusted a smidge at 90 degrees.  I then made a triangle that bolted to it for 45's.  Unfortunately (or not) this board was made for my LV LAJ and so was not really convertible to the new plane.  The track was a gift and is a luxury, not a requirement by any means.  Your board will still be 'quite right' with a wooden chute.

I did add a hardwood strip so that I wouldn't plane into the ply.  It is very easy to quickly square the fence with the plane as a reference surface and a 6" square.  I hold the square to the plane, loosen the fence and hold it to the square as well.  tighten the fence knob and I'm all set.

Here's the triangle doo-dad that attaches with a knob/bolt that threads into a threaded insert that I sunk into the triangle piece.  You can see that I added a retainer strip to help keep the plane in the chute.  I found that my little arms got tired after long sessions :rolleyes: and I lost accuracy.  The retainer takes some of the effort away from the action.

Sweet thanks Mr. Dub!

I'm probably going to do the adjustable like you showed on your original post just because i figure when I'm using this I'll get it set up for one task and hammer a bunch of frames/panels/what ever out before switching and re-calibrating to another task. It's good to hear that using knobs and holding things to a square works well because that will be really easy to keep some adjustment to it as well as opening doors to additional angles if need be.

The hand plane shipped today so i probably won't see it until Monday next week :( curse you Amazon for spoiling me endlessly.

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Nice board Dub. I will be finally getting around to doing my new one this week I hope. a couple questions for you,

1- Do you have a two sided miter board the the instances that you have a profiled piece and absolutely need both sides?

2- I remember you saying you had bought the 24" track. Did you end up cutting it down? Or you left it at 24"?

3- Will you make a donkey ear for it?

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6 hours ago, shaneymack said:

Nice board Dub. I will be finally getting around to doing my new one this week I hope. a couple questions for you,

1- Do you have a two sided miter board the the instances that you have a profiled piece and absolutely need both sides?

2- I remember you saying you had bought the 24" track. Did you end up cutting it down? Or you left it at 24"?

3- Will you make a donkey ear for it?

1. Although I run into this free-hand planing I have never found the need to shoot down the left side.  I did not make the new board capable as I will use the old board for that if it ever comes up. Not something I wanted to deal with for so seldom an occurrence (never so far for me).  your use will vary the importance of this.

2. I hemmed and hawed for so long I just went ahead an left it.  turns out that for the 16" LV shooting plane it is just about right.  I do not know that I would want to give up more than an inch or two and only then if I had to.

3. Yes.  The movable fence design means I can drop one right on without having to worry about attaching it to an existing fence.  that being said an existing fence can make a nice backer for an ear.

The important thing I think I learned is that one of thee can be made in a very short time and over-thinking (always my strong suit) is not required.

 

 

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1. Although I run into this free-hand planing I have never found the need to shoot down the left side.  I did not make the new board capable as I will use the old board for that if it ever comes up. Not something I wanted to deal with for so seldom an occurrence (never so far for me).  your use will vary the importance of this.

2. I hemmed and hawed for so long I just went ahead an left it.  turns out that for the 16" LV shooting plane it is just about right.  I do not know that I would want to give up more than an inch or two and only then if I had to.

3. Yes.  The movable fence design means I can drop one right on without having to worry about attaching it to an existing fence.  that being said an existing fence can make a nice backer for an ear.

The important thing I think I learned is that one of thee can be made in a very short time and over-thinking (always my strong suit) is not required.

 

 

Good to know, thanks.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

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3 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Yes according to this link.

Dang, I missed that! Thanks man! Thats a big incentive to me being able to use it with both. Probably order the track and sander now, get that setup put together and Ill be set to go when I decide to get a shooting plane.

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